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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    I would definitely do everything possible to restore the gelcoat prior to repainting!!

    Some boats, like somesailors don't have gelcoat on the house.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Thanks again guys!!!

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  • SomeSailor
    replied
    Many of these two-part coatings are even harder than gelcoat. I'm only painting the wheelhouse and areas above the gunnels. Gelcoat from there down is in great shape.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    I know that your OEM gel coat is some 30 years old. However, I would not paint a hull unless it was a last ditch effort.

    I'd try whatever it required to restore the gel coat first.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    replied
    Are you sure you want to re-paint?

    Unless you are keen to change the color, you could accomplish a lot with compounding/polishing. Check out Tod's (nehallania's) work - he is the BOC god of detailing.

    Just a thought.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    if You can spray go with endura.

    i did 2 boats and 3 motorhomes.excellent paint:greedy_dollars:

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  • boatworkfl
    replied
    yachtman wrote:
    Sterling liear polyurethane is hard to beat but is expensive. It will last 20 years with no waxing or polishing just washing. It is very slippery to walk on though.

    I understand that the awlgrip linear stuff is right up there too but also is costly
    One of our well experienced surveyors in AK told me that Sterling paint is less sensitive to temp. and humidity than awlgrip.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Endura Paint is better than Interlux sprays way easier and is tough as nails and 1000's of colors or even color match

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  • SomeSailor
    replied
    Well put Tommy. I was gonna mention the youtube videos. They're pretty good. Just do a search for 'Roll and Tip'

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Apex,

    I certainly wouldn't take on painting my new boat prior to getting her seaworthy and shipshape!

    Just don't be afraid to tackle new challenges if YOU feel they are within your abilities. I have done what I told you you could do. Lotsa folks here are telling you not to try.

    Do your own due diligence, watch the U-tube videos (weren't available when i painted my first boat), read the spec sheets. Decide if you want a show piece, or a boat that looks good and if ya scratch it, you know how to fix it?

    These are actually tools we are talking about, boats are a tool that allows us to get on the water and enjoy ourselves. If you want or need or covet a shrine, there are a lot of cheaper ways to get one than owning a boat.

    Sorry, rant over, mostly . . .

    fair winds,

    thom

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    After reading all that, maybe this first year out ill save that money for all the repairs ill encounter... If anyones at Wabasha Marina, feel free to come on over and offer advice- Ill be the guy cussing up a storm when the bellows, impeller, and who knows what else breaks... oh and when i stop cussing youll here the faint voice of my wife sayin i told you this wasnt a good idea hahaha- fingers crossed and happy boating everyone! Its right around the corner!!!

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  • yachtman
    replied
    SomeSailor wrote:
    I'll have to bug for that discount myself Tommy. I bought this old trawler and she's gonna need everything topside painted. I'll roll & tip it I suppose, but the surveyor had a great idea about doing the shiny parts with an HVLP touch up gun. I can spray very well, but have never tried rolling and tipping.
    Sterling liear polyurethane is hard to beat but is expensive. It will last 20 years with no waxing or polishing just washing. It is very slippery to walk on though.

    I understand that the awlgrip linear stuff is right up there too but also is costly

    Leave a comment:


  • SomeSailor
    replied
    boatommy wrote:
    Next time you want to paint it let me know. My cost for Sterling linear poly is under $200 per gallon for the paint and the same for the hardener at fisheries supply in seattle. I'll be glad to get you my price plus 10% and shipping.

    Looks like you are paying about twice what you could be paying.
    I'll have to bug for that discount myself Tommy. I bought this old trawler and she's gonna need everything topside painted. I'll roll & tip it I suppose, but the surveyor had a great idea about doing the shiny parts with an HVLP touch up gun. I can spray very well, but have never tried rolling and tipping.

    Leave a comment:


  • boatworkfl
    replied
    If you do not need the linier type paint, then you may want to consider the Interlux perfection 2 part polyurethane paint, I prefer spraying; rolling and tipping is an art in it's self, takes an expensive brush and some practice. If using the linier paint follow the directions to the letter.

    A friend of mine in Seward, AK had someone paint his topsides with Sterling paint, the 2 helpers working for the operator appeared to forget the catalyst or not enough, took 2 weeks to air dry, there are places you can use your thumb nail and scrape it off; the end result was much worse than you could imagine, it all needs to come off, all 3 coats, yes they rolled it 3 times trying to get it right. Much more to it than this comment. Do not let this comment discourage you!

    You could provide the materials and prep the boat, then hire an auto body painter to spray it.

    Leave a comment:


  • yachtman
    replied
    boatommy wrote:
    Next time you want to paint it let me know. My cost for Sterling linear poly is under $200 per gallon for the paint and the same for the hardener at fisheries supply in seattle. I'll be glad to get you my price plus 10% and shipping.

    Looks like you are paying about twice what you could be paying.
    I didn't pay $700 that is just what retail price is. I got it for less than half that but most people don't get the kind of discount I can get

    Leave a comment:

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