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Remove boat from trailer on the hard-gctid824605

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    Remove boat from trailer on the hard-gctid824605

    I know there are a lot of videos on youtube showing how to do this and I have looked at a bunch of them. My question is about putting blocks under the keel to take the weight of the boat. With stabilizing braces on both sides is the keel strong enough if I put a block under the transom and another further forward. I want to do prep work to my trailer and paint it. The trailer is in real good condition but looks it's age. It's a single axle trailer and I added surge breaks to it since I tow with a GMC S15 4X4. The boat and trailer probably weigh almost what the truck weighs. With the surge breaks it stops real nice, feels as though I am not towing anything when stopping. I would also like to do some work to the hull, shine it up a bit and I don't like to get under heavy things unless I know with certainty that it is safe. Years ago our neighbor was killed when his car rolled over him when he was under it doing some work. I took a lesson from that. My shop is built with massive trusses supporting the roof. I am thinking of straps from one of the trusses to help stabilize the boat, not to take the weight but to just help stabilize the boat with less stuff in the way under it to make working on the hull easier. It has a few small dings from previous owner hitting something and needs a little attention. Also the trailer isn't licensed and I understand that in Washington state I need to weigh the trailer and have the state police inspect it to get license on it. I am tired of buying $30 three day temp license every time I want to take the boat out. The trailer is the Escort trailer that I am sure was purchased with the boat when it was new. Anyway my question is, are two blocks under the keel enough to support the boats weight and not damage the keel.
    1988 Capri Cuddy 1950 OMC 5.7

    #2
    I cant offer any advice, but is it a bunk trailer or a roller trailer ? it makes a difference as to how easy it is.

    Terry
    1982 3270
    Volvo BB 140 A's
    Killbear Marina, Parry Sound, Ontario, Canada

    Comment


      #3
      To licence a trailer in Washington you have to go to a certified scale and get a form stating the weight of the trailer. Then you go to the state police department they inspect it and give you a registration. If you don't have the build receipts for materials or a bill of sale they give you a registration only. If no one has come forth in 3 years to claim as a stolen trailer you may then apply for a title which is simple as going to DMV they then issue.

      In spokane we for instance the police inspection is near airway heights across from the garbage transfer station. You go to the police department they give you a p.o. to go to the transportation across the street. You have it weighed they give you a receipt you then return with that receipt to the police station and present it to them. They do their thing and done.

      The process has nothing to do with safety or usability of the trailer or it's load capability. They want to know how much the trailer weighs period. They inspect it for previous serial #'s how many axles and so on. They will measure it and combined with the weight information at that time if all is good the issue a serial #. It is then stamped on the trailer by them and they will also apply a state certified serial # plaque at that time.

      Then you are done. It's more a issue of time than anything. They didn't look to see if lights worked hitch configuration load capacity. I would recommend however when you go it is road legal and safe.

      As for getting the boat off the trailer check out my thread here maybe it will give you some ideas.

      http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/in...er-in-1-2-hour

      If you block the back of the boat it can be suspended all the way to the front. Especially on the smaller boats. However i wouldnt store it that way. Also make sure the block touching the hull is much wider lenght ways than a 2x4 or even a 4x4. A small block can punch right through the hull from the boats weight.

      I don't recommend you get under the boat unless it is 100% secure. I do with my saw horse but it cant fall the way I have it. It needs to be blocked correctly

      Cinder blocks are not satisfactory blocking material. They can and will crush and fail and the boat will fall.
      1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
      twin 454's
      MV Mar-Y-Sol
      1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
      Twin chevy 350's inboard
      Ben- Jamin
      spokane Washington

      Comment


        #4
        Here are some pics the the blocking i use. If you chose to use 2x4 to build a block may i suggest you use pressure treated on the bottom rungs as it uses a lot of wood and the bottom will rot from being on the ground. It will keep your blocks usable for more years



        You can see that I used tree logs for my keel blockking because i had them and i think it's stronger.





        That is my 3450 that I put on blocks. I have a jib crane that I built but I also have the saw horse if you have the ability to make or have one made.
        1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
        twin 454's
        MV Mar-Y-Sol
        1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
        Twin chevy 350's inboard
        Ben- Jamin
        spokane Washington

        Comment


          #5
          Agree with yachtman on supporting the boat. Cribing blocks at/under the transom and the other under the bow area where there is a bulkhead and before it climbs to steep as you don't want it to slip out. Then boat stands or equivalent to keep it from tipping side to side, no cinder blocks

          Make sure you are confident in doing this, your boat is on the smaller end of boats but it will still kill you if it comes down on you.
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556
          Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #6
            Here I have my 32 foot boat completely suspended. I can work on the entire bottom and It will not fall as long as the back transom it properly blocked.



            I have the boat here suspended on the jib crane. I don't like getting under it even just to put the blocks under. . I tie a rope to the block and then pull it from the other side to where it needs to be then i quickly inspect and get out.



            I can tell you the block and move method of removing a boat is a pain in the butt at times can be scary and dangerous. If that is the way you do it be careful just be safe lots of people do it that way.

            You say you have massive trusses in your shop. How much does yourboat weigh? Here is a thought? For example I have pulled out v8 engines using a truss and a come along. If you think it would be strong enough try this. Get 2 chain hoists hang them from the trusses with sufficiently strong chain at the width of your boat. Get a tow strap and attach to hoists. My strap I use is 21000 lb strap. Get some 6x6 and shore up thightly the truss on the outside of each chain hoist. You could also add some thickness to the truss with additional 2x6 or 2x8 resting on the 6x6 posts.

            Lower the trailer tongue to the ground block and Jack stand the back of the boat up tight then raise the tongue to the vehicle. The back of the boat should now be off the trailer. Now lift the front with the 2 chain hoists you should be free of trailer pull out trailer. You might let some air out of tires of trailer after the boat is hanging to give to some more room. Block front of boat and done.

            I know I can lift 1000 lbs with my 2x6 trusses with one shore post because I have a 10k watt generator I load into my truck that way from my shop. It weighs 1000lbs. With additional posts and wider truss it should support much more.

            Take the weight of boat divide in half that would be the front weight of the boat but probably less because engine is in back. Now divide that number in half again that would be the weight that would be on each chain hoist. If you know it would support it I would consider doing that. Im guessing that you could probably shore it up to carry 2000 lbs maybe 2 -6x6 posts supporting maybe a 6x6 or 8 truss. Keep in mind most of the weight will fall on the shoring post that should be up close to the 6x6.


            Attached files

            1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
            twin 454's
            MV Mar-Y-Sol
            1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
            Twin chevy 350's inboard
            Ben- Jamin
            spokane Washington

            Comment


              #7
              I was looking online and the specs say your boat weighs 1900#.

              At the most you will be lifting 1000lbs with your trusses but still the engine is in the back so it will be significantly less. I probably would have no problem doing what I described but then my disclaimer is you have to chose what is best and safest for you. I'm not responsible.
              1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
              twin 454's
              MV Mar-Y-Sol
              1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
              Twin chevy 350's inboard
              Ben- Jamin
              spokane Washington

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the replies guys, pretty much what I was thinking about doing. Good advice from all.
                1988 Capri Cuddy 1950 OMC 5.7

                Comment

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