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    Hino 175 Air Lock

    Hi - 1989 3818 with Hino 175 was cruising for about 2 hours and port engine all of a sudden lost power - will not restart - both engines were Not overheating and 3/4 fuel in each - I think it is an air lock (this happened once before, same engine). Are there any other ideas out there? Where is the fuel filter located that is right on the engine? I am trying my best to work my way around the boat and learn, new owner.

    Thanks, Theresa

    #2
    On engine fuel filter assembly for Hino EH700n...
    https://www.marinepartssupply.com/book/18/624/

    "Are there any other ideas out there?"
    - pinched flexible fuel line
    - air leak in fuel lines or filter assy
    - vent to fuel tank plugged causing vaccum in fuel system
    - fuel pickup in tank plugged with crud

    Some things you can do easily and quickly that may help find or resolve the problem:
    You can temporarily run both engines off of one tank by switching the fuel selector valves to rule out the tank and line related items up to the fuel manifold.
    You can check to see if the vent is plugged by carefully and temporarily removing the fuel fill cap to see if the vaccum is corrected.
    You can test on engine fuel priming pump the priming to see if there is a lack of preesure or air in system.
    You can look in the Racor (if you have them) to see if there is water, crud or air in teh system.
    Northport NY

    Comment


    • DevOcean89
      DevOcean89 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank You - I will check as you have mentioned.

    #3
    Welcome! What do you do to restart the engine? I understand it’s not immediate, but is it a matter of waiting an hour? A very common fuel system setup is to have a remote filter for each engine mounted near the fuel valve panel. That’s on the forward engine room bulkhead between the engines. On our 1988 3818 the filters, Racor brand, are mounted below the valves. There’s also are two filters on the engine. One is a fuel/water separator and the other is a fuel filter.
    The next thing concerns the level of filtering at each point, and here there’s a lot of opinions and choices. As I understand the options, there are three choices of filtering, identified in microns. 30, 10 and 2. The lower the number, the smaller the holes. Now comes the fun part. which one to use and where. Always install them in decreasing order, 30 on the bulkhead, 10 or 2 on the engine. There are all sorts of opinions and excellent reasoning behind each one. Some of the options should be based on the purity of the fuel where you are.
    I’m on Puget Sound and purity isn’t an issue. How fast you use your fuel is a factor because life forms can grow in diesel and clog filters quickly. We’ve used about 800 gallons of fuel so far this year, that’s less than normal due to my health. I choose to run 2 microns at both filters. The Racors get clogged before I expect sometimes and that engine looses power, and that’s the risk. Having to change the filter in less than ideal conditions. I change the Racors about every 100 hours of if we are leaving on a trip with some of the 30 mile open crossings around here. I keep new filters handy as well as a container of diesel and blue paper towels, so a quick change of the one filter and we are good to go. The engine filters look the same as when we bought the boat four years ago.
    One publication I’ve downloaded from https://www.marinepartssupply.com/engines/hino is the service manual and I keep a link to the partsbook. If you have any questions about your 3818, or are looking for ideas like hinging the salon hatch to the engine room and putting a shock lift on it, the BOC is a great resource.
    pete
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    MMSI 367770440

    Comment


    • DevOcean89
      DevOcean89 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank You - I will check everything you have noted - I am also in the PNW - Blaine area.

    #4
    Devocean, while the issue may be air in the lines a plugged fuel filter is highly likely since the engine was running normally at the time of stoppage. I suggest you replace your main fuel filter, probably a Racor as they were OEM, which will be mounted on the forward engine compartment bulkhead just in front of the engines. Attached is a pic showing the location of the secondary, on engine, fuel filter and the water separator. If you have never changed the secondary filter it should also be changed. Once the filters have been changed you will need to bleed the system of air by cracking the bleed screw on top of the “on engine” filter canister then operate the manual fuel pump until you have fuel being pumped out of the bleed screw. After changing both filters it may take several hundred pumps of the manual plunger pump Before you see a steady stream of fuel from the bleeder screw. Don’t forget to close the bleeder screw. To operate the manual pump unscrew the plunger using the knurled knob. The spring loaded plunger should pop up. The stroke of the plunger is only a few inches which is why so many strokes are required. After bleeding the lines remember to tighten the plunger in the down position. Click image for larger version

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    Jim Gandee
    1989 3888
    Hino 175's
    Fire Escape
    [email protected]
    Alamitos Bay, SoCal

    Comment


    • DevOcean89
      DevOcean89 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you so much and the pictures sure help a ton - very much appreciated. I will give it a try for sure!

    #5
    Also, if you have the OEM Racor filters check the filter inlet by removing the flush plastic cap (see pic) to verify FOD has not blocked the fuel flow here. Click image for larger version

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    Jim Gandee
    1989 3888
    Hino 175's
    Fire Escape
    [email protected]
    Alamitos Bay, SoCal

    Comment


    • DevOcean89
      DevOcean89 commented
      Editing a comment
      Again, thank You and for the pictures as well. Theresa (DevOcean89)

    #6
    Please let us know what you find.
    Jim Gandee
    1989 3888
    Hino 175's
    Fire Escape
    [email protected]
    Alamitos Bay, SoCal

    Comment


    • Pcpete
      Pcpete commented
      Editing a comment
      Plus one.

    #7
    Originally posted by Jim_Gandee View Post
    Please let us know what you find.
    Old thread but I just had the same issue - turns out the bleeder screw on one of the prefilters was cracked and one of the caps for the line that's not used on the other. they were cracked for a while as you can see the discoloration. I "stole" them from the generator water separator filter to get it going (they are metal on that one) - what drove me nuts was that there was fuel in the tanks but i was getting air in the system while running but was ok to bleed them from the manual pump, it seems to only happen when there was more demand on the engine and the need for more flow (I guess it would have just enough for idle or a bit above). I thought the breather must be plugged on one of the tanks or maybe a line has a crack in it so I hooked up an oil change pump to the tank with transparent lines and fuel came out without any bubbles - put the filter IN line to the output of the pump and when I ran it fuel started to come out from the bleeder screw on the first filter, replaced that and then I figured might as well try the port filter just to see, and sure enough one of the plugs was spraying (like a tiny stream from a pinhole), They were both cracked and in all honesty either someone tighten them for no real reason (since they seal on an o-ring you don't really need to go to town on those) and maybe/possibly that plastic breaks down in time.

    hope this helps someone, was quite frustrating experience.

    I was able to source the bleeder screws from an autoparts store, a BMW coolant bleeder screw, $3. The cap I did not find yet so I'll probably just make one out of aluminum (gen filter has an open port now)

    Question for all here: does anyone know the purpose of the fuel-water separator that's mounted on the engine? has no element in it and seems redundant - I'm wondering if it's worth keeping or it can be deleted, I have a list of safety issues I need to address for insurance and one of them is to eliminate all plastic filters (which this is plastic so...)

    Comment


      #8
      The fuel water separator you mention has a float in it that indicates water in the fuel. If the float rises to the top it cuts off fuel to the engine preventing water entering the injection pump and injectors. I would keep it in place as it's original equipment.

      James
      1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
      Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
      Lowrance Electronics!
      Boating on Georgian Bay & the North Channel
      Completed the Great Loop 07/25/19
      AGLCA #8340
      MTOA# 7469

      Comment

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