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Replacing Combo with Stackable Washer and Dryer-gctid360387

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  • Woodsong
    replied
    This is a great improvement for liveaboards- thanks for posting all the pictures and details. One thing is for sure- the unvented combo units are useless as a dryer!

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    ksanders wrote:
    Very nice!

    I'm curious, do you know if the ventless dryer can be made into a vented model, or do you have to replace the whole unit?

    Thanks...Kevin
    Not a clue, went with a vented unit because I have heard they work the best. Most people I spoke to said to stay away from non vented units.

    Leave a comment:


  • ksanders
    replied
    Papa Charlie wrote:
    Here is the washer/dryer room compartment closed up in the guest room. The box is easily removed with 4 screws for servicing. I have a stain that will match the teak below perfectly. Now that everything is in place I will finish that off.
    Very nice!

    I'm curious, do you know if the ventless dryer can be made into a vented model, or do you have to replace the whole unit?

    Thanks...Kevin

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    Here is the washer/dryer room compartment closed up in the guest room. The box is easily removed with 4 screws for servicing. I have a stain that will match the teak below perfectly. Now that everything is in place I will finish that off.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718400=31340-DSCN0025.JPG[/img]

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    Here are some pictures of the vent system. It is all out of 4" Schedule 20 PVC except for when it comes into the washer/dryer compartment where it transitions into metal.Picture one is the vent making the jog in the bunk overhead compartment.Picture two is the 90 degree turn it makes under the PH dashPicture three is the connection at the PH outdoor wall to PortPicture four you can see I used a standard dryer louvered vent. Several others on the dock have used them for years with no issues while cruising. You can also see in the lower right of the picture the original 3 inch vent that Bayliner installed. The hose was plastic covered wire and from what I found crimped almost closed at everyone one of the 4-90 degree turns. The new run has 2-90's and 2-45's and is 4".

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718399=31336-Vent 1.JPG[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718399=31337-Vent 2.JPG[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718399=31338-Vent 3.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718399=31339-Vent 4.JPG[/img]

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    ksanders wrote:
    I like what you've done. Some trim around the front, and enclose the back and you'll be good to go.

    Question though... How did you route the dryer vent outside the boat. I'm thinking that it goes up into the area behind the dash then out the side of the pilothouse. Is that correct?
    Kevin,

    Thanks, I have already built the enclosure I posted pictures of it on this thread but admittedly it has been some time. I wanted to show the back of the installation and the vent line.

    As for the route on the vent line, if you are facing the front of the washer/dryer it goes up at the farthest right or forward aft point of the compartment. On the 45 in what would normally be the bunk room there is a compartment that goes the entire width of the compartment. The vent goes up into there, using two 45 degree 4" PVC connectors and a short length of Schedule 20 PVC pipe in between them. Then straight up into the console of the pilothouse as high as I could without interfering with the wiring. Then a 90 degree and out of the side of the pilothouse superstructure. I made the connection at the wall with a PVC coupling which I glued in place with 5200 and a couple of screws through the side walls of the coupling into the wheelhouse wall. I was care to ensure that I angled the run between the 90 and the wall downward so that any water that should find it way in there would be flushed back out. Each and every connection was glued and sealed with metal duct tape except for the 90 and the long run to the outside. That way I can lift the 90 off of the riser and remove it for access to the forward area up under the PH dash and for ease of clean out. As you can see from the picture previously, the back of the dry and the hose is accessible with the panel removed which is why I made it to slide out of the way for service access without having to remove the machines. I will try to take some pictures of the run and post them.

    Leave a comment:


  • ksanders
    replied
    Papa Charlie wrote:
    Well finally got the Admirals washer and dryer installed today. Thanks very much to Mike for helping me get them into position. Spacing turned out to be perfect. I had just enough room for the 4" vent hose behind the dryer. When I mounted the dryer brackets onto the washer I made sure that it was as far forward as I could. Essentially it ended up aligning the front of the two machines. I could have mounted it back almost an inch which would have given it a little sleeker look but you really can't tell if you didn't see it in both positions.We are running our first test load through the unit so far so good. I only have to trim out the opening now but that I can do easily. The Admiral is happy and that is what counts.There will not be any doors over the units. the ventilation is important to the operation and they units are not bad looking. Plus the doors when open have a tendency to make the hallway even narrower and confining. So the extra space to get around when the unit is operating is good too.

    http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

    http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

    http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]
    I like what you've done. Some trim around the front, and enclose the back and you'll be good to go.Question though... How did you route the dryer vent outside the boat. I'm thinking that it goes up into the area behind the dash then out the side of the pilothouse. Is that correct?

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    Well finally got the Admirals washer and dryer installed today. Thanks very much to Mike for helping me get them into position. Spacing turned out to be perfect. I had just enough room for the 4" vent hose behind the dryer. When I mounted the dryer brackets onto the washer I made sure that it was as far forward as I could. Essentially it ended up aligning the front of the two machines. I could have mounted it back almost an inch which would have given it a little sleeker look but you really can't tell if you didn't see it in both positions.We are running our first test load through the unit so far so good. I only have to trim out the opening now but that I can do easily. The Admiral is happy and that is what counts.There will not be any doors over the units. the ventilation is important to the operation and they units are not bad looking. Plus the doors when open have a tendency to make the hallway even narrower and confining. So the extra space to get around when the unit is operating is good too.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718385=31333-DSCN0003.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718385=31334-DSCN0004.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/718385=31335-DSCN0005.jpg[/img]

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    So I am finally in a position to continue my project.

    Today, I took a piece of teak from the boat and the new teak down to Dalys Paint in Bellevue to have them mix up a stain that will enable me to match the new teak to the old. It has been pointed out to me that Bayliner stained all their teak. So I left matching the color to the pros. They had to do some special mix to get it right but it came out perfect. At least based on the sample I had them do.

    So with the right stain, I went ahead and glued the upper box enclosure together that will fill the area in the Guest stateroom and shortened the padded head board that went the entire length of the wall over the bed. Took a little bit to get the vinyl to look right but it turned out pretty good if I may say. I measured the area and shortened it based on my measurement. I hope that I took enough off.

    I will update with some pictures tomorrow when I have more light. Right now it is up on the flybridge clamped together and the glue is drying.

    Will fit it in tomorrow. Then a little sanding and the stain.

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    cosmo777 wrote:
    Pat,

    I assume you're going to put some large strapping or other type of anchoring on these units once installed to secure them in place?

    Since it would seem to be more top heavy than before, I could see a beam sea tossing them around without having them locked down in place.
    The compartment is not much bigger than the units themselves. The dryer will be locked to the washer and the washer is the heavier of the two.

    I will employ and additional restraint to prevent worse case scenarios from occuring. My plan is to use metal strapping through a hose that will go over the top and secured to the floor on both sides. It will not be visible unless you remove service cabinet upper section in the Guest room.

    I forgot to put that step on my list.

    Leave a comment:


  • cosmo777
    replied
    Pat,

    I assume you're going to put some large strapping or other type of anchoring on these units once installed to secure them in place?

    Since it would seem to be more top heavy than before, I could see a beam sea tossing them around without having them locked down in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    Well I am making some progress on my project. I have fitted all the teak panels and closed up some of the opening.What I have left to do:1) Glue up the panels and stain them to match the existing teak2) Move some wiring runs3) Do a little clean-up around the opening in the hallway4) Shorten the vent soffit and refit the mounting boards to the wall and ceiling5) Shorten the head board and refit it to the wall6) Install wash and dryer including mounts to keep them together7) Install the new smooth wall aluminum vent lineRe-install the removable cabinet in the Guest room (this cabinet is removable for servicing)9) Build the door enclosure in the hallway. (Still looking for another door assembly like the one I pulled out. I figured a way to combine two assemblies and make a very nice enclosure front.Well here are some update pictures of the enclosure that I have been working on. Fitting these panels to the irregular walls is time consuming, but I am happy with the results.Guest Room cabinet enclosure with panels taped to ensure proper fit.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/665216=25539-11 Cabinet Panel Fitting.JPG[/img]Interior of cabinet, looking at the Guest Room cabinet portion.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/665216=25540-12 Cabinet Panel Fitting Interior (1).jpg[/img]Interior of cabinet, looking at the back of the Master closet and the enclosure that was the desk in the Master.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/665216=25541-13 Cabinet Panel Fitting Interior (2).JPG[/img]

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    Well I opened up the compartment by enlarging the hallway opening and removing a section of wall betweent he Guest Room and the Master Walk in. It was a little more difficult than I had anticipated, but then it is a boat.I started by hanging plastic up in the Guest Room, Hallway and Master Closet area to try and contain the saw dust that I was going to be throwing everywhere. Glad I did. It still found its way around but the majority of it was contained.The first cut is the worse. Do not want to make a mistake on that cut. I started in the hallway as that was my reference point. I had a bit of a time laying out the cut lines but the extra care paid off. The wall separating the Master and Guest rooms was fiberglassed to the hallway wall. I did not aniticipate that. It made getting the wall out a little more difficult. Sadly the hallway flourescent light cover suffered a blow and well will need replacing.Also picked up the lumber I purchased from Martin's too. I had one of their employees Todd Nelson who also make cabinets on the side cut the plywood up to my specifications along with ripping a 1x6x65 piece of Teak lumber. Total so far I have spend $290 on plywood, $120 on lumber and $50 on a cut charge. I had figured around $500 as a rough estimate, not including the replacement doors for the compartment in the hallway. I fiigure it will hit about $600 before I am done, again not including the hallway Teak doors and framing. I plan to have those built and do it down the road. Not critical at this time and can be installed easily once the job is done.Here are some updated pictures of the project. The first shot is of the hallway opening. The wall was pretty thick and was a double wall on the half that was in the Master.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664273=25436-7 Hallway Compartment View of Cut Out.JPG[/img]The next shot is from the Guest room. You can see some clamps holding the interior surface material. It started to come loose so I brushed some glue and clamped it in place.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664273=25437-8 Guest Room View of Cut Out.JPG[/img]Here is a close up from the Guest room. You can see the back of the Master closet.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664273=25438-9 Guest Room View of Cut Out Closeup.jpg[/img]The last picture is from the Master Stateroom side in the walk in closet.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664273=25439-10 Master Closet View of Cut Out.JPG[/img]

    Leave a comment:


  • Woodsong
    replied
    VERY cool upgrade. We like our combo unit but it sure as heck does NOT dry well at ALL! I am curious though...I don't have the same dryer vent set up for our combo unit? I know of no vent going out so it must be a ventless unit? I need to check it out further.

    Keep us posted- definitely would be worth doing to have a true w/d like the stackable one you are putting in.

    Leave a comment:


  • Papa_Charlie
    replied
    Here are some shots from the Guest Stateroom after I have removed a lot of the duct enclosure and the enclosure counter top. The tape is so that I can do the layout without marking up the walls. Want to make sure that everything squares up inside the stateroom and in the hallway so that the Teak molding will line up properly.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/663367=25320-4 Guest Room Layout Ready.jpg[/img]Here is a closeup of the enclosure. Lots of things to work around and cut out before I can start the installation of the enclosure extensions.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/663367=25321-5 Guest Room Layout Ready Closeup.jpg[/img]In the hallway I have been laying out the cut out area. The existing hole is not exactly perfect so I had to start from one point and do the entire layout. It took most of the night to get the layout perfect and everything square. We are going to leave it exposed for a while and have a frame and set of doors made by a shop. Will have to do some shopping around for that work. But it can be done at any time in the future.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/663367=25322-6 Hallway Compartment Layout Ready.jpg[/img]I ordered my Teak plywood Yesterday. Oh My God! Teak has really gone up in price since last time I ordered any. $290 for one sheet of 1/2 marine grade with a 5/64 veneer on both sides. I am going to have the shop I ordered it at do some of the primary cuts to get the pieces down to a workable size. I will have to do some final fitting on the boat as nothing is square. I also need a miter on two edges to make the corner for the box extension in the Guest Stateroom.Got my cut plan done on for the sheet of Teak plywood last night. Going by Martins Lumber in Everett today to go over it with them. I need to find a shop that can make a accurate miter cut on two pieces or maybe I will use a piece of 1/2 by 1/2 solid teak to fill the corner. That way I can round the edge a little and soften it.Man I miss my shop when doing projects like this. Oh well.So far I am pleased with the way things are coming out. I am going to enlarge the dryer vent line from 3" plastic to 4". That will require a larger hole through the ceiling in the opposite corner of the room up into the pilothouse dash compartment on the Port side and out the side. The hydraunic heater for the pilothouse and defroster sits right in that area so it will take some real care not to take out a fluid line.My concern is the bends, flexable hose gets too kinked and greatly restricts the air flow. I have four 90 degree turns that I have to make in the run. I may use rigid long radius 90's to reduce the restriction at the two middle bend. I need a tight 90 for the final turn and a special 90 at the dryer. I purchased a restricted space 90 for the dryer end, like they use in RV's for that one, no choice. The upper cabinet extension in the Guest Stateroom will be removable so I will have access to clean out the vent line if needed but would like to ensure a good run. May need to talk with some appliance people that know their stuff.Will keep you all posted as I go.

    Leave a comment:

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