1988 Dog Ear Clutch

[Streetglide2008]

Hello to everyone. I’m new to this forum. I have some questions hopefully someone can help me with. I have a 1988 Bayliner Capri inboard/outboard Ford 4 cylinder .Omc Cobra. I’ve been told I need a new dog ear clutch. I’ve heard you need a special tool for the job. Where would I purchase this tool? Also, any recommendations to replace other parts while this one is getting done?
Thank you for your time.

[2850Bounty]

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I have a 1988 Bayliner Capri inboard/outboard Ford 4 cylinder .Omc Cobra.
I’ve been told I need a new dog ear clutch.
The Dog Clutch system is a combination of 1 drive gear, 2 driven gears and 1 sliding sleeve
The gear teeth themselves are of a Hypoid design.
The Dog Clutch engagement teeth are dove-tail cut.

The 2 driven gears are free to spin on the propeller shaft.
The sliding sleeve is splined to the propeller shaft and is free to move FWD or AFT.
When the sliding sleeve couples to a driven gear, the force is transferred to the propeller shaft.






I’ve heard you need a special tool for the job. Where would I purchase this tool?
My suggestion:
Unless you have extensive Hypoid gear set-up experience, I would take it to a shop who has a good OMC experienced mechanic, and let them do this for you.

Also, any recommendations to replace other parts while this one is getting done?
Great time to also replace any questionable bearings, and the seals.

[dktool]

I’ve been told I need a new dog ear clutch.

Have you had this diagnosis confirmed by more than one source and if so, are they all EXPERIENCED with the nuances of the OMC Cobra ?

Many times these legs will receive a terminal diagnosis when in reality all many need are a dose of proper medication.
AKA .... adjustment, cable replacement etc..

[Streetglide2008]

Thank y’all for your kind replies. I haven’t had it professionally diagnosed yet. My wife and I bought the boat about 3 weeks ago. The guy who sold it to me said he would have to bump that red cable for it to go forward at times. Said he’s been running it that way for years. We took it to the lake after we bought it and had to do just that “bump the red cable”. It worked good for about 10 “bumps” and then you had to push as hard as you could just to keep it going forward and not popping out of gear. Finally guess the gear, cable or so forth had enough. Had to go in reverse back to the dock. In y’all’s opinion, what do you think it might be?

Thank you 2850Bounty for the diagram.

[dktool]

Start your OMC education here;

http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/

If you are not "mechanical" find someone who is and share the education with them to help you out.

[builderdude]

I’m no OMC expert and I’m unclear as to what “bumping the red cable” means. If it’s the shift cable your having to mess with I’d think a new cable with the correct adjustment may be a good place to start.

[2850Bounty]

Stuart Hastings has become known as an expert with regard to the OMC stern drives.
His instructions regarding how to properly adjust the lower shift cable are very good.
However, there is another method that is goof proof as long as you are able to understand how to perform it.

If interested, read post # 9 in this old thread.

https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...lp-gctid437752

[dktool]

The absolute first linkage reference point of adjustment is that of the "chicken head" (shift rod height in the neutral position)
which can only be verified and adjusted with the lower unit removed from the upper.
This is the start point, all other linkage / cable reference points are down stream function wise of that.
If this is not correct, nothing will be.

Then there's the bell crank and slide which must be free of water / corrosion and move without restriction, which the lower cable must also do.

After all these things are happy then the adjustment process at the shift bracket on the engine begins....

[Streetglide2008]

How do I find out what model my boat is? Any part numbers for upper and lower cables? Also, what service manual or owners manual do y’all recommend?

[Metrodriver]

https://acrobat.adobe.com/link/revie...0-5fff1b5fe817 see if this link works. Boat specific manuals can be downloaded from Bayliner.com

[Streetglide2008]

Thank You so much!!

[Metrodriver]

From reading your posts, it looks like your cables are out of alignment. With the prop in neutral, look at where your throttle is sitting, and how the lever on the esa is sitting where the gear cables attach (the one from the throttle-aka remote shift cable- and the one coming from the drive- aka transom shoft cable. That lever should be straight up, and the 2 switches on the esa should be in their detents. This is assuming the PO did not mess with the shift dog on the bottom of the drive. I stole this picture from one of the guys on this forum but it gives a little idea of how stuff is supposed to look, and the terms used.

[dktool]

Visual appearances mean very little toward proper adjustment and function of this system.
Go by the book.

BTW...the "esa adjustment nut" label on the picture is incorrect.
That is 1 of 2 overstroke cams.

metro...when you try yours in the water you will start your real class on these.

[dktool]

.

[Metrodriver]

I know I will. I think I got that picture from you, and mine looks like that. The shift dog on the drive is set correctly, that got done during the rebuild. Everything else seems to be real close, even on the muffs. Off course the water can change things a bit. We'll find out soon...

[dktool]

Nope not my picture.