EH700 175 N/A rebuild break in-gctid361088

[CaptUgly]

tundra_honky wrote:
So i'm nearly complete with a rebuild of my EH700. new bearings, new sleeves, and rings. The head only has 1000 hours on it, so i cleaned and lapped the valves.

. My injectors were SHOT only after 400 hours, NO water, or particulates using 10 micron Racors. I suspect the low sulfur fuels. .

I have a diesel pick-up truck that was make before ultra-low sulfer fuel. I mix about 1/2 ounce of synthetic 2 stroke smokeless motor oil per gallon of fuel. I can't remember the brand but I buy it at WalMart & it is about $7 per gallon. I know of a few people that run an ounce per gallon but then you can smell it. Definately improves the life of the injectors!

Thanks for all the info Tundra, Great reference for others - looking forward to details on the cost of parts. Cheers, Doug S.

Thank you smitty477 for your post.

Very appreciated.

Sure

I'll have to add up the receipts, and repost. All my parts i received from North Harbor diesel. Parts are difficult since the Japan quake so i was able to receive my parts in four weeks, but 9-10 is what i was told.

Each sleeve in a HINO is stamped a letter for a specific size. Slight differences between bores. So you have to pull the head to get those, letters. The maintenance manual shows the stamps on the side of the head. Mine where stamped on the face of the block. So i was only able to see the letter size once the head was pulled. Thats a bumper for folks wanting to plan a head.

Replacing rings, pistons, rod bearings and selves can be done in place, with only pulling the oil pan. I replaced #6 on my port engine 4 years ago, with out having to raise the engine. However on the stud engine i was having oil pressure problems so i pulled the main bearings as well, along with an aft oil leak i suspected was rear main. So in this case i pulled the train, flywheel, and flywheel housing, starter and lifted the engine. Pulled the oils pan. Lots of room. One Guy on each side did the trick.

Since this rebuild was more complicated than the replacing a single cylinder. I had some pointers from Earl. Thank you Earl.

with cleaning and inspecting parts. Doing this in 30-40 degree weather. Took us about 40 hours. But that was cleaning parts, painting, dismantling the head, and cleaning and lapping valves.

Today it sounds GREAT. Very peppy. I think it had been sick for quite a while. The thing that is most impressive is, how strong it was. Even being a sick, worn engine. Amazing engines, really.

I have rebuilt probably 4 V-8s, several small motors, and this was by the the easiest. The cold and in place was challenging.

A tip on the main bearings. You have to roll them in and roll them out. Being very carful each time. I use a plastic tool, that glass companies use to scrape window. Sort of long and thing. I used that to get the bearing started out. then i was able to get a small hold using the plastic tool on the keeper on the bearing. While my buddy rolled the engine, i was swearing and grunting. All in all 3-4 hours to pull replace all the main bearings in place. We did loosen (not remove) all the bearing nuts to allow a little give. the hardest bearing to replace was near the timing gear! Because of the front bearing housing, didn't give.

By removing the flywheel housing did give us lots more room, and it did allow us to remove the oil pan. It took more time, but in the end, i think it saved time.

Difficult i would give 6.5 out of 10. cramped yes, doable YES! Very worth it, since i don't have an EARL in Alaska.

I'll post the total costs, in a few days

Say Tundra, Can you tell us where you got the re-build parts from and what they cost? A few details on how you did the re-build in-place (lift back-end to drop oil pan, etc.). Any lessons learned for others to follow? Congrats on what appears to be a largely successful project! - Regards, Doug S.

[Jim_Gandee]

Thanks Smitty. I knew youd know

QUOTE=smitty477;664230]"What does the manufacturer say about break in? There must be published information from Hino."

4.1 During the first 5 hours of operation do not exceed an engine speed of 2,500 rpm

4.2 From 5 to 30 hours of operation, do not run at full throttle speed for more than 5 minutes.

4.3 During the first 30 hours , it is recommended that the engine is neither idled nor operated at a single rpm setting for extended periods.

Hope this helps[/QUOTE]

So just finished the rebuild on my EH700. It runs GREAT!

Thank you every one for the suggestions Looks like i need to get out and do some running.

Oil pressure is sitting at 50 at an idle. It warmed up nicely. Still smokey, and still spills a little sheen on the water. It will be interesting to see if that gets better after the break in.

So just finished the rebuild on my EH700. It runs GREAT!

Thank you every one for the suggestions Looks like i need to get out and do some running.

Oil pressure is sitting at 50 at an idle. It warmed up nicely. Still smoky, and still spills a little sheen on the water. It will be interesting to see if that gets better after the break in.

[smitty477]

"What does the manufacturer say about break in? There must be published information from Hino."

4.1 During the first 5 hours of operation do not exceed an engine speed of 2,500 rpm

4.2 From 5 to 30 hours of operation, do not run at full throttle speed for more than 5 minutes.

4.3 During the first 30 hours , it is recommended that the engine is neither idled nor operated at a single rpm setting for extended periods.

Hope this helps

[Guest]

When I did my rebuild on my two WO6TI's I was told to use straight 30 weight oil and very the load and speed ebery couple of minutes. After about 2 hours of running go ahead and take to WOT and back down do not run at the same RPM for more than 5 minutes at a time until 10 hours on the motors. I ran the staight 30 weight oil for close to 40 jours and then switched to multi weight oil.

If you are concerned about leaving break in oil in

that that long just change the filter after 5 hours.

[Jim_Gandee]

What does the manufacturer say about break in? There must be published information from Hino.

[mmichellich]

Dont run same RPM for more than five minutes. Dont run WOT until you get a few hours on it. Watch temp and oil pressure continuously for first few hours.

So i'm nearly complete with a rebuild of my EH700. new bearings, new sleeves, and rings. The head only has 1000 hours on it, so i cleaned and lapped the valves.

I the oil pressure would drop when when running hard. My injectors were SHOT only after 400 hours, NO water, or particulates using 10 micron Racors. I suspect the low sulfur fuels. Anyway, i was getting fuel past the cylinders; symptom glowing stainless riser above 2000 rpm, increase oil consumption, difficult starting, smoking, and refused to come past 3400 rpm.

Bad Injectors, and shot bearings! the PO had replaced #6 cylinder after failing to replace those cast risers after 11 years! No wonder. Anyway there was more salt water damage than i think he was willing to admit to. So i did the short rebuild, in the boat.

Anyone have the break in suggestions for a HINO rebuild? I have been successful many times on Chevy v-8's. but its my first diesel rebuild.