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    Well that sucks

    Crap! Click image for larger version

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    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    #2
    Why do you do that Dave?

    do you think it was a casting flaw or an interference issue putting stress on it?
    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

    Mike

    Comment


      #3
      DB electric ?
      Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
      Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
      93 3058 sold
      92 2855 (day boat)
      91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
      Longbranch WA
      Life is Good

      Comment


        #4
        That’s not a modification you intended is it?
        P/C Pete
        Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
        1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
        Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
        1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
        MMSI 367770440
        1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
        Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

        Comment


        • builderdude
          builderdude commented
          Editing a comment
          Yea, wanted to shave some weight off the ass end haha

        #5
        Yes that sucks

        KEVIN SANDERS
        4788 LISAS WAY
        SEWARD, ALASKA

        Comment


          #6
          Joon, yes DB starter only two seasons. Sounded strange earlier today so I tested it a few times with no more issues, came into Edmonds and moored up, wanted to check it out again. Hit the key and clunk grind not good and didn’t want to crank. Replaced it at the dock with a new “temporary” unit
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #7
            Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
            Why do you do that Dave?

            do you think it was a casting flaw or an interference issue putting stress on it?
            Good question Mike. It looks like there was a dirty portion of the sheared section so I think it had a crack in the casting of the nose cone before it gave up. It never sounded strange until today.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #8
              I paint the starters 3-4 coats before installing.

              Send DB a note and a picture he might just send you a new starter.

              Hell if it helps tell him Chief Alen is your buddy, really he remembers good customers.
              Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

              1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              Manalapan N.J

              Comment


              • builderdude
                builderdude commented
                Editing a comment
                I’ll give them a call Chief

              #9
              Don’t think that is rebuildable.
              China?
              That was one part on my 2252 that I don’t think I would have been able to change without pulling the motor, so I had my starter rebuilt by a local company when I put a new Michigan motors engine in. Starter was easy to change when the engine was sitting on a crate in the back of my truck.
              Hopefully yours wasn’t to hard to get out.
              Esteban
              B-ham!
              Former Bayliners 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

              Comment


                #10
                Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                Good question Mike. It looks like there was a dirty portion of the sheared section so I think it had a crack in the casting of the nose cone before it gave up. It never sounded strange until today.
                Guess we need to start maginfluxing these.
                1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                Mike

                Comment


                  #11
                  Major update to this starter issue:
                  The starters nose cone could potentially shear during cranking if a bit of resistance were to be applied, say a minimal amount of water finding its way into one of the cylinders.
                  Yep I think I’ve got a dribble coming in via the exhaust system that has exacerbated itself during this outing.
                  Oil didn’t look like normal oil and the evidence at the crank case vents at the flame arrestor.
                  Sucks X 2

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #12
                    That really really sucks. Are you certain it’s the exhaust and not a leak at the intake? Has the oil level increased?

                    whats the plan?
                    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #13
                      Mike, no loss of coolant as far as I could tell so I took that off the table but it's definitely still a possibility. The oil on the dip stick looks tainted. I could tell some moisture had been introduced into the crankcase and then I saw the vents at the flame arrestor. I then looked into the oil fill cap at the valve covers and saw the milky stuff and there's evidence of some "blow by" at the dip stick tube that I never had before but the oil level was dead on the mark still (I check the oil level every time I shut it down, touch it, smell it etc. ) After another attempt to start it last night on muffs she again struggled to turn over. For half a second it sounded like normal cranking then just quit like a piston coming up on a tiny amount of water. I released the key and tried again, same thing, sounded like normal cranking for a half second then stop. Tried a 3rd time and she cranked through it and fired up. My best guess is a trickle of raw water from the elbow or spacer joint running down into one of the center exhaust valves and getting in. I'm guessing I'll find low compression on one of them as well.
                      First thing on my list is pulling the plugs for a visual followed by cranking it overr to see what comes out. I'm anticipating moisture from at least one of them.
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #14
                        Yup, you have some water in the oil. I’d start at the risers, it doesn’t take much of a gap for just a bit to get into the cylinders. One thing for sure, you are catching it early. Once you have it fixed, SeaFoam in the oil and a change or two will clean it right up.
                        P/C Pete
                        Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                        1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                        Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                        1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                        MMSI 367770440
                        1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                        Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

                        Comment


                          #15
                          As I suspected a breach in the exhaust port side. I’ll put up a video when I remember how to do it
                          last pic shows the ss elbow surface. The dark area is where I belive it was getting through.
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                          Comment

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