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Loose the "boat yard" or marine dealer parts dept and save money.

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    Loose the "boat yard" or marine dealer parts dept and save money.

    First let me say this. Being of a technical background, I have the ability to determine if something non-marine store will work without sacrificing safety...

    I installed a "city water" inlet with all the accessory parts required to have it work correctly.

    Start with the inlet assembly. This has the "marina" hose connector, a about 40 PSI regulator, and a anti reverse (anti siphon to non boaters) in it. This was about $65 at the local marine store. Same make and model at a RV store: $29.
    Hoses: at marine store $3/ foot. At ACE hardware, again same manufacturer $1/ft.
    Stainless hose Clamps: AT Marine store: $4 each. (Size for 1/2 to 7/8 plastic hose) AT Home depot: 10 for $6 (Yes I tested using a magnet)
    Anti reverse valve. This goes in the hose coming from the water pump to the rest of the system. Its job is when you are using marina water, it prevents it from flowing thru the pump into the on-board water tank and overfilling, not to mention possible pump unit damage from reverse flow. I bought one at marine store , $30, made from "heavy duty plastic". It blew apart. I returned it. I found that at Home depot, they sell an anti-reverse
    valve made from BRASS. It had 1/2 pupe hread on the intake and output, so I bought BRASS 1/2 pipe to 1/2 hose fittings. The valve was $11, and the fittings about $3 each. Works fine.

    So what else can we use and save w/o endangering us?
    Serpentine belts for the engine. Merc: $$$way too much. The lady clerk at three guys auto supply used a belt measuring thingy on the factory belt and came out with a belt whioch had almost all the same numbers on it. $30
    Some of the stuff at the marine store is carryed at Campers world or simular businesses. I have gotten kitchen (galley) ware there. Upholstery and curtains atre aklso available there. The campers are now using the 30 amp twistlocks just like the boats are. (5L30 I think is the number.) Shore power cord are cheaper. (And made by the same companies)
    "o" rings, such as the ones used on the water, fuel and pumpout deck fittings. $11 at marine store. 75 cents at True Value hardware.
    "whale hose" for watre systems. This is the red and blue hose which is he water system in cruisers. Howm depot, and Lowes carries most of teh fitings and hoses, at 1/3 the marine stor price, and moreover, the home stores had a better selection and bigger stock....

    Things we don't screw with trying to save a buck or 2. I am a very safety concious person. As well as being a licensed master, I was a safety guy for 10 years at two jobs.
    ANYTHING certified by the Coast Guard or govt for marine usage:
    starters, alternators, carburators (Yes, my boat has one), flame arrestors (air cleaners), fuel hose (Must use USCG rated "A" hoses), anything which can reside in the engine room/bilge. Battery chargers, inverters, etc they are rated as spark supressed. NON CG approved life jackets. Not only illegal to have aboard, buy just how much is your life worth to save a few $$?

    Captharv 2001 2452
    "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

    #2
    Good post.
    Started boating 1955
    Number of boats owned 32
    Bayliners
    2655
    2755
    2850
    3870 presently owned
    Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

    Comment


      #3
      Been There, Doing That!
      Don
      1995 Maxum 2400 SCR LUNA DE MIEL
      1988 Bayliner 2455 (sold)
      1976 Tahiti 16.5 I/O (sold)
      10 ft livingston (lost in fire )
      1987 18ft. Seaswirl cuddy (lost in fire)
      "Is it better to be on a boat thinking about God, or be in church thinking about boating?"

      Comment


        #4
        Great post! I will add that on the electrical stuff such as starters and alternators.....there's always the cheaper option of have a local rebuild shop refurbish them....my experience has been half the cost my shop guarantees the antispark integrity of their rebuild..... plus you retain OEM casings.

        2008 H210SS Four Winns
        Volvo Penta 5.7 GISX
        Prior: 1997 2050SS Bayliner
        Brad / Texas Gulf Coast

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by TX H210 SS View Post
          Great post! I will add that on the electrical stuff such as starters and alternators.....there's always the cheaper option of have a local rebuild shop refurbish them....my experience has been half the cost my shop guarantees the antispark integrity of their rebuild..... plus you retain OEM casings.
          I agree to that. "new?" "marine electricals are outrageously priced. Years ago, Ford starters had a air vent near the brushes. To make it marine, they put an asbestos cloth over the vent and a metal clamp to keep it there. Maybe $.50 worth of parts, but because its used on a boat, the price doubled +.

          A good rebuilding shop will retain the spark arresting add-ons. More so they can test the starters and alternators before and after, thus giving one confidence that it will work when put in, and you are sure it will fit.
          Another thing: They can also rebuild/repair-- Macerator motors, power trip pump motors, and other DC motors. I have had my macerator motor rebuilt and it is like new.
          Captharv 2001 2452
          "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

          Comment


            #6
            Good points. Don’t take it too far like me. I started using eBay parts for the engine like fuel pumps. Crap failed within three months. For engine stuff always buy Mercruiser.

            also whale hoses and connectors cannot be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s only their competitor fitting which is t interchangeable.

            I use the RV store Camper World for most of the boat pumps and drains and other items

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by toy4two View Post
              Good points. Don’t take it too far like me. I started using eBay parts for the engine like fuel pumps. Crap failed within three months. For engine stuff always buy Mercruiser.

              also whale hoses and connectors cannot be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s only their competitor fitting which is t interchangeable.

              I use the RV store Camper World for most of the boat pumps and drains and other items
              I agree somewhat. I fought with a whale hose fitting set under the sink that leaked. Put on new fittings from Home deposit. still leaked. Went to West marine and paid 3 times for the fittings, still leaked. A friend told me that when working with whale hose, do not reuse the hose as it sits. What happens is after years of sitting in the fitting, the "O" ring created a depression in the hose itself. When removed and reset (even in the same fitting) The oring and depression never seal the same. The trick is to cut the hose off at the o rung depression and re-insert. The will allow the ring to seat on virgin hose and it stopped leaking. Even with home deposit fittings.

              Maybe I am old school, but I prefer a hose barb, good quality REAL hose, and a hose clamp. If it leaks, tighten it some more. and, at Home deposit and ace hardware, you can buy fittings to convert the whole system or one part back to real hoses. Try to find a while fitting to fit a "house type" water filter.

              As far as fuel pumps, the one I got thru Amazon from an aftermarket fit right, and works fine, and looks like the original, which is now an on board spare.
              Captharv 2001 2452
              "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

              Comment


                #8
                Don't forget that a Mercruiser V8 is just a Chevy V8, with a just few modifications.
                1995 Bayliner 2452 Mercruiser 5.7L Alpha 1 Gen 2

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes, fishtank it is. However, some mods are not apparent. They make the clearances in a marine engine larger than a car or truck engine. A car may use 150 HP to get to 60, but only use 20-30 HP to stay there. In a boat if it required 150 HP to get to cruising speed, you use 150 HP all the time to stay there. This heats the pistons a lot ,more and they expend, hence, the reason for additional clearances. I have know too many boaters who tried using car and truck engines and/or blocks and had them seize up or throw a rod thru the block
                  I am 72 yrs old and have been boating for over 50 and been employed in electronics for over that. I have found that most times when you try to save money on something made specifically for a use.
                  substituting winds up biting you in the ass and costing more.

                  As said above there are some thinks that you can get at aa Chevy dealer, like pans, timing covers timing chains, etc. which cross over. But not all.

                  Next, C G certified items. The C G tests and certifies: back flame arrestors, starters, alternators, ignition systems, among other things, for their spark arresting abilities. That's why a starter for a boat costs more. DO NOT use car parts here. The life you save is probably your own.
                  Captharv 2001 2452
                  "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I agree that there are a number of opportunities to save money by using non-marine items. Another place to save is on a boat's stereo. If it is installed out of the weather, an automotive stereo will work great: it will usually have more features, and will cost less than a marine stereo.


                    There are also a few pitfalls:
                    • Hardware and plumbing stores usually carry brass plumbing fittings. These are hard to distinguish from bronze. Brass should never be used in salt water plumbing.
                    • Thru hulls have straight thread. Commercially available ball valves have pipe thread. Pipe thread will mate with straight thread, but the thread engagement will be inadequate. Unfortunately many people and even boat manufacturers install pipe thread ball valves on straight thread thru-hulls.
                    • Most commercially available stainless steel items are made from 304 instead of 316 stainless. 304 will corrode.
                    1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
                    2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
                    Anacortes, WA

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Years ago - 350 Chevy Indmar conversion in a Malibu Response - started burping on the water, running out of power, obvious signs of fuel filter plugging up. So I pulled the pump mounted filter and took it into the local marine shop who dicked me around for a long time but finally sold me what looked like the right filter for $60. The threads turned out to be very slightly different and didn't fit so the next morning I drove to the nearest city where there was a Chev dealer. The old boy at the counter saw what I was carrying, turned around, walked into the parts racks and came out carrying the right filter. $30 - so I bought two. Back to the lake, put it on and the boat briefly ran good, then back to puking and farting. Phoned the Malibu dealer who said "did you replace the inline filter by the tank?" That would be the one where you literally tear the back of the boat apart to get at an invisible inline filter. So I did, went to the local NAPA and picked up 2 inline filters plus 2 generic pump mounted filters - $15 total. Lesson learned.
                      R.J.(Bob) Evans
                      Buchanan, SK
                      Cierra 2755
                      Previously 43 Defever, Response LX
                      Various runabouts, canoes & kayaks

                      Comment


                        #12
                        What's the thought on oil filters for the small block Chevy powered boats? $5 at Auto Zone seems much better to me than $15 at the marine dealer, especially if I'm replacing it every year.
                        Justin
                        1984 2150 Ciera "C-ya"
                        AQ225D w/ AQ280
                        MMSI 338355691
                        St. Joseph, Michigan

                        Comment


                          #13
                          C-ya I stopped buying Merc filters when the engine warranty went out. Any of the name brand filters are OK, however, I buy the "gold" or best version of them. As I had said before: wanna bet a $5K engine against saving $10? Here's another thing: Merc does not own an oil filter (or oil) company. They buy what their engineers spec out and it "private labelled" at the company with mercs part number on it. Sierra does the same thing. I use dyno oil in the boat. I had tried Mobile 1 one. The plugs fouled after 10 hours. Went back to dyno, no problems. I use Valvoline racing 20-50. Bear with me on this.... A car engine uses a lot of power getting up to speed, as much as 150 HP. Then at 60 MPH cruise, 20 HP, 1800 RPM in O/D, or 2 gph. If a boat requires to be run at 3500 RPM to attain cruise, it stays there to maintain its and on my boat 11 GPH plane. The engine is running for all practical purposes at 2 times RPMs and just over 5 times loading. Racing engines also operate at higher RPMs, so racing oil is designed for minimum foaming. Seems to work for me.
                          AFAIAC, spending an extra $10 for a filter is cheap insurance, and one of the less costly things on a boat.
                          Captharv 2001 2452
                          "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

                          Comment


                          • C-ya
                            C-ya commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Thanks for the reply. I feel the same way about oil. Auto Zone or any other retailer that sells "their" brand does not drill it, pump it, refine it, bottle it, etc., so I buy the cheapest oil I can. I'm using full synth in my vehicles at the moment so I shop the oil change specials. My last truck had a 4.3 and got a dino oil change every 4K miles whether it needed it or not. I sold it with 245K on the clock 8 years ago and it is still on the road.

                            I'll keep the filter tip in mind and get the top end version, but I can't see paying for the marine name on an oil filter.

                          #14
                          I have run Wix filters almost exclusively in all my boats, cars, trucks. Never have bought a filter from a marine dealer.
                          1999 Sandpiper Pilothouse - Current
                          1989 3888 - 2011-2019, 1985 Contessa - 2005-2011, 1986 21' Trophy 1998-2005
                          Nobody gets out alive.

                          Comment


                            #15
                            Wix filters are a good brand. If you are curious, cut open your old filter and see exactly what is inside as far as materials. Is there a good quality filter material and how many pleats are there (surface area)? It is surprising what is (or isn't) inside some of the Brand name filters.
                            1980 Bayliner 3270 "Goose Bumps"
                            Twin 4.3 V6
                            Coal Harbour, Vancouver

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