Preparing for future salt water boating-gctid350139

[Guest]

Hello All,

I am going to plead ignorance on this subject as I have only been boating in fresh water. The wife and I have decided that this is going to be the last year we boat on our current lake and will be moving down to the New Jersey shore next boating season. We will be slipping our boat. This summer we will be starting our search for a marina down by the Forked River area. (open to any suggestions).

So, what do I need to know and do to prepare my boat for the transition from fresh to salt water? Are there things to watch for or do as my boat is slipped in salt water? Does the salt water effect the A/C unit if I run it while the boat is in it's slip? I have a 2010 245 SB. I have read about zincs but are not too familiar about proper placement. Like I said, total ignorance.

Thank you in advance for any help. - Tom

[Guest]

We are also fresh water Mississippi r. boaters but have traveled to the Gulf and Ocean on several occasions. The main thing that I was concerned with was the salt water getting into my engines. I installed closed cooling on our first boat and our present boat has it already. Your boat may also have closed cooling but if not I would have it installed. Annodes are all placed the sane but will be more activly corroded in salt water. The menace of barnacles is another thing that can be partially handled by picking a marina on a "spring fed" or fresh water river connection to the shore. Also check out the blog on BOC about using lanolin as antifowlant.

[dmcb]

If you don't have closed cooling, now is the time. After its been in salt the rust process starts and there is no stopping it. Even if its no longer in salt. You may slow it some but you can't stop it. if you add closed cooling later the rust will/may clog the system.

Bottom paint likely will be different as well as zinks. Others will be able to advise you on that.

Doug

[Guest]

The closed cooling system is an interesting thought. My 1986 Bayliner bowrider had that. Is that an easy install? Where do I begin to find info/parts for that? Thanks for that suggestion.

[Guest]

We added a closed cooling system from San Juan Engineering it ran about $1000.00, installed it myself. The kit came with instructions. Very good support from the factory. Search online for the best deals.

Consider anti fouling bottom paint if you are going to leave it in the salt water all season. Make sure you get the right anodes for the type of water you will be boating in.

If you have a steel painted trailer you might want to have your boat slung into and out of the water. That is what we do. The salt will degrade your trailer very noticeably. A galvanized or aluminum trailer will be ok, but you will still want to flush the brakes with a lot of fresh water.

[88fourwinns]

Well I have done this for 10 years worth here in Long Island NY. All salt water is not the same, but to start with a closed cooling system is an excellent idea. For antifouling, the main problem will not be the fiberglass hull, normal bottom paints can work fine. Its the aluminum outdrive and transom mount that are going to be maintenance intensive. First, its hard to find a good anti fouling paint for aluminum that actually works. The one most use here, Trilux, works about 1/2 the season, even when applied right. After that you start getting growth, in the transom mount, on the trim rams, etc. You can even get barnacles in the water intakes and that causes overheating. I'd try to get some local knowledge of what works where you will be keeping the boat. I started pulling my boat mid season and cleaning and repainting the drive, that is the only way, I do not have a barnacle farm on it by the end of the season. But depending on the water conditions where you are, it may not be that bad. Ask around first. Get proper anodes, and learn how to monitor for stray currents, in a marina that can be a big problem. I am on a mooring, no shorepower around so it's not a problem for us. My next boat will be an outboard, that should tell you something. Honestly the anti fouling paints for aluminum just do not work well here. The tin paints did but they were outlawed years ago.

Painted trailer, sell it and buy a galvanized one, no way a painted trailer will survive in salt water unless you have it hoisted as noted above. I have re-built salt water trailers and I have learned how to keep them relatively corrosion free and even how to keep drum brakes working in salt water. It takes patience and the right kinds of grease (OMC triple guard grease on springs, all threaded fasteners, etc). Drum brakes I pack the piston and under the rubber boot with synthetic caliper grease, I also grease all the pivot points with OMC triple guard. My drums last at least 5 years under my use, dunking 4-6 times per season. Disc brakes are supposed to be better, but I am not convinced yet, the rotors if not stainless rust really badly and the calipers freeze up unless you take em apart and grease them as well. I like drum brakes because they are self energizing and have return springs to release the brakes.

[Guest]

When I was moored in salt I cut a piece of black pond liner that was the width of the boat + a foot on each side and maybe 4ft deep. I attached weights to the bottom and floats to the top and tied it to the dock. When I returned to my slip I would drape it over the leg, tabs etc. and that reduced the growth quite substantially because the seaweed doesn't grow very well without sunlight. It also reduced the amount of barnacles. KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR ANODES. If you are in a "HOT MARINA" meaning lots of current in the water they will eat up pretty quick!

Closed cooling for sure!!

[Guest]

OK, so it looks like my first mission is pricing a closed cooling system. I did not know about that the bottom/anti fouling paint may not last a full season. I can see I do have a lot to learn. Thanks all for your advice and help. Any knowledge of A/C units having issues over time?

[Guest]

245_Tom wrote:
OK, so it looks like my first mission is pricing a closed cooling system. I did not know about that the bottom/anti fouling paint may not last a full season. I can see I do have a lot to learn. Thanks all for your advice and help. Any knowledge of A/C units having issues over time?

I have not heard of anything you can do to protect an AC unit in salt water. Some may have an anode, mine doesn't. I do flush mine with fresh water after I pull it out of the salt water so the salt doesn't sit inside the unit. Then I run RV antifreeze through it when I winterize.

[Guest]

your also going to need bigger fishing gear ,and a good anchor..jerry up in canada