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    Adding A Windlass

    My 288 doesn't have a windlass so I very rarely anchor anywhere because of the challenge of manually droping/raising anchor especially if I'm on my own. I'm considering adding a windlass as the boat is already prewired for it but I got a quote from the show in the neighborhood of $2500-$3000 for the windlass & install. How much better/convenient is having a windlass for those of you who have them (especially in a boat like the 288 command bridge? Also, the shop recommends having a wireless control so I can operate it from the bow as they said that's the best place to control them so also curious if you all operate yours from up on the flybridge or if you go to the bow to operate the windlass?

    #2
    I can't imagine not having a windlass on mine. A wireless remote would be nice, but you'll still need to go out on the bow to secure the rode to the cleat, and unsecure it. So if you don't have foot controls, or don't want to install them, the remote would be even more valuable. It eliminates having to yell at someone at the helm to raise or lower the anchor. You should have wiring to the helms to operate the windlass if it's pre-wired. I have switches at both helms and foot controls on the bow, but no remote.
    Jeff & Tara
    (And Ginger too)
    Lake Havasu City, AZ

    2000 Bayliner 3388
    "GetAway"
    Cummins 4bta 250s

    In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. July 2, 2010

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Jeff. So can you drop/raise your anchor if you by yourself on your 288 or do you need someone at the bow & someone at the helm?

      Comment


        #4
        I have installed a windlass last year, i did it myself , it was quite a bit of work, but having windlass is awesome now!

        I installed a helm control and bow controls as well, now wireless, don't really need it, but being able to control it from the bow is important
        1998 Ciera 2855, 7.4L MPI, Harbourfront Toronto, Ontario

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          #5
          That price sounds about right for someone to do it all. I did my own with yachtman's help and it's not all that hard, just lots of variables. I skipped all the foot switch nonsense and went with a toggle in the cabin and remotes. You can substitute an ATV winch reversing solenoid for about 20 bucks and remotes are even less if you buy simple 12 volt remotes on Ebay. Yes, I have to face the disdain of snobby boaters for not using the ridiculous overpriced marine stuff, but I will just have to live with that. It's all 12 volt, it all works the same. So, I think I paid roughly 800 for the Maxwell windlass kit found on the interwebs, 40 bucks for the solenoid and remotes, the cost of the rode was like $400 (rope and chain) then you need appropriate power cables and decide on a power source. I went against everyone's advice and ran power from my house batteries in the back of the boat. Ideally, you want a dedicated battery very close to the windlass. You have to figure out a way to charge it. For whatever reason, mine works perfectly but it's not technically the way you should do it. Oh, the hardest part is drilling a big hole in your boat

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the reply everyone. I'm semi-handy but not to the point of risking screwing up this up due to the importance of placement and drilling the hole so glad to hear the quote I'm getting is in ballpark or reasonable for the amount of work involved. Guess I'm going ahead with it as I miss out on a lot of activities around here like taking the boat and anchoring in the prime spot for 4th of July fireworks & the annual Air & Water show or simply dropping anchor and chillaxing in the waters of Lake Michigan away from the marina because it's a pain to drop/raise the anchor manually.

            Comment


              #7
              "netsurfr" post=818118 wrote:
              Thanks Jeff. So can you drop/raise your anchor if you by yourself on your 288 or do you need someone at the bow & someone at the helm?
              I can, and usually, do it myself. The foot switches or a remote are necessary for that. If I'm stopping for a swim, I drop and retrieve the anchor from the helm, I don't secure to the cleat for a quick swim or lunch/snacks.
              Jeff & Tara
              (And Ginger too)
              Lake Havasu City, AZ

              2000 Bayliner 3388
              "GetAway"
              Cummins 4bta 250s

              In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. July 2, 2010

              Comment


                #8
                After a few things have been carefully considered, this is typically a user friendly installation. If you are fairly handy, you can install your Windlass.

                The trick or main concerns will be layout, layout and more layout.

                You get only one shot at it when it comes to cutting the deck correctly...... but it can be done!

                Things to consider:

                ..... is the anchor rode locker large enough, and is it deep enough to create decent fall? if not, you may have trouble.

                ..... a Windlass can be more trouble-free and effective when the drop zone favors the AFT-most 1/3 of the rode locker.

                ..... many Horizontal Windlass styles incorporate spur gears for the reduction of which are not as stout as the Vertical Windlass that incorporates worm gears.

                ..... a Vertical Windlass "gypsy" offers approx 180* of rode contact, whereas a Horizontal Windlass "gypsy" offers approx 90* of contact only.

                ..... the below-deck electric motor of the Vertical Windlass does not hinder the rode pile........ if it did, the locker is too small to begin with.

                ..... the Vertical Windlass gypsy drops the rode offset from center of bow. (important to remember when doing the layout)

                ..... make sure that your anchor shank and swivel unit can lay nicely on your pulpit leaving some space just FWD of the gypsy.

                .... choose an anchor that suits your anchoring needs, but one that can also come up and over the pulpit roller "hands-free" and from a low profile pull..... (your gypsy cannot stand up and pull/retrieve like a human is able to).

                .

                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #9
                  Also , i put a chain stopper with mine, takes pressure of the windlass gears when docked
                  1998 Ciera 2855, 7.4L MPI, Harbourfront Toronto, Ontario

                  Comment


                    #10
                    http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-2CH-C...1%26rkt%3D1%26

                    Jeff I used something like this...works like a charm. I have one on my keys plus a spare. Just wire it to your reversing solenoid.

                    One thing to keep in mind when selecting your rode...how much line will you ever need ? Figure your depth X 3. As a land locked boater I will probably never anchor in water deeper than 30 feet. So, I will probably never use all the rode I am carrying. All chain is best, and also expensive, hence the chain/rope splice combo. Cheaper, weighs way less works fine for most recreational boating. I have spent lots of time learning how to properly place the anchor and still screw it up occasionally.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hyperlite wrote:

                      Also , i put a chain stopper with mine, takes pressure of the windlass gears when docked

                      I seldom deploy my anchor when docked! :P :lol:

                      .
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment


                        #12
                        "2850Bounty" post=818185 wrote:
                        Hyperlite wrote:

                        Also , i put a chain stopper with mine, takes pressure of the windlass gears when docked

                        [color]blue wrote:
                        I seldom deploy my anchor when docked![/color] :P :lol:

                        .
                        You are missing out on the fun. I always wait until someone is walking by then drop anchor while docked.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The only time I needed another person to help anchor was when it was windy and there were other boats or land nearby. And my retract foot switch wasn't working. So I had to pull anchor and chain manually while calmly instructing the gf on the flybridge to manipulate the shifters and throttles so as not to run aground or ram any of the fancy Nordic tugs.

                          I also recommend the wireless remote in addition to helm switches. Foot switches seem to need maintenance every 5 years and it's always the retract one that stops working.
                          Esteban
                          Huntington Beach, California
                          2018 Element 16
                          Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
                          Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

                          Comment


                            #14
                            My plan is to add a Lewmar V700 vertical and since this boat is prewired for the windlass and it was an option when new I'm assuming the anchor locker & drop are going to be good but that's why I'm having the marina do the work and come check it out first. Guess I'll also go w/ the recommended (by marina) wireless remote in addition to helm switch. Thanks everyone.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              "netsurfr" post=818280 wrote:
                              My plan is to add a Lewmar V700 vertical and since this boat is prewired for the windlass and it was an option when new I'm assuming the anchor locker & drop are going to be good but that's why I'm having the marina do the work and come check it out first. Guess I'll also go w/ the recommended (by marina) wireless remote in addition to helm switch. Thanks everyone.
                              Good luck ! You have a huge advantage going with a professional install, and that is a warranty on the work.

                              Comment

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