raw water fittings-gctid817244

[ron12512]

trying to find a barbed y 1-1/4 inch to hook up sea cock and keep the raw water connection through the bravo out drive. Seems that my new 383 stroker is thirsty. Anyone have any luck finding a supplier for these?

[builderdude]

As in the operating temp is to high? OEM sea water pump should provide enough volume for your 383. Have you verified the gauge accuracy with an IR gun? Have you checked the gimbal housing for "bravoitis" or any other possible obstruction?

[Pcpete]

Plus one with Builder. When does it start getting too warm? You said "new 383", what all did you transfer from the old engine?

Here's a real stray question. Does it get very warm fairly quickly at idle? In tha case could be that you have the wrong water pump on the coolant side. The standard v-belt pumps turn the opposite direction from the serpentine belt pumps. Ask me how I know and why I have a nearly new serpentine type pump on a shelf in my shop.

[aluxury1]

Hey builderdude, can you explain the bravoitis? I have some overtemps going on but I'm pretty sure its the seawater pump. It warms up slowly, hangs in there at 2500, but on plane- 3100 and above she heads north into buzzer zone.

[builderdude]

Bravoitis is basically corrosion that builds up at the water hose connection to the gimbal housing. The hose is simply expanded via the plastic insert to form a seal between the outer hose and the opening in the housing. Corrosion can form at this sealed area and over time grows/expands around the water hose crushing down on the hose and plastic insert. This will eventually restrict the volume of cooling water to the engine and cause overheating issues. First indications are usually running hotter than normal at higher rpm.

Here's a pic of what it looks like after the raw water fitting has been removed from the inner shield. The opening has been restricted to about 1/4" in diameter.





Attached files

[green650]

"ron12512" post=817244 wrote:
trying to find a barbed y 1-1/4 inch to hook up sea cock and keep the raw water connection through the bravo out drive. Seems that my new 383 stroker is thirsty. Anyone have any luck finding a supplier for these?

Are you looking for 1 1/4" on all 3?

Ill probably switch to thru hull pick up too. I threw away the bravo pump and put on a crank mounted Johnson. Yesterday I noticed that if I need to replace my serpentine belt, I would need to disconnect the water hoses from the pump, so water would probably be coming in. Id like to have a seacock to shutoff for belt changes and not have to ever worry about that choke point for the water flow in the transom too.

But, I believe that bravo does need water flow for cooling...

[aluxury1]

WOW, isee. Well the reason I am thinking my problem is the impeller at the seawater pump is that there has been a noticable change in cooling performance over just the last 3 times out. A deteriorating impeller. The boat is stored on dry land, so I hope I wouldn't be facing that problem, but I will certainly keep that in mind if the problem persists or the next time I need the outdrive off!

[Ruffryder]

Yup do a raw water volume test,

Bravo does need water flow for cooling...

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/technical-discussion/81162-temp-getting-warm#807189

[ron12512]

I took it to the shop and was told after they hooked the diagnostic tool to it that it was going into guardian mode at about 3600 RPM due to not enough water pressure. Had them change the impeller that looked brand new with a new one with no fix. I was then told that there was some kind of an obstruction through the out drive. Its getting some water so I want to leave in the original water supply but add a through hull. I am just looking to see if anyone has an idea that the internet doesnt know about for an 1-1/4 Y (not a tee)

Thanks

Ron

[Ruffryder]

the new impeller wasn't needed most likely...hard to believe that shop would just throw in an unnecessary part without doing a flow test B)

just wondering why an Y?

[builderdude]

Cooling water won't care weather it's a T or a Y. It'll likely pull from the path of least resistance so if ya want cooling flow through the drive then cut the hose between the gimbal housing and bell housing.

[aluxury1]

I was able to get all my 1 - 1/2" hardware for a water bypass at Harbor Marine in Everett, good prices!

[Pcpete]

Green650, if you do a thru hull pickup be sure to use an engine intake type fitting that has an external fitting like this,




ABSOLUTELY have a shut off. It's required by just about everybody.

Next you really want a strainer like one of these.







The strainer may seem like overkill but it's surprising how much they filter out that could get stuck in places you don't want to think about.


Attached files

[aluxury1]

how much air should be entering the system, visible in the 1 1/2 clear hose and strainer through the raw water pickup in the outdrive? I think the diameter of the fitting is 5/8:

[Pcpete]

I don't think there should be much air, imo. It sounds like there is a loose connection that's pulling air in.