Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bad Engine Work

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Million dollar question here: What does the written warranty on the work performed state?
    Mocoondo
    2002 Bayliner 195 Capri
    Mercruiser 5.0L V8 / Alpha I Gen II
    MMSI: 338091755

    Comment


      #32
      Do you think that a rubber impeller would fill an engine with sand without damage?

      Comment


        #33
        Without a doubt it could. Not saying it did but it is something to check. I had a friend lose two Chevy block engines. He power loaded it. When he drained it to winterize he didn't probe the holes and the lower part of the block was full of sand. Both engines froze and broke that winter.
        I got my OMC driven 2755 stuck in sand. I horsed it out for a long time. It was in sand and mud the entire time and the impeller showed no damage at all.
        Overheating is not a common thing with an OMC.
        Every normal problem have been discussed here so you are going to have to look at the unusual. Just remove the drain plugs on the side of the block. See if sand comes out. Probe with a wire to be sure. Simple to do and that will eliminate that as a cause. Of course you need to get the engine running for it to matter but the problem may be on something bolted on and you could do the same thing to another engine.
        I doubt anything the engine rebuilder did is causing this. He maybe should have caught it upon assembly but maybe not. You have to accept responsibility for running the engine when it was running hot. You should have shut it down immediately. You didn't. Accept that and don't blame the mechanic for that. Don't mean to be harsh but that is the facts.

        If there happens to be sand in the block and you have insurance you may be able to file a claim. My friend's insurance company paid for two new engines.
        Now try to get it turned over and lets see how serious the problem is.
        Doug
        Started boating 1955
        Number of boats owned 32
        Bayliners
        2655
        2755
        2850
        3870 presently owned
        Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

        Comment


          #34
          Thanks for your input, I appreciate it.

          Comment


            #35
            Please keep us updated. We do care.
            Doug
            Started boating 1955
            Number of boats owned 32
            Bayliners
            2655
            2755
            2850
            3870 presently owned
            Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

            Comment


              #36
              Not sure if you answered this already but before you pulled the motor for rebuild was it running hot?
              Doug
              1995 496cu in. 2859 Bravo ll
              The Doghouse
              Prince George BC

              Comment


                #37
                I believe that was answered in the first post.
                Started boating 1955
                Number of boats owned 32
                Bayliners
                2655
                2755
                2850
                3870 presently owned
                Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

                Comment


                  #38
                  I've learned in my backyard mechanic-ing that the Chevrolet small block is a pretty durable engine. Overheating damage is usually seen in blown head gaskets and cracked cyl heads. At least that's what I found in my case. If the block was not damaged, it may be possible to get this engine going again with a careful top end overhaul. A set of re-man cyl heads, a good cleaning of the block mating surfaces and cyl head bolt holes and a set of new Fel/Pro marine gaskets may be all it needs.
                  88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                  98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                  07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                  Long Island Sound Region

                  Comment


                    #39
                    end result:

                    https://www.dropbox.com/s/55j6h4dd1u..._2273.MOV?dl=0
                    88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                    98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                    07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                    Long Island Sound Region

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by dmcb View Post
                      I believe that was answered in the first post.
                      I dont see where this was answered in the first post?
                      Doug
                      1995 496cu in. 2859 Bravo ll
                      The Doghouse
                      Prince George BC

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Your correct. My bad.
                        Doug
                        Started boating 1955
                        Number of boats owned 32
                        Bayliners
                        2655
                        2755
                        2850
                        3870 presently owned
                        Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Just pulled the plugs, the entire drivers side bank had finger loose plugs. Only reason they didn't fall out was because the wires were on. Plugs from cyl's 5 and 7 are bad. Corroded, wet, oily, with black soot on #5 and rust on #7. Looks like a blown head gasket. It has only 19 hours. Not looking like a good mechanics job. The first time I ran it in March 2017 was the first time since previous summer. It had the same corroded #5 plug, which I had cleaned. Anyway that the latest. Don't know what I'll find if I can someone to open it up for me. Meanwhile I am soaking the cylinders with catalytic penetrating oil.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            All in all you may well get away without pulling that engine , just removing the heads. Cross your fingers , who knows you may get a break you certainly are due for one. PS if we are ever in a combat zone dont Stand next to me. You haven’t got lottery winning luck.

                            Ok im just a hillbilly home wrench slinger but I’ve done a lot of it for a lot of years. Played with a whole lot of Chevy engines over the years. Any of you guys who really are mechanics or play one on tv tell me if I’m fully bulla here but ifit was me id approach it this way. .

                            Ok you say all plugs on one side oily goo and somewhere lurking within the phantom piece of something is hiding. Now what about trying this. Unhook battery. drain the block of water. If the lower plugs have those
                            cute little drain twists put a wrench on them and unscrew the whole darned plug. Open that thing up as wide as you can get not just a tiny opening. Now you have nice 1/2” holes for things to come out of. Swipe wifeys cullendar ect Put it under there when the water comes out hoping to catch so you can see if something significant comes out.

                            Pull the manifold off that the hoses meet at by the thermostat. Make very sure there’s no chunks hiding in there and especially behind the spring loaded balls that serve as check valves. That’s if yours has them. I say that in particular because I had a piece of impeller stuffed in behind one of those that did no damage but irked me for 10 year with slight heating at low speed,

                            Next pull the intake manifold. Then the heads . Set them aside and turn over the engine with. Socket and get.a look at the cylinder walls. If you see an obvious vertical scoring give it up right there it’s gotta come out. If not and it turns over freely with a deep socket on the crank. If in doubt have a mechanic feel how stiff it is. Remember it’s a new motor it is going to be tight still.. Stuff cut up Rag plugs in all the cylinders to keep debris out that you kick up. Stufff up the Oil journals too and leave the end hanging way-out there lest you miss one while replacing the head. That WOULD BE TEARFUL!


                            Next trick rod out all the block waterjacket holes. I’m not sure but I think a boiler cleanout brush from the local plumbing supply will work. They are like a rifle bore brush tough and 2’ long. (Yea I just cleaned my boiler a while ago is how I thought of this thing). I think they are about the right size. If too large use a piece of say electric fence wire, something thick. Get in there and clean out those holes. first use the fence wire .Carefully feed it down feeling for if you bump or dislodge something. . It’s a straight shot not far down so you shouldn’t hit anything till bottom. If you don’t then follow up with the bore brush. If you do encounter something bend a tiny tight V on the wires end . Tiny so hopefully you can get past and hook it. Then carefully coax it up within reach of needle nose pliers. If you find something and aren’t sure have the mechanic dig it out. Ok once you are all done blow some compressed air or with a tiny funnel pour water down there and flush things out. Clean up the blocks surfaces, that shouldn’t need much since it’s a new engine and cover it up with wifeys favorite towel! May as well drain the oil and change the filter sometime too. Don’t put new Oil in yet.

                            While you’re at this what about the exhaust shutters. I don’t know OMC but they do fall apart on Mercs and I even found a full set in my buddies once down below not hurting anything below the installed ones. Feel around in there as best you can. Anything unusual to you have the mechanic look at it or let him check it out. He will get a far better look with those heads off than before anyways.

                            oh, since it’s already nekked I’d take that front engine water circ pump off. It’s only 2 small cheap gaskets and 4 bolts right. Shake it around in case some. Hunk got stuck in there. Spin the hub, it should feel draggy like on rubber and smooth not fighting you Pass a wire through any holes you can’t see through.



                            Now take those heads down to the shop and tell them what it’s been doing and to check them out. Write a brief notation of what’s happening so the head guy is really looking for that issue not just general things. They shouldn’t hopefully need much if any work if you just had them done, fingers crossed.

                            There, if you do it yourself or hire it is your call put it together. I’d pass on that mechanic that left 4 spark plugs loose I think unless it was intentional. just sayin. It’s not all that much work. Shouldn’t cost a bundle either. Maybe , if you’re a good negotiator you can get the rebuilder to go for putting it back together or at least the head and engine assembly part and everybody go home friends. That isn’t much work for him so isn’t much to ask really. Play this right and a bit of luck you might just escape with a few hundred bucks and some time.

                            FYI get one of those small hand held HF laser thermometers. $20 very handy picking up checking hot spots and temp readings on boats or in the House. Get one. And remember the golden rule. DONT OVERHEAT PAST 200. If it hits 200 you stop NOW. Have a beer relax till it cools then creep home even if it takes a couple sittings. It will take a while but you won’t toss an engine either. Using that non contact thermometer really helps pinpoint hot and cold areas of interest.

                            There wrenches, I just spent an hour of my life sitting here in the alps drinking a really great Dunkelbak beer telling this guy how I’d do this, If I’m telling anything wrong here or missed something you know of by all means speak up.




                            Comment


                              #44
                              OP beives this engine to be seized due to an overheat. He hasn't been able to "crank" the engine over since it last quit and he's not sure if the starter motor is working. With all the plugs removed the crank should be able to be spun with a wrench fairly easily if it's not seized. If the crank can not be spun it's either seized or the rings have become rusted to the cylinder wall(s) from water intrusion. OP, take precautions to not snap the crank bolt doing this, there is a tool that can be bolted to the balancer to keep that from happening.
                              IMO If the crank by some miracle can be spun then move to a cooling system pressure test before disassembling anything.
                              Dave
                              Edmonds, WA
                              "THE FIX"
                              '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                              (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                              Misc. projects thread
                              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                              Comment


                                #45
                                builderdude - The starter works but issues a stark clank on the flywheel when trying to start. Don’t want to break the bendix. Looking for a tool to put on the pulley so I can try turning it.

                                Comment


                                • Nauti_Mike
                                  Nauti_Mike commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  Try a strap wrench to wrap around the balancer. You can use a pipe on the wrench handle but if it requires too much effort you’ll just mess up the piston rings if it’s that tight.
                              Working...
                              X