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    Anchor/Bow Roller

    I need to add a anchor/bow roller to our Carver. I have a 22# Delta style anchor and a 22# claw style anchor and would like a roller that would work with both. I've attached a couple of pictures of what I'm
    looking at ​ and was wondering which one would be the best choice? Thanks, Jim
    Click image for larger version

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    Jim
    1975 2865 Carver Santa Cruz
    Twin 215hp 302 Ford Waukesha
    Twin Straight Shaft Drive
    Tow Vehicle 2002 Ford F250 Superduty
    7.3L Powerstroke
    Boise, Id

    #2
    Of the ones shown, pic 2 is the better one.... its wider so the anchor shackle will easily pass thru without hanging up, and it has a bail so the rode or anchor doesnt jump out, and with the more pronounced cheek plates when the anchor is drawn snug it wont rock around on the roller... as to the actual quality of the ones shown, its hard to tell, but the wider one is the better style.



    NU LIBERTE'
    Salem, OR

    1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
    5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
    N2K equipped throughout..
    2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
    2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
    '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
    Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

    Comment


      #3
      You need to be sure that on the claw or point of the anchors will not hit the hull, the second one that points down may be an issue unless you can mount it far enough forward to prevent the anchor from touching the hull.
      The anchor mount that is not turned down may well work much better than the other as it will lock the anchor in when the chain is tight, although I am not experienced with the roller that is turned down, in-fact it is the first one I have seen and I lived lived in my harbor for quite a few years.
      Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

      Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
      Twin 350 GM power
      Located in Seward, AK
      Retired marine surveyor

      Comment


        #4
        boatworkfl has a point in the design of the second one,,, the turn down or dropped roller is for a claw, spade or new gen style anchor... a danforth or other straight shank anchor may not sit well on it, but there ARE straight rollers that will hold either style anchor very well... 2.5" or wider, a bail over the roller and large cheeks at the end are the desirable features, the last 2 of which are very important in a rough anchorage...


        NU LIBERTE'
        Salem, OR

        1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
        5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
        N2K equipped throughout..
        2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
        2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
        '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
        Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

        Comment


          #5
          The first one that does not have a drop is one that I use for a 33 lb Bruce style anchor.
          That roller looks much more sturdy than the other.
          That roller will roll up and hold the anchor tight.
          Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

          Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
          Twin 350 GM power
          Located in Seward, AK
          Retired marine surveyor

          Comment


            #6
            Door number two, Wayne! I'm finding that no matter how I mess with my anchor shackle it's too wide for the factory anchor roller on our 3818. Part of the issue is the thickness of the shank is limiting me as to what width shackle I can install. Then, because of the shape and cg of the anchor, 44# Bruce type, as it is suspended by the chain makes for a rough looking pull as the shank comes up over the wheel. One of my spring projects is to build a wider deeper roller assembly. Just things for you to look at as you are researching.
            P/C Pete
            Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
            1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
            Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
            1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
            MMSI 367770440
            1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
            Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

            Comment


            • Centerline2
              Centerline2 commented
              Editing a comment
              I ended up fabricating a new wider roller insert for the anchor pulpit extension because I got tired of fighting the shackle... I had to trim out the slot in the pulpit extension to get it bedded, but its so much nicer..

            #7
            I have a BRM3 on my 3870 and a 33 lb Bruce copy anchor, I have no issues with the clevis on the anchor hanging up.
            You could use a bolt rather than a clevis.
            I just read the part about the roller, I replaced my roller with a slightly deeper groove and a slightly larger diameter which helped.
            I carry 2 16 lb folding anchors with 8' of cable on them so I can send them down in a storm or very high winds.
            I do anchor in sheltered coves though.
            A claw anchor works very well with that BRM style anchor roller on the left of the photo's.
            Last edited by boatworkfl; 01-06-2019, 07:46 AM.
            Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

            Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
            Twin 350 GM power
            Located in Seward, AK
            Retired marine surveyor

            Comment


              #8
              If a Windlass is in your future, you may want to consider installing an Anchor Pulpit.... and perhaps along with the roller system (the one shown in the second image)!
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #9
                The roller on the right does not look nearly as sturdy as the one on the left, notice the open bottom.
                Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                Twin 350 GM power
                Located in Seward, AK
                Retired marine surveyor

                Comment


                  #10
                  I picked up the one in the second photo. It was salvaged off a 30' Express and I was planning on a bow pulpit because I'm installing windlass also. I'm getting to old to pull chain. Jim
                  Jim
                  1975 2865 Carver Santa Cruz
                  Twin 215hp 302 Ford Waukesha
                  Twin Straight Shaft Drive
                  Tow Vehicle 2002 Ford F250 Superduty
                  7.3L Powerstroke
                  Boise, Id

                  Comment


                  • iceclimber
                    iceclimber commented
                    Editing a comment
                    +1 easily the best addition to my boat and potentially saved my marriage. Certainly my sanity. When it comes time I say skip the foot switches, install the flip switch in the boat and hook up a couple remotes. I have them on my key chains plus a 3rd that I can grab if needed.

                  • Centerline2
                    Centerline2 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    the remotes are nice.... harbor freight sells waterproof wireless remote kits for wiring onto to solenoids atv/truck winches, and they can be connected to the windless solenoids just as easily...

                  #11
                  I hadn't thought about remotes. I got the foot switches when I bought the windlass which is a Lewmar Pro 1000. Was salvaged from a 30' Caravelle. I was going to put switches in the cabin along with the foot switches. Now I'll look at remotes. I've seen the Harbor Freight ones and I thing they're about $40 with out the coupons. Jim
                  Jim
                  1975 2865 Carver Santa Cruz
                  Twin 215hp 302 Ford Waukesha
                  Twin Straight Shaft Drive
                  Tow Vehicle 2002 Ford F250 Superduty
                  7.3L Powerstroke
                  Boise, Id

                  Comment

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