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  • fritzman
    replied
    Yes I have checked out jack plates but all have short travel, started building a system couple years back but has some one due the welding - not set up for aluminum, it came back warped so is sitting in the start over pile.

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  • Don9
    replied
    Hmmm

    IP66 Electric Linear Actuator 12V – (20 in / 400 lbs) | Different Sizes Available | Innovative Motor, Durable Stroke and Water Resistant | for Outdoor, Agriculture, Solar, Home | Model: PA-04-20-400



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  • Don9
    replied
    Originally posted by fritzman View Post
    Don 9 You are right, I have not found a commercial unit on the market , thanks for the aluminum information, since it may be a DYI project.
    Some of the products I saw looked poor quality but they still wanted a couple hundred bucks for them. They wanted over a hundred for a fixed mount that looked weak.

    I did see the cool jack lift systems that looked very good, including on-the-fly hydraulic systems, but those were very expensive and limited vertical travel of 4-7 inches.

    This manual jack plate has 5" vertical travel but I'm sure someone who is a good machinist could make it with much more travel and motorized.

    Click image for larger version

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  • fritzman
    replied
    Picture 0f home made kicker lift on a 2859 that was fore sale.

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  • fritzman
    replied
    Picture 0f home made kicker lift on a 2859 that was fore sale.

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  • fritzman
    replied
    Don 9 You are right, I have not found a commercial unit on the market , thanks for the aluminum information, since it may be a DYI project.

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  • Centerline2
    commented on 's reply
    as Norton_Rider said, starboard... its a polyethylene plastic, like is on the OEM brackets, but about anything will work. you can buy the kicker mount pads, ready to bolt on from many sources.

    one suggestion i will make is.. not all mounting pads have indents for the motor clamp pads to recess into. I would definitely get a forstner bit of the correct size and make some about a 1/4' deep, so if the clamps vibrate loose, you will notice before davy jones gets the motor... which I see Norton' has addressed already..

  • Don9
    commented on 's reply
    Thank You

  • Norton_Rider
    replied
    I used 1/2" starboard on both sides of a stainless mount, so 1" plus the metal thickness. I also routed a couple of circular indentations in the starboard where the outboard clamp pads would go. That way it did not slide around if the clamps loosened up a bit.

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  • Don9
    replied
    I forgot to ask, what's the best material and thickness to use for a motor mount pad?

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  • Don9
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the good info. My swim platform is ~15" above the water surface and the bottom of the boat is another ~15". So if I use a extra long shaft (25") kicker I need to get the top of the motor mount pad down 5" relative to the swim platform top surface. And being I have a cruiser that can exceed 40mph I need to keep the kicker prop well above the water when not in use.

  • Don9
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks Dave. With my L bracket only being 8 inches on each leg a typical bracket (stationary or adjustable) will just fit. A typical motor mount pad top surface will be above the boat side mounting bracket as shown in my first post top image. I measure from the top surface of the motor mount pad in the lowest adjustable position to the bottom of the boat in the location directly in front of where the kicker prop would be, not at the centerline. One thing I was not considering is the setback distance of the kicker prop due to the kicker being attached to the swim platform and how that impacts the performance issues relative to the vertical position of the kicker prop. Maybe getting the cavitation plate exactly at the boat bottom is not as critical when the prop is setback 2-3 feet.

  • Don9
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the info. What material would be a better choice?

  • Centerline2
    replied
    Originally posted by Don9 View Post

    I was looking at 6061 T6 extruded aluminum structural angle equal leg raw stock. I was thinking I could add an extension plate using the same material except in extruded plate form instead of extruded angle. The max leg equal leg angle available is 8"x8"x.5" and I was going to have it cut to 8" so it would be 8x8x8x.5
    the 6061 structural is equal to steel of the same thickness, but the aluminum has much more flex under load than steel. it would be a good choice....

    here is a rough drawing of a bracket I made for a sailboat. it had the same problem that the motor would not lift high enough in a rough sea.... when the motor is down and being used, you have to take what you get, but when its up and not being used its nice to keep it out of the water when the boat is pitching.. the length of the swing arms is the secret, and the small block and tackle handles it easily without having to lean over the rear of the boat to fiddle with a lock latch to get it to lower or lift... the block and tackle will let you adjust it for any height within the entire range of its swing...

    Click image for larger version

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  • FISHIN00
    replied
    Remember the bracket I had on my 1802 Capri? I 'll send you a E-Mail tomorrow with pictures, I believe I still have the measurements. I had it fabricated out of 1/4" sheet aluminum and welded together.
    Are you measuring down from where the projected mount will be or to the centerline? My 5hp Merc was a 20" shaft and cleared the bottom of the hull.

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