original electric heating ?-gctid348735

[Tex]

I have a question for those who live aboard, tell me please does anybody use only original electric heaters ?we have temperature about -15C outside. Are original heaters enough for live aboard on 3888 ?

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/651546=24423-19389178.jpg[/img]

[Guest]

Neither of my boats had original equipment heaters; I've only used the radiant oil filled and Vornado air heaters.

[The_Other_Gary]

The original electric heaters in my 3988 are 750 watts each of 3 heaters.

750 watts is adequate for each of the two cabins.

Additionally, I have a 400 watt in the main head, and an additional 600/900 watt in the main cabin I use as necessary

and 600 watts in the lazarette and 2 x 250 watt engine block heaters because I have a winter water system for the heads and Galley.

My boat is shrinkwrapped and I have installed Reflectrix panels on all windows to reduce heat loss.

I have also moved all interior plumbing to the centerline to avoid frozen pipes next to the hull sides.

I have no idea what an unwrapped and uninsulated boat would need.

All wattages stated are at 120 volt, divide in half for 240v

[smitty477]

"I have a question for those who live aboard, tell me please does anybody use only original electric heaters ?

we have temperature about -15C outside. Are original heaters enough for live aboard on 3888 ? "

-15C is plus +5F - so the answer is unfortuneatly no they are not enough.

Hope this helps

[Tex]

So it would be wise to consider the additional heater in main cabin and saloon ?

[smitty477]

"So it would be wise to consider the additional heater in main cabin and saloon ?"

Yes - and I would guess that you are moored in fairly cold water and are not wrapping the boat to any extent so the cabins will need extra heat as well.

The ability to keep the baths warm as well as the cabins will be greatly affected by both the wind at hand and the water temps.

I would suggest you are prepared for the worst with these temps.

FWIW - the 39's are quite different from the 38 series Bayliners.

Hope this helps

[Guest]

Ensure all the wiring is sufficient to support the load. That includes the power cords and the dockside connectors. Everything on the power path must be rated for the load and must be in good condition.

With the heaters running, measure the voltage on the heater. It should be within 10% of the dockside power voltage with no load being drawn by the boat. If not, find the problem and fix the problem.

Electric resistance heaters will be running continuously at those cold temperatures.

Instead of -15┬░C / 5┬░F move to a warmer climate, like southern Florida, with winter low temperatures of 21┬░C / 70┬░F. No heat required...

[Papa_Charlie]

We lived aboard our 32 and now our 45. The electric heaters are used to offset the cost of running the diesel. We run the diesel heater when temps really fall. Because it is hydronic it also keeps the moisture down in the cabinets and engine room where the hoses run through which also helps in the living area.

The electric heaters just don't have enough to do it all. We also have a problem with blowing breakers with them running and trying to run anything else in the boat. But the electric heat is cheaper to run than the diesel.

There are newer units out there that are more efficient and will provide better heat and circulation while slightly reducing the energy consumed. Also recommend you keep them clean. We vacuum them about every month or two. Amazing how much dust they collect.

PS. Just a thought. Are you on a 60 hz system over there or 50 hz system? If 50 then you are not getting full capacity out of your heaters, assuming that they are US factory originals.

[WhiteRockMike]

Papa Charlie wrote:


PS. Just a thought. Are you on a 60 hz system over there or 50 hz system? If 50 then you are not getting full capacity out of your heaters, assuming that they are US factory originals.

hz or hertz is just the alternating current frequency - 50 vs 60hz won't have any effect on a resistive load heater...

[Tex]

At our marina, we have unlimited use of electricity and water, everything is included in price. (mooring, electricity, water)

The annual payment is 3300eu or 4350$ . So the cheapest solution is electric heating.

We have two 25A 220V/50hz electrical outlets, but so far I use only one, because there is no need for more.

This weekend I will take an additional heating 2000watt for cabin, and 2000watt for saloon,hope that this will be enough ?

thanks for help

[Papa_Charlie]

WhiteRockMike wrote:
hz or hertz is just the alternating current frequency - 50 vs 60hz won't have any effect on a resistive load heater...

You don't think the fan motor will be effected by the frequency? Frequency has an effect on most electrical systems.

[ksanders]

Papa Charlie wrote:
There are newer units out there that are more efficient and will provide better heat and circulation while slightly reducing the energy consumed.PS.

If you are considering new heaters I'd try one first brfore you replace them all.

All electric heaters are 100% efficient. The only difference you might find is that a certain heater might have a stronger fan, so it blows the heat around more.

[WhiteRockMike]

Papa Charlie wrote:
You don't think the fan motor will be effected by the frequency? Frequency has an effect on most electrical systems.

Good point. You'll still get the same heat out of the resistive load element, but the fan will turn 17% slower.

[Guest]

The resistance heaters on the 4788 are not sufficient for Northern Cal. The wall units are available from Home Depot and are available in different wattage. The problem with increasing the wattage in the wall unit is the breaker size has to increased to handle the load. I actually upgraded the breakers and replaced the units with higher wattage. The Home depot versions can be set for different output by changing the jumpers inside the heater. They are nice little heaters but even after the change they still weren't sufficient for the salon or middle state room. The forward master worked ok but not great. I ended up using a oil type base board heater in the master which worked ok. The salon was too big an area for even the resistance wall heater and a oil baseboard heater to maintain a comfortable tee shirt temperature. The reverse cycle air conditioners were more than enough to bring things to a comfortable level which than could be maintained for a while by the resistance heating. The lack of insulation and large window area are hard to heat. To manage all the electrical load I had 2 -30 amp cords and a 50 amp to enable me to run everything. electric bills were running about $260 per month. I am currently using a 240V 50 amp service which gives me enough power to run everything at once.

[Guest]

Scary wrote:
The problem with increasing the wattage in the wall unit is the breaker size has to increased to handle the load. I actually upgraded the breakers and replaced the units with higher wattage.

I am currently using a 240V 50 amp service which gives me enough power to run everything at once.

Everything on the power path needs to be sized to handle the entire load passing through those components.