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Launching from a roller trailer.

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  • Metrodriver
    commented on 's reply
    For the forseeable future we will be blue skies, calm winds sailors. Don't want to see the entire crew hanging over the railing being green in the face...

  • Metrodriver
    commented on 's reply
    Don't like white caps, especially not in my coffee. In my line of work that happens once in a while. Aka turbulence...

  • builderdude
    replied
    I bring up the 15 mph wind thing because Metro and his significant other are new to boating. Like I mentioned earlier, ya don’t want to traumatize the wife or she’ll never want to go out again.

    Leave a comment:


  • dktool
    replied
    Originally posted by builderdude View Post

    Yea, you’ll likely be heading for protected anchorage’s when the wind forecast indicates anything near 15 mph.
    You don’t want to traumatize the wife.
    🫤don’t ask…
    15 mph ?? I would never get out of the harbor where I am if I followed that rule.

    Plus physics law dictates that white caps need right at 18 mph to form. How boring it would be without white caps.

    Leave a comment:


  • builderdude
    replied
    Originally posted by Metrodriver View Post
    I don't have a windlass. For my length of boat the chain, rope and all connecting hardware should hold up to 45 kts of wind (according to some tables I have seen). I think by that time my boat will be the weakest link. Foredeck cleat, side cleat and most of all .... the crew.
    Yea, you’ll likely be heading for protected anchorage’s when the wind forecast indicates anything near 15 mph.
    You don’t want to traumatize the wife.
    🫤don’t ask…

    Leave a comment:


  • Metrodriver
    replied
    I don't have a windlass. For my length of boat the chain, rope and all connecting hardware should hold up to 45 kts of wind (according to some tables I have seen). I think by that time my boat will be the weakest link. Foredeck cleat, side cleat and most of all .... the crew.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    When done properly, the line to chain splice will work with a windlass! I guess my brain is wired to always think “windlass “.

    At the point at which the chain connects to the anchor shank, you will want to use a properly rated SS Swivel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Metrodriver
    replied
    Yes, with a SS eye in it. Like your pictures!

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  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    Originally posted by Metrodriver View Post
    Thanks Rick!
    You are welcome!

    I just made the first splice for the eye in my anchor line. Not too difficult indeed.

    That would be an anchor line to chain splice.... yes/no?.





    Three strand eye splice.


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  • Metrodriver
    replied
    Thanks Rick! I just made the first splice for the eye in my anchor line. Not too difficult indeed.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    Here's my recap in addition to the good advice so far!

    As said, always leave the Winch Tower safety chain hooked to the bow eye until the boat is in the water.
    Leave some tension on the winch line. You may need to get your feet wet, or, find a safe way to climb out onto the trailer tongue.

    Always deploy your fenders buoys before backing down the launch ramp.
    Leave enough line so that you can pull the boat off of the trailer and towards the dock.



    Or, do I as I prefer, and use the same line to not only support the fenders, but to also double as my dock lines.
    One line per fender buoy takes care of both!

    Never.... repeat... never use a bow line.
    Use midship and stern lines ONLY.
    If you hand off a bow line, before you know it, the bow is against the dock, and the stern will become kicked out away from the dock (as shown in my image).
    Whereas with a midship and a stern line, the boat is easily pulled in parallel fashion towards the dock.
    The Eye-Splice is easy to do with 3 strand line.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Fender bumper w direct eye splice 2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	730.1 KB ID:	649723



    Learn to tie off to the dock cleats properly.
    Make several figure 8 loops and make the last loop the securing loop by twisting it prior to hooking it onto the dock cleat. Make 2 twists if you want to.
    Be sure to coil the remain line so that it does not become a trip hazard.




    Tie off with enough cleat loops to be safe, yet not too many in the event that you need to un-tie quickly.
    The method shown here is unnecessary.


    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Waterdowg
    replied
    Like most other I back in just to the point were I almost cover the over the tires. From there I start the engine and warm it up. Then I put it forward gear to remove the tension on the chain. (I find that once the back starts to float the chain get tight). Once the chain is off, I go back to neutral and my dock hand releases the winch and is able to lower the boat in he water. My boat only goes back about 2 feet. Then he releases the cable, I put it in reverse and back off the trailer.
    now to load I put the trailer in the depth to the top of the fenders and drive the boat on to the trailer. I power up to the rollers and my deck attaches the chain and cable then snugs it up. Shut everything down on the boat, raise the out drive and pull it out of the water and attache my transom straps.

    This process works well for me and the rank is not steep. The ramp is also narrow with boats moored behind the ramp. It allows for slow and and easy launch with lots of control.

    Leave a comment:


  • Metrodriver
    commented on 's reply
    Was there another guy? I am too easily distracted I guess.
    On further review, yes, you are right. I think some of them might have had a crashing headache the next day. I am surprised none of them went overboard.

  • dktool
    replied
    Meanwhile the guy in the rear port seat is repeatedly banging his head on the gunwale...."I never get the bikini girl"

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  • Metrodriver
    commented on 's reply
    But without his shades.... mister cool no more.
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