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Homemade Trailer tongue stand advice-gctid824581

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    Homemade Trailer tongue stand advice-gctid824581

    Made this with a 4x4 and some scraps but it still feels shaky. I don't think it'll wobble off, but I wanted to take the weight off my wheel. Any ideas? What do you guys do?


    Attached files

    2001 Bayliner Capri 1950 CL

    #2
    Concrete blocks, thats what I use when I wont to block the tongue!

    Otherwise I leave it on the tongue jack!

    Don
    1995 Maxum 2400 SCR LUNA DE MIEL
    1988 Bayliner 2455 (sold)
    1976 Tahiti 16.5 I/O (sold)
    10 ft livingston (lost in fire )
    1987 18ft. Seaswirl cuddy (lost in fire)
    "Is it better to be on a boat thinking about God, or be in church thinking about boating?"

    Comment


      #3
      Prior owner of our lake boat had a stand made up that I now own. It has a 12" square steel plate at the bottom with a 2.5" diameter steel pipe welded to the base. At the top of the pipe he welded a U that the trailer tongue slots into. The U has a steel pin that then fits in over the top of the trailer so you can lock it into place. The stand raises the bow up high enough so that any water drains out of the bilge while stored. Its very stable and secure.
      Terry
      1999 Bayliner 3388
      Twin Cummins 4BTA
      Fisherman, Cruiser, Boaticus-enthusiasticus-maximus
      Member Royal Victoria Yacht Club

      Comment


        #4
        I use wheel chocks on the trailer. I also have a heavy rubber donut type thing that I sometimes place under the jack wheel for more stability on sloping ground. I'm not concerned about keeping the jack wheel off the ground.
        1998 Capri 1950CL
        3 Liter MerCruiser
        Furuno 1622 Radar, Garmin echoMAP44dv, Garmin 300 AIS receiver, Uniden Cl 2 VHF with Hailer,
        2 batteries with Combiner, Joystick Wakeboard Tower

        Comment


          #5
          What you've constructed will work if the ground is level and stable (and the 4x4 is vertical). But if it starts to lean in any direction, the 4x4 will act like a crowbar and pry apart the 4 wood blocks you've nailed or screwed together. An earthquake or something pushing your trailer tongue sideways could cause it to collapse.

          You've got the right idea - broadening the base to increase stability. But you want to reduce the leverage by having the support pieces push against the 4x4 higher up. That's why concrete blocks would work better (they're taller).

          Also, if it should start to tip over, the way you've arranged the scrap pieces converts the load into shear forces - the blocks will want to slide and twist against each other, snapping the screws or nails you have holding them together. Structures are usually weakest in shear, especially with all the leverage you've given the trailer tongue, so it's not an ideal bracing structure.

          Compression is generally strongest. Say, laying the scrap pieces flat on each side of the 4x4 to form a cross. Screw them into place there. That alone would still result in a shear force, and against the narrow side of the blocks so it would be even weaker than what you've constructed. So you cut some 2x4s and angle the edges. Screw them in place as a brace between the 4x4 and each scrap piece (forming a triangle). Basically making it look like a king post truss, in both the North-South and East-West directions, with the center beam extending up past the top of the triangle.

          http://www.ashireporter.org/photos/t...13_09/0452.jpg

          If the 4x4 starts to fall over, the weight of the trailer will be converted into a compressive force in the diagonal brace on that side. So the only way the 4x4 can tip over further is if it crushes the brace or rips all the screws out.
          1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

          Comment


            #6
            Or just let it sit on the wheel. I've been doing it that way for over 40 years, current boat for 8 years.
            Jeff & Tara (And Ginger too)
            Lake Havasu City, AZ
            |
            Current: 2008 Playcraft 2400 MCM 350 Mag B3
            2000 Bayliner 3388 Cummins 4bta 250s (SOLD 2020)
            2000 Bayliner 2858 MCM 7.4 MPI B3 (SOLD 2018)
            2007 Bayliner 305 MCM twin 350 Mag B3s (SOLD 2012)
            2008 Bayliner 289 MCM 350 Mag Sea Core B3 (SOLD 2009)
            And 12 others...
            In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. 7-2-10

            Comment


              #7
              2-4 or more 2x8 stacked under the wheel, with the trailer tires chocked.

              Say you can't have the drive or outboard fully down , then stack some 2x8 wood under the tires.
              Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

              1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              Manalapan N.J

              Comment


                #8
                The one I've been using forever is a foot-long times two pieces of 6 x 6 pressure treated post topped with a piece of 2 x 6 . They give me the weather endurance for the ground contact and gets the bow high enough that I can roll it way up in the air. I took the router and made a big slot across where the wheel sets down into the 2 x 6 so it won't go anywhere if I go dancing into the back of the boat. I used to have just dished out place but I made the long slap so I can roll it back-and-forth easily when I'm trying to line up on the trailer ball.

                When I use this I just returned it with my foot snake it out of there and kick it back in the position and I come back later on. I like that better than Cinder blocks because if you drive over to bump it with anything it's not gonna do so much damage.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks for the insights! If you guys get a chance I'd love to see pics of your setups too!
                  2001 Bayliner Capri 1950 CL

                  Comment


                    #10
                    "Jeffw" post=824600 wrote:
                    Or just let it sit on the wheel. I've been doing it that way for over 40 years, current boat for 8 years.
                    Agree, that's what it's there for. Additional blocking or a stand is really only needed if you need to raise the bow do to an uneven grade etc.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556
                    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I let my Boston Whaler trailer sit on the jack wheel - no issues. I took a short length of pressure treated 2x8 and cut a large hole in it with a hole saw. I use it to chock the jack wheel. It works the same as one of these:

                      [img ]https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/361384824449_/TRAILER-JACK-WHEEL-CHOCK-STOP-RING-Boat-Utility.jpg[/img]
                      1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
                      2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
                      Anacortes, WA
                      Isla Verde, PR

                      Comment


                        #12
                        this is a funny thread. why would you feel the need to take the weight off of a tongue jack? That is what they are designed for.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          "6104696" post=824642 wrote:
                          this is a funny thread. why would you feel the need to take the weight off of a tongue jack? That is what they are designed for.
                          Sure, but I didn't think it would be good for long term storage over the winter. I always raise mine all the way up so the bilge drains out too. Just figured its cheaper to use a scrap piece of pressure treated 4x4 in case I end up messing up the tongue jack and having to spend $50+ for a new one, that's all.
                          2001 Bayliner Capri 1950 CL

                          Comment


                            #14
                            "6104696" post=824642 wrote:
                            this is a funny thread. why would you feel the need to take the weight off of a tongue jack? That is what they are designed for.
                            Ditto!

                            .
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              "6104696" post=824642 wrote:
                              this is a funny thread. why would you feel the need to take the weight off of a tongue jack? That is what they are designed for.
                              X3!

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