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Pertronix kits work very well, caution, do not reverse polarity, if you do it dies, follow the instructions and you will never go back to points again.
Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!
Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
Twin 350 GM power
Located in Seward, AK
Retired marine surveyor
Then understand that when installing the Pertronix conversion kit into a potentially worn distributor, there may be issues re; inconsistent dwell and erratic and/or incorrect spark advance. This is because the kit itself does ZERO to correct any of your existing distributor shaft wobble due to worn bushings, and does ZERO to correct an advancing system that may no longer be delivering the correct advance curve/limit.
The conversion kit only changes the triggering from mechanical contact points to a Hall Effect type triggering unit.
If hell bent on using the kit, at least have your existing distributor run on a Distributor Machine, and by a qualified technician who will fully check it out.
If all is OK (shaft bushings and advancing system for a Marine curve), then the conversion kit will work.
.
Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
There may be better units but I have never had a problem with the pertronixs units and they are certainly much better than points!.
I agree a worn distributer should be repaired or replaced, but not using a pertronixs unit due to a worn distributer is kind of like cutting off your nose to spite your face isn't it?
Fish-a-Palooza wrote:
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There may be better units but I have never had a problem with the pertronixs units and they are certainly much better than points!.
I agree a worn distributer should be repaired or replaced, but not using a pertronixs unit due to a worn distributer is kind of like cutting off your nose to spite your face isn't it?[/FONT][/COLOR]
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Wayne, your points are certainly well taken and I agree.... much better than contact points. Can't argue that at all.
I can't even argue your second point either, except to perhaps suggest these:
1 wrote:
Who's installing these.... an owner, or a qualified Marine Mechanic?
What prompted us to install the Pertronix in the first place?
Was it just points being a hassle to deal with?
Was it a worn distributor shaft causing an erratic dwell?
Was if an advancing system that wasn't offering the performance to be expected?
Did we NOT investigate 4 or 5 any further, and just grab a Pertronix kit thinking that this would solve the problem?
Was owner Joe even aware of 4 or 5, and just grab a Pertronix kit?
What many do not understand, is that we still have a "dwell" to be concerned with.
Dwell for a Hall Effect (such as the Pertronix) and a VR system (such as the Mallory YLM) is controlled by the distance between the magnetic unit and the sensor.
A worn and wobbling shaft may cause an erratic dwell and we haven't even addressed the advancing system yet.
Wayne, I say this from experience having seen and heard the complaints after these guys install the kits without having their distributors testedand/or over-hauled.
Sure.... they get better start-ups and better low speed operation, etc.
I'll say this again.
Install the kit, and you'll have a better triggering system.... no arguement there at all!
Take the distributor in and have it tested/checked.
If found to be bad, have it rebuilt..... (I.E., re-bushed and the curve re-set).
Now you're into it for the cost of the Pertroix kit $$$ and the cost of the over-haul $$$.
What have we saved......... $75 to $100 over the cost of a complete new ignition system that is NOT Hall Effect?
Just say'n!
Just to be clear, these kits do what they are advertised to do.
My opinions against the Pertronix kits are my opinions only..... do what you wish.
.
Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
The one problem I've had lately is finding condensers that are reliable. My daughters ski boat has been plagued with condenser mysteries. I just carry a set of spare points and condenser in the boat. I was thinking of upgrading?? to the Pertronixs set up. What would you suggest as a better system.
I changed out the distributors on our 3270 with new distributors from AAA that had Pertronix units. Worked great and no problems the following 5 years, the advance worked properly. Also put the conversion kit in our 2455 with OMC SB Chevy it also worked great with no problems. I wouldn't hesitate to use again if I had something with point ignition.
Capt. Ron.
"I will not tiptoe through life to arrive safely at death"
"Never Trade Luck For Skill"
1987 3870 - Northern Lights ll
Hino EH700
Westerbeke 8.0
1999 Logic Marine 17' CC/50 Merc.
on Louisiana pool Mississippi River.
Now that Go2Marine is a sponsor, you may even do better with price.
If you want HEI w/ mechanical advance, this unit does the trick at $330.
HEI can also be EST if you like that idea.
Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
Good info. In short, the dwell, while non adjustable, is adequate.
If your engine is running well and you just want to get rid of the points, go for it. If it's running like crap, fix it first, then shift to the pertronix.
The condensor is meant to absorb high frequency transients which appear on the primary side due to the primary circuit opening. Really it's just a high voltage capacitor. I can't really think of a factor which would contribute to the failure of the condensor, other than perhaps a spark not being created in the secondary so that the primary has to absorb the energy which would normally be dissipated through the secondary (IE: Bad wires, bad plug, bad coil etc).
Had a Pertronix system on my current boat that was installed by the previous owner. I had an issue where the engine would lose power after about a 30 minute run..... it was if it "lost" the timing advance. After ruling out fuel and mechanical issues, I went back to conventional ignition. The issue went away. Not sure what went wrong with the unit, but there was a definate issue with the spark advance, or lack there of, after the engine ran for a while. There's alot to be said for points/condensor, IMHO.
Frankly I never leave the dock without them! I've had electronic ignitions in all my boats. 2 pertronix and 2 Hot-sparks and never missed a beat. If you have a Volvo-Penta 4 banger Hot-Spark makes a unit for bosch dizzies. I just installed one my latest boat. I even put one in my old Honda SOHC4 motorcycle. Just make sure your coil is putting out the right currents, volts, and ohms. Depending on what you have you can get a ignitor with flamethrower coil kit for around $100 if you shop around.
Akwalker I think your problem might lie in too much or too little resistence in your coil. It causes the ignitor module to over heat causing exactly your symptoms. Says so right in the instructions.
I agree with bounty, that on the 8 cylinder setups that is alot of magnets to have positioned precisely in such a small wheel. It also leaves a question of the duration of the spark due to the "width" of the magnetic field...something that could provide more power but may require a little additional fuel if on the ragged edge with the AFR.
It would be interesting to mount a full degree wheel and check the accuracy of each firing event to see how accurate it is...up for the challenge Rick?
Overall I have had good experiences with the pertronix setups, especially on my non-choke equipped volvo OHC-4's, the starting is much better.
I have a 86' 140hp / 3.0 merc motor, still running points. The 2.5 4 banger that i replaced in my boat with the 140 had points. I have zero problems with the motor.
Just saying you can buy a awful alot of points for the money of a new dist.
Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !
1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !
'86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !
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