Marine engine oil or Automotive engine oil...?-gctid355275

[Guest]

I am getting ready to replace my engine oil on my Volvo Penta, but my friend tells me he has been putting regular automotive oil in his vessel engine with the oil filter. he claims it is the same and even cheaper than marine oil and oil filter..

now what do you guys out there think.... is it worth the risk... and is it eventually cheaper....? has anyone done this..?

all coments are welcome...:worth

Thanks.

[Mocoondo]

Do you have a marine engine or an automobile engine in your boat?

[Guest]

always add one quart of high zinc oil to your 10 w 30 . comp cams makes one of the best ..jerry

[Guest]

The older GM V8s used straight 30 weight. USE Multivis 10/40 and the valve train will rattle. The engine will really clank if you use the modern, ultra thin synthetics. So, know what you engine is designed to run on. My New GM V-8 uses 5-30. Any thicker and I risk damaging the engine. (especially when cold)

[boatworkfl]

Use the same weight oil that Volvo Penta suggests, automotive will work just fine. I use 10w40 pennzoil in my 350, and in my previous 351 Ford 285 hp engines. If you want heavier then 15w40.

[tonyiiiafl]

Hectors_blackpearl wrote:
I am getting ready to replace my engine oil on my Volvo Penta, but my friend tells me he has been putting regular automotive oil in his vessel engine with the oil filter. he claims it is the same and even cheaper than marine oil and oil filter..

now what do you guys out there think.... is it worth the risk... and is it eventually cheaper....? has anyone done this..?

all coments are welcome...:worth

Thanks.

Yes, automotive oil will work fine, especially Shell Rotella. However, since my marine engine is under constant load, I prefer a heavier oil. I use the Quicksilver (Mercury) 25W40 wt. I get it on sale at West Marine for $19.99/gallon. Since I was a heavy truck/diesel owner, I prefer the heavier oil for engines that are constantly working hard. Again, just what works for me. I have never had an oil related engine failure. Filter?? A good auto filter (I use a Fram) works super! ((The engine will not know the difference on the filter, trust me, I have asked it many times!))

[Guest]

Agreed on the oils- not so much on the filters. I'm not a fan of Fram unless it's their TG line (tough guard). I recommend Baldwin, Wix/Napa Gold, or Fleetguard. if you get a chance, cut open a regular Prange Fram filter, then cut open one of the filters mentioned above- the differences will be very clear.

ZDDP (zinc)- agreed if the engine gas a flat tappet valvetrain.....if the engine has a roller valve train, there's really no need.

[MidnightSun]

Ooops
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[MidnightSun]

Hectors_blackpearl wrote:
I am getting ready to replace my engine oil on my Volvo Penta, but my friend tells me he has been putting regular automotive oil in his vessel engine with the oil filter. he claims it is the same and even cheaper than marine oil and oil filter..

now what do you guys out there think.... is it worth the risk... and is it eventually cheaper....? has anyone done this..?

all coments are welcome...:worth

Thanks.

Yes they are different, at least the label is. I seriously do not think we would be able to afford "Marine" oil if it was specially formulated for just that purpose. Just not enough marine applications around if you compare to automotive. Personally I use mobile 1 synthetic 15W 50. As for oil filter, same thing, relabelled. Now there are different qualities of filters out there and most rumours on the web tend to have us stay away from Fram although I use them on my cars and have also used them on Midnight Sun in fact that is what is on there right now. Have also used Mallory and Mobile 1 oil filters and even a Canadian Tire one here and there. There are many brands to choose from and anyone will do the job if service regularly and diligently.

Fram filter may not be the best but exactly how good can a filter or does a filter need to be? All it is is cardboard for the cheapies and synthetic fibres for the expensive ones in a can with a bypass valve (read washer and spring). Most of the Fram bashing comes from an article where someone cut several open and found the Fram to be of lesser quality however, this was done over a decade ago. Fram is most likely the most sold filter in the world yet we do not see major recalls and failing engines due to poor product do we? I cannot for the life of me see they would not have improved their product from decades back. Kinda reminds me of why people say Bayliners suck, rumours from the past.

[tonyiiiafl]

Fram filter may not be the best but exactly how good can a filter or does a filter need to be? All it is is cardboard for the cheapies and synthetic fibres for the expensive ones in a can with a bypass valve (read washer and spring). Most of the Fram bashing comes from an article where someone cut several open and found the Fram to be of lesser quality however, this was done over a decade ago. Fram is most likely the most sold filter in the world yet we do not see major recalls and failing engines due to poor product do we? I cannot for the life of me see they would not have improved their product from decades back. Kinda reminds me of why people say Bayliners suck, rumours from the past.[/QUOTE]

Also, Fram is the leading manufacturer for MANY brands of filters. As ong as they are serviced regularly, they will work fine.

I also used Baldwin on my rucks and boats. They met the rigid Detroit Diesel 2 stroke warranty requirements and the Series 60's also. They have exceeded manufacturers requirements for gasoline engines.

I guess what is being said is there are no real "GREAT" filters and no real "BAD" filters. It is how you use them and service them. For most of us, changing the oil and filter once a season is more than enough, given the average hours placed on the engines.

[Guest]

I also agree with adding ZDDP, a quick and easy way is to add one bottle of good old STP Oil Treatment. STP has been around for a long, long time, and I've never heard of any issues regarding it's use. Just a can of STP added to the oil will more than replace the amount of zddp that's missing in the new oils.

[smitty477]

FWIW - If you search for information on oils and oil additives you will find many interesting facts that may surprise you (or not).

Try and stay away from the manufacturers reviews or 'planted' articles. Here are just a couple as example....

http://www.skepdic.com/slick50.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/engine-...p-content.html

Hope this helps

[Guest]

Yes, there is a difference between marine oil blend and automotive oil blend. If you ever get the chance to tour a blending plant it is very interesting. They can change any additive blend in seconds and in most plants do the blending right on the loading dock.

If you look at the ratings like CG ..CF you will see that marine oil has an added water inhibitor (I just can't remember the code right now).

The base oil is the same. How much difference this makes I can't say. Really the only way to find out is to see if it effects engine life and then it's too late. Engine don't heal themselves.

The marine engine engineering specified a certain oil for a reason and they definitely know more than some backyard mechanic.

I find it interesting that people will spend $$$$$ on fuel in a boat the gets a mile to the gallon then try to save $10 bucks on an oil change or $5 bucks on a filtermaybe it makes no difference in most cases but does it make any sense to take the chance?

[cwiert]

lolar3288 wrote:


I find it interesting that people will spend $$$$$ on fuel in a boat the gets a mile to the gallon then try to save $10 bucks on an oil change or $5 bucks on a filtermaybe it makes no difference in most cases but does it make any sense to take the chance?

:ditto i get the merc stuff or the quicksilver stuff. we're only talking a few bucks difference.

[Guest]

cwiert wrote:
:ditto i get the merc stuff or the quicksilver stuff. we're only talking a few bucks difference.

Serria (SP?) sells a marine oil as well.