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    #16
    http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/in...mmins-database NEED ENGINE INFO, THIS LINK NOT AVAILABLE?
    1989 3818 "MARECHIARO"
    Upper Chesapeake Bay

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      #17
      54.87.251.120 type or paste that number into your browser it will take you to the old site, if it’s still available. The info you are seeking may be in the Hino Database.
      David
      Sidney, B.C.
      MV Cassiopeia V
      1990 4588
      twin 250 hp Hinos
      8kw Westerbeke

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        #18
        More info
        • Topic Author
        • Visitor
        The Oil Filter Drain Bolt

        A common question is how to prevent the big oily mess when changing the element type filters.

        There is a large bolt that by loosening allows oil to drain from the filter and into the oil pan. You may have to loosen the vent at the top of the filter to let the oil run.

        These pics were provided to me by member Jim Serrill.

        Thanks, Jim.

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        Hino Database29 Mar 2007 17:00 #4

        • bilgeboy
        • Topic Author
        • Visitor
        Here are some key components to the fuel filter change. Pictured is the Hino 4 cylinder, but all diesels have these features.

        A- Air bleed
        B- Diesel filter
        C- Engine mounted water separator
        D- Diesel feed
        E- Hand pump
        F- Diesel return

        The filter is a nice and easy spin-on.
        You then have to purge the air out. I know some guys fill the filter with diesel before mounting, but I don't. Either way, you still have to purge.
        The Hand pump unscrews counter-clockwise, pops up, and then you pump diesel as you depress it again. Loosen the bleed screw, and then pump until diesel comes out. It will take a while. You may get a diesel froth for a few pumps, but work through that, tighten the hand pump down and retighten the bleeder.

        It make take a few turns of the key to start. Diesels don't like air in the system, but they will get there.

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        Hino Database30 Mar 2007 11:10 #5

        • bilgeboy
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        Here is a pic of the coolant drain on the Hino 4 cylinder. There is also a drain on the bottom of the heat exchanger / "manicooler." That one is much more obvious.

        The black arrow points at the bolt. As you back this bolt out, coolant will flow from the nipple underneath. If you completely remove it...coolant will come out of there, too.

        Some folks at the BOC have had a tough time with this bolt, and have found the hex shape stripped. I haven't had this problem, but I guess I would recommend using a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point.

        You can see the alternator at the top of the pic. The drain is integral to the alternator bracket.

        Mike

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        Hino Database19 Apr 2007 20:34 #6

        • bilgeboy
        • Topic Author
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        This is an easy job, but if you don’t know how to do it, you might put it off until it becomes a problem.

        General rule of thumb is to change impellers every year. For recreational use, if you remove them during the winter, you can get at least 2 seasons out of impellers of decent quality (like Jabsco). They are constructed to be very rugged. If there are no cracks in the rubber when you bend the fins, and all fin blades are intact, you can consider squeezing another season out of them. I replace every 2 years now…but I remove in the winter.

        The impellers are located at the fore of the engine. They are gear driven on the 4 cylinder Hinos. Some 6 cylinder raw water pump impellers are belt driven (the Kashiyama).

        This is the pump for the 4 cylinder turbo’d. If you can do this, you can do any.

        1- remove the 6 flat-head machine screws from the face plate.
        2- The face plate easily pulls free of the impeller housing. Scrape any old gasket off cover and mating surface.
        3- The impeller is pulled off the splined drive shaft (I use a pair of vise-grips and pull at the hub)
        4- The impeller spins counter clockwise when you are looking at it. You can bend the finds or rotate in a counter-clockwise direction when you push the new impeller in place. It should slide relatively easily onto the splined shaft. Some folks advocate using dish soap on the impeller to ease installation, and that’s probably O.K. Avoid using any petroleum lubricants on the impeller.
        5- Use a new paper gasket supplied with the impeller, and replace cover. If machine screws appear worn, replace them. They are cheap and readily available.
        6- I find it useful to remove the feed line from the pump and make sure it is full of water before firing up the engine, effectively “priming” the hose. It ensures your impeller will not spin dry for too long. Running an impeller dry severely shortens it’s life expectancy. See attached pics. That is a dead impeller because I forgot to open the seacock.


        Other considerations.

        Inspect the housing for wear. The first time I changed my impellers, I had just removed the impeller, and I was examining the housing. While just looking at the housing,, the “cam” slid from the 9 o’clock position to the bottom of the housing. I didn’t even know what a cam was at the time. I thought that “hump” was integral to the housing. But the cam is the brains of the impeller housing. Its held in place by a machine screw at the 9 o’clock position on the exterior of the pump housing. I would inspect this screw every impeller change. If you have never changed the cam, and your boat is older than 10 years, put a new cam in, along with a new machine screw. They are susceptible to electrolytic damage.

        I used to use some silicone sealant on the cover, but I don’t any more. If there is excess silicone, this is the kind of junk that makes its way to the heat exchanger, and plugs it up. The paper gaskets are good enough to make a nice seal. They swell when wet, and exclude other moisture from seeping through.

        The cover plate may show wear on the inside. You can flip the covers “inside out” when the inner face is worn rough, and they will work well. Mine are currently both flipped, and working well.

        Mike

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        Hino Database24 Apr 2007 03:08 #7

        • bilgeboy
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        WO4D, WO4CT/TI Fuel Injector Removal Sequence

        You will need:
        3/8" drive with 10,12,14mm sockets, 17mm open end, plugs for return fuel rail (fine thread screw, etc.)

        The return fuel rail will drip diesel, and should be addressed prior to removing any injectors.
        The return rail sits at the top of the injectors as a single tube that connects all injectors via fuel fittings, and is connected to the return line via a short piece of flexible rubber tube just fore of 1st injector (at the front of the engine, at the belt side). Also better to clean around all injectors prior to removal.

        1- Finger pressure to pinch fuel rail clip, slide toward clip at other end (off fuel rail) and finger pressure to remove rubber from metal. Now plug rubber end to prevent spillage.
        2- 14mm socket will loosen return rail nuts at the top of all injectors, careful not to lose washers on top and bottom of fuel rail at each injector. Put rail in safe place.
        3- 12mm socket will loosen injector retaining nuts ( 2 per injector ) on the injector adaptor, lock washers underneath each one.
        4- Injector adaptor lifts off injector ( seems to only now mobilize the bottom washers from the fuel rail, and they will try to hide somewhere in the bilge )
        5- 17mm open end to loosen fuel supply connections at right angles on injector, back all the way off ( these do not drip )
        6- You may now need the 10mm to loosen supply pipe retaining clips to help mobilize the fuel supply lines off the injectors.
        7- Injectors theoretically will now pop out, may help to put open end on machined edges up top to work injector back and forth while lifting up. ( there is a large copper gasket at the bottom of each injector, if it does not come out with injector, make a note of which cylinder already has it in place for reinstallation )
        8- Carefully cover hole in block with clean rag.


        Mike

        PS - the best prices I have found on injector nozzles are these guys...

        http://www.adiesel.com/
        Associated Diesel, Inc.
        66 Freeport St. Boston, Massachusetts 02122
        617-436-2847
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        Hino Database29 Apr 2007 20:49 #8

        • bilgeboy
        • Topic Author
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        This covers the 4 cylinder adjustment, but the 6 cylinder is completely analogous.

        The valve cover is secured with 6 - 12 mm bolts. Picture is shown.

        The flywheel cover is located at about the 10 o’clock position on the flywheel (transmission end of the engine). It is an “L” shaped rubber boot, pulls out with finger pressure. This exposes the flywheel with timing marks. There is a picture of the rubber boot attached to the post.

        The four cylinder engine has timing marks of “1/4” and “2/3” spaced 180 degrees apart. The crankshaft doesn’t know which cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) and firing on a 4 stroke engine, since it makes 2 revolutions each time a cylinder fires. When the #1 cylinder is at TDC, at the beginning of the power-stroke, the # 4 cylinder is also at TDC, having just expelled the spent exhaust gasses, and ready to intake fresh air. Since both pistons are at TDC, and the crankshaft can’t tell which is on the power-stroke (firing), they are both marked.

        The crank is turned counter-clockwise when viewed from the flywheel, clockwise if you are looking at the belt. I grab the belt manually and turn the crank via the belt. You can put a large wrench on the crank nut at the pulley as well.

        The line between the 1 and 4 ( or the 2 and 3 ) serves as the alignment mark for both cylinders. This mark aligns with the bottom of the viewing port (not the very bottom of the “L”, rather the bottom that is over the timing marks).

        When you have the 1/4 mark aligned, you have to figure out which cylinder is firing. This is pretty easy. You just grab the rocker arms for both cylinders (number 1 is on the belt side and number 4 is on the flywheel side), and give them an up and down shake. If the intake valve and the exhaust valve rocker arms both shake just a little bit, this cylinder is firing. These rocker arms are loose, which indicates that both valves are closed, and this only happens when the cylinder is firing. You may see this described as “valves rocking on cylinder 1.” Then you know cylinder 1 piston is at TDC and firing.

        The intake rocker arm is on the belt side of the engine, and the exhaust rocker arm is on the fly wheel side for each cylinder.

        The adjustment is made by loosening the lock nut (14 mm) and turning the flat-head adjustment screw. This is very easily demonstrated in the picture attached. A feeler gauge is inserted as demonstrated, and when you have the screw properly adjusted, the lock nut is re-tightened.

        Rotate the crank to the 2/3 mark, repeat above. Rotate to the 1/4 and repeat. When you get to the 2/3 again, and make the adjustment, you are finished.

        The valve cover gasket is reusable.

        Mike

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        Hino Database10 May 2007 05:25 #9

        • bilgeboy
        • Topic Author
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        Hino Head Retorqueing Procedure

        This is an easy job. 4 cylinder shown.

        It does require a decent torque wrench, and a special tool to reach the head bolts that are tucked underneath the rocker-arm shaft.

        1- Remove the valve cover (AKA rocker-arm cover). This is secured with six 12mm bolts on the 4 cylinder.
        2- There are 4 rows of 14mm 12-point bolts that secure the head. The black lines in the first attached picture show the location of each row. 2 rows are outside the valve cover, and 2 rows are concealed beneath the valve cover.
        3- The 5th row, on the exhaust manifold side, are called “additional head bolts”, and have a different torque rating of 33-36 ft*lbs.
        4- Locate the “number 1” head bolt as demonstrated in the attached pic from the manual. Back this bolt out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. It is re-tightened to a torque of 95-101 ft*lbs of torque.
        5- Follow the same procedure for the rest of the head bolts in sequence.
        6- The “additional head bolts” are then retorqued, in sequence, as shown in the manual.
        7- Replace the valve cover (Have you adjusted the valves?…)





        Notes on using a lengthening extension on a torque wrench…

        The special tool as demonstrated was generously loaned to me by Smitty477. Since the tool adds another 1” to the length of the torque wrench, this has to be accounted for. Regular socket drive extensions do not need to be compensated for.

        There is a very simple formula that is used to adjust torque settings, although it looks a bit complicated if you don’t use math formulas regularly. The additional length of the tool effectively adds more torque, so the wrench must be dialed down a bit.

        I have rewritten this formula as supplied with the wrench to save me from going and getting the photocopy. It is not brain surgery, though.

        T(E) = T(W) ((L+E) / L)

        Where
        T(E) is the effective torque at the bolt
        T(W) is the torque setting on the wrench
        L is the length of the wrench from the drive to middle of the handle
        E is the length of the extension.

        The tool demonstrated has a length of 1”, and my torque wrench is 17” long.

        We can re-write (L+E) / L as ( 17 + 1 ) / 17 or 18/17 = 1.06

        If we want a T(E) of 100 ft*lbs…

        The formula is rewritten as 100 = T(W) * 1.06 or 100 / 1.06 = T(W)

        The division tells us to set the wrench at 94.3 ft*lbs or torque.

        Much easier than it looks.


        Mike

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        Hino Database27 May 2007 04:32 #10

        • bilgeboy
        • Topic Author
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        Fuel Injection Timing

        Injection timing – check and adjust – every 500 hours

        It is easy to check the injection timing on your Hino, but you have to know where to look.

        The timing mark is on the injection pump. This tells you when the pump begins to inject fuel into the #1 cylinder. The injection process starts BEFORE the piston hits Top Dead Center, so injection timing is always labeled in degrees “BTDC.” Advanced timing has a higher number of degrees BTDC, and delayed timing has a lesser number of degrees BTDC.

        Now we need to go back to the flywheel to know what the number 1 cylinder is up to. The rubber boot covering the timing wheel is shown in the valve adjustment post. Remember that for a 4 stroke engine, the crank shaft turns twice for every one revolution of the injection pump, so you might have to turn the flywheel around a full revolution for the timing mark to show up at the pump.

        Degree marks on the flywheel are easily found before the 1/4 mark on the flywheel.

        From the Database…

        Injector Pump Bosch-A...........Timing, ref. cylinder 1...............Injector opening pressure
        WO4D.................................14 degrees before TDC...............3,129 psi
        WO4C-T..............................17................. .........................3,129 psi
        WO4C-TI.............................17................. .........................3,129 psi

        The attached photo shows the injection pump timing mark viewing port. This is covered with a conspicuously large hex nut, and the timing mark should align with the notch at the 3 O’clock position as shown in the photo.

        Adjusting the timing will be covered if I ever need to do it…

        Mike

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        Hino Database01 Jul 2007 22:09 #11

        I haven't seen any mention of Fram oil filters or Sierra impellers, which are just as good as Jabsco but are a dollar cheaper AND come with the correct gaskets. The Jabsco impeller only comes with an O ring, which is useless. You have to buy the gasket separately. Anyway;
        Fram oil filter-PH8A (which Schucks has on sale all the time for about $3.50)
        Sierra impeller-#18-3077 $29.69 at Harbor Marine in Everett w/capts. card
        "Safe Boating is No Accident"
        Everett Sail and Power Squadron
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        Hino Database22 Jan 2008 13:00 #12

        I have not been able to locate engine or cooler zincs on my 1989 Hino EH700TI. Are there any zincs? Are they needed for salt water use?

        Carl
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        Hino Database22 Jan 2008 13:45 #13

        You post was not made in the right place but to answer your question, there are no zincs in a Hino. The design isolates the metals with large O rings. Check your transmission coolers and your generator for zincs tho.
        Started boating 1965
        Bayliners owned: 26 Victoria, 28 Bounty, 32, 38, and 47 since 1996
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        Hino Database05 Jul 2008 12:22 #14

        How do I determine for sure the type of Hino Engines I have in my 3288? Is it labelled somewhere?
        Thanks In Advance,
        Wade
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        Hino Database18 Nov 2008 09:16 #15

        • Keys
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        Hello Bilgeboy,
        I have just experienced a similar problem with my water pump. My concern is where did the cast off rubber from the vanes go? When you did yours, did you pull the forward plate off the manicooler to check for debris blockage there?
        Thanks,
        Keys
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        Hino Database14 Apr 2011 14:53 #16

        Amsoil makes a dual remote filter kit that will fit the Hino 150 if it has the spin on filter.
        You have to get the adapter that fits the existing mount.
        The following user(s) said Thank You: Ben Anderson
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        Hino Database18 Jul 2011 15:28 #17

        If you need to replace a drive plate Bill @ NHD recommends you do so with model 4R3 manufactured by R&D as it has phenolic dampeners in lieu of spring. They keep in stock.

        If Transmission sounds like full of marbles at low RPM but works great it's most likely the drive plate.
        BigJimB
        "Lady B"
        Huntington Harbor
        1989 4550
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        Hino Database04 Oct 2011 08:43 #18

        • cacea
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        Hi. For those who have difficulty getting the belt reference TR22495 gates have the alternative of Optibelt bx-47. In my area tr gates belt is hard to find TR22495
        3288 150h.p.
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        Hino Database07 Feb 2015 17:04 #19

        Hino part number for the manicooler filler S1658-51060

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        1988 Bayliner 3288
        Hino 135s / Water Cooled Turbos
        Texas Gulf Coast
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        Hino Database03 Apr 2015 11:01 #20

        bilgeboy wrote: The Oil Filter Drain Bolt

        A common question is how to prevent the big oily mess when changing the element type filters.

        There is a large bolt that by loosening allows oil to drain from the filter and into the oil pan. You may have to loosen the vent at the top of the filter to let the oil run.

        These pics were provided to me by member Jim Serrill.

        Thanks, Jim.

        Attached files


        Just a note it has been discussed multiple times but never posted here that I am aware of. The bolt shown in these pics are for the 110 for the 150 the drain bolt is to the left of the oil filter as shown and it is a vertical bolt 14mm if I remember right. It can be screwed out at least a half inch and if you have the spin on replaceable filters from Baldwin, NAPA etc. like I use, a hole will need to be punched in the top of the filter so I will drain.
        Last Edit: by NWCruiser. Report to moderator

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        Hino Database23 Apr 2015 18:00 #21

        Good stuff! But one additional consideration: the drain plug in the oil filter base is steel and the base itself is aluminum. Do not over-tighten when replacing the plug or you can end up stripping the threads in the base housing. That requires a re-machining of the base to accept a new plug.
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        Hino Database23 Aug 2015 18:05 #22

        • diveguy
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        Terkar wrote: Hi - Has anyone been successful at cross- referencing the Hino oil filter element type # 15607-1490 with a aftermarket element other than the Mercury #, that does not lead anywhere (Mercury dealers have no references to this #). $30.00 (Canadian) for a filter element from Hino dealer seems outrageous !

        Thanks Terry
        I've been using Fleetguard filters from Cummins.

        This thread has some helpful info.
        www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...4d-oil-filter#601802
        "Martini's Law"
        1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
        Nova Scotia, Canada
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        Hino Database20 Dec 2016 14:34 #23

        • wes
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        Hi All,

        There are no valve clearances on the database for Hino 310s. Could someone please assist with these?

        Thanks

        Wes
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        Hino Database20 Dec 2016 15:55 #24

        'There are no valve clearances on the database for Hino 310s'

        intake - 0.35mm or 0.0138"
        exhaust - 0.50mm or 0.0197"
        Northport NY
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        Hino Database27 Apr 2017 06:37 #25

        Any comparable parts for the Baldwin BF1204?
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        David
        Sidney, B.C.
        MV Cassiopeia V
        1990 4588
        twin 250 hp Hinos
        8kw Westerbeke

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          #19
          Last page from the old database
          Hino Database 27 Apr 2017 07:40 #26

          www.fuelfilter-crossreference.com/convert/BALDWIN/BF1204

          You can also walk into a NAPA store and they will cross it to a NAPA gold filter- may take a few days to get in dependent upon the exact NAPA store you visit.
          The following user(s) said Thank You: 1thefox1
          Northport NY
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          Hino Database23 May 2017 08:00 #27

          Does anyone have part#'s and suggested supplier for Hino EH700 engine hoses? I see belts listed in the database, but not hoses.

          UPDATE: looking at the parts diagram and list here:https://www.marinepartssupply.com/book/18/632/
          There appear to be 4 hoses per engine...drawing part#'s 9, 36, 50, and 51.

          Drawing P/N Description Qty Price
          50 SZ92034116 HOSE,WATER 2 46.66 (NHD 38.97)
          36 SZ92034044 HOSE,WATER 2 28.50 (NHD out of stock)
          9 SZ92034135 HOSE,WATER 2 52.34 (NHD 35.54)
          51 SZ92034042 HOSE,WATER 2 13.07 (NHD 8.50...update: out of stock)
          SubTotal 281.14

          Does this list look correct? By any chance, is there a less expensive supplier for these?

          UPDATE 2: Called North Harbor Diesel (877-293-5551) that I've seen mentioned a lot, and they had a little better prices (but no stock of one hose)....prices listed above. Total price between both places (getting 2 each of the 3 hoses that NHD had in stock, and 2 each of the 1 hose only Marine Parts Supply had) is 223.02, before shipping. I'm of course assuming those are the only 4 hoses per engine.

          TIA,
          Dave
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          Hino Database19 Jun 2017 16:21 #28

          I didn't want to post these part numbers until I installed the hoses on an engine.

          For the 90 degree and straight hose pieces from the manicooler to the engine block, you can get enough pieces for both engines (2 90's and 2 straight) from Dayco Hose part# E72257 (approx. $32 at time of purchase)
          For the oil cooler to block hose (short, slight bend) you can 2 pieces (1 per engine) from Dayco Hose part# B70797 (approx. $8 at time of purchase)

          I cut to fit with a straight razor. I've run in the slip to temp in gear with no issues. If there are any issues with long runs this summer, I will report back. Reference pictures on where to cut hoses attached.




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          The following user(s) said Thank You: davesisk, fastinated, Jcain1738, kev_rm, mikecain@bellsouth.net
          . . .It places the lotion in the Basket. . .and that basket happens to be in a 1987 Bayliner 3870 w/ Hino 175's
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          Hino Database25 Sep 2017 14:21 #29

          hi I have a 4 cylinder hino that has a delay in the transmission also bad vibration at idle in gear believe its the W04D engine, pulled shaft and prop, prop shop says no big problem with shaft and or prop. Any help would be great and info on damper plate as well
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          Hino Database26 Sep 2017 18:54 #30

          Hi speckaroo,

          I replaced both my damper plates with ones from Centa. Mike from Harbor Marine was very helpful in making sure I had the right parts to do the job. The rattle is gone...Yeah!

          The Centa plates don't have springs
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          Hino Database29 Sep 2017 16:30 #31

          I just changed the fuel filters on my 1991 4588 today. The Database says a NAPA 3393 is the one to use. I can positively confirm that that filter is much too small. The correct fuel filter for a WO6-TI is a NAPA 3398. There is another filter, of the same diameter, the 3343, but it is too long and the injector pump mounting bracket keeps it from aligning, so it won't screw on.
          1991 Bayliner 4588
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          David
          Sidney, B.C.
          MV Cassiopeia V
          1990 4588
          twin 250 hp Hinos
          8kw Westerbeke

          Comment


            #20
            Hino workshop manual

            W06DTI, W06DTI-II

            w06dti.pdf
            Irony
            Bayliner 4588
            Portsmouth, NH

            Comment


              #21
              The radiator cap for a wo6-ti requires a 7lb pressure cap. The Stant Model number is 10228, SKU is 17110016. Advanced Auto p/n is 10228
              1991 4588
              SE Michigan

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