Things were going just fine, until the water poured out

[Guest]

I installed my Smart Tabs yesterday and I guess that things were going a little too well.

Drilled a hole and water came out! Drilled 2 more and more poured out,,,,,, and now I don't know what to do

Obviously this is going to freeze soon and the rest of any water inside my transom will freeze and ruin things.

UGH......


Attached files

[Mr._Darcy]

Finish drilling all other mounting holes and let the water drain out while enjoying your favorite beverage. You need to get rid of all the water first. Then you will need to determine if the transom wood is dry or not. This should have been obvious while drilling the holes. Were the bits of wood from the drill wet or dry? Find how the water is getting in there if wet. Report back what you find out. It may be a none issue or it could get more involved.

Greg

[Guest]

The drill surely came out with wet wood on it. The water ran out for several minutes and finally stopped but the holes were drilled fairly high and I'm sure there is more inside.

Wondering if I should try drilling a couple more holes to drain and then patch later.

UGH........I see thousands of dollars here......

[Mr._Darcy]

You definitely need to get rid of the water first. It could get expensive...

Greg

[fritzman]

If the wood shavings are black, you have dry now wet rot, big project for the winter choices is to sell or repair your call.

[SKUA_28_Contessa]

"fritzman" post=828387 wrote:
If the wood shavings are black, you have dry now wet rot, big project for the winter choices is to sell or repair your call.

This^^^. If no rot, then a couple heat lamps, for a couple of weeks will help dry it out. But delamination is always a possibility.

If you want to try to dry it, drill several holes on the inside, near the top of the transom, apply heat lamps, don't go crazy as a fire will dry it beyond recovery!!! Let it go for a couple weeks, then drill a couple new test holes. If it's progressing let it go, if it's dry, patch up holes and go on with life. If any holes turn up rot, then you have other choices to make. you should also rebed and hull perforations to prevent water getting in again.

[Guest]

I'm going to be sick :sick:

[Jim_Gandee]

Sarah,

The water draining from the drilled hole appears very clear, to clear it would seem to be coming from saturated wood. Is there any possibility the hole was drilled completely trough the transom and you're actually seeing draining bilge water? This must be something smaller than a 28?

[Guest]

It sure is very clear but not from drilling too deeply - only drilled about 1/2"

And it's a 19' bowrider now, no more 28

[88fourwinns]

Try not to panic, the main thing is to really let it dry out. If possible can you get a fiberglass person to take a look at it? If its already wrapped you might not be able to get in the engine compartment to see if there was water in the bilge up against the transom. If you can let it dry out most of the winter, it might be fine. A wet transom is not the kiss of death, but it does require some logical action. Heat lamps (be careful) and fans help. I replaced both a depth finder transducer and the pitot for the speedo on my boat and no water came out, and this thing has sat in salt water for 15+ seasons out here in Long Island. But this is a common occurrence. Look for a good glass shop go there with your pix and see what they say.

[Nickdixon]

I've got a 195 and I'm curious as to where on the transom that hole is. Assuming your bilge plug is out (and just btw you can get n idea of how thick the transom is by putting your finger in the bilge hole) and its not bilge water, you will definitely need to figure out how the water got in. On mine their are really only four places for water to get in the transom itself unless you have a broken canvas snap or the strap stops aren't sealed. They are the two stern cleats and the vents for the bilge blower and through ventilation.

A look around inside the engine and battery compartments is a good idea, in case you have drilled through. If the location is where I think it is, you should be able to see if that's the case. But you've got to figure out where that water came from.

[Norton_Rider]

"88fourwinns" post=828515 wrote:
Heat lamps (be careful) and fans help.

I would definitely not use heat lamps or fans in the engine compartment of a gasoline powered inboard or sterndrive boat.

[floatyerboat]

I thought on a previous post of yours you said you just got back into boating and bought it. If so I'd call the person you bought it from for starters. I'd also try the small hammer inspection the surveyors use on the hull and go over the whole transom. You can definitely tell a solid crack from a mushy thud. A hammer with a plastic head works great.

If you don't have to drive a great distance a picture would be great.

[Jim_Gandee]

Raul,

On a 19' bow rider the engine probably has a top hatch or a dog house that can be completely opened up. If that's the case I would be very comfortable using heat and fans, especially fans. Problem is I seriously doubt heat lamps and fans will dry a wet transom but that's a WAG as I have no experience.

Sarah,

The boat is obviously trailered now. Does it reside on the trailer between uses or did you keep it in a slip all summer just pulling it out now?

[builderdude]

"Jim Gandee" post=828523 wrote:
Raul,

On a 19' bow rider the engine probably has a top hatch or a dog house that can be completely opened up. If that's the case I would be very comfortable using heat and fans, especially fans. Problem is I seriously doubt heat lamps and fans will dry a wet transom but that's a WAG as I have no experience.

I agree, if it's fairly wet ( and it probably is judging from "water pouring out") fans and heat won't get it dry, ask me how I know. As stated before, if the wood shavings are not dark and mushy she'll likely have many years of boating with a wet but solid transom. Obviously it will degrade over time if not addressed.