160 THERMOSTATS-gctid808379

[bucluv]

Has anyone ever used a automobile 160 degree thermostat on there boat ? I have the 5.7 carb bravo 2 motors & been using automobile stats for some time now but change them every year & am able to reuse the same original gaskets for a few years before changing them. The price difference in stats is significant

[Amadaies]

I believe its 140 for marine/brackish water and you can use 160 for fresh water only.

[bucluv]

I don't think it matters what water your boating in it's the engine specifications on what degree thermostat you need mine calls for a 160

[Amadaies]

It does matter.

At 160 salt water/brackish water starts to form mineralization in your block and manifolds.

[builderdude]

Raw water cooled engine 140, closed cooled engine 160

[CptCrunchie]

"builderdude" post=808487 wrote:
......closed cooled engine 160

Oh my! 160. Is there a danger of using anything higher? I replaced mine, but I don't recall what I replaced with. Possibly a 175. It was running around 200 before I changed it, and now I'm in the 170's. Does that mean salt crystals in the heat exchanger?

[builderdude]

I run at 170 (at gauges) with a 160 t stat. You probably have a 160 in there.

[2850Bounty]

As a general rule:

Closed Cooling System = 160* and will run at/near 170* - 180*

Open system in river/lake water = 160* unless the ECU/ECM calls for a 140* max

Open system in ocean water = 140* due to salt crystallization that may occur at/near this temp.

The automotive stat is ok when used in a closed cooling system.

Some open system applications call for the SS Marine version.

.

[bucluv]

I have heard that logic before of using a 140 stat in salt ocean waters raw water cooling system. My book says to use a 160. And I'm pretty sure the engineers who went to school for x amount of years might be correct....just saying

[Redwngr]

Thermostat 'rating' is the temperature at which they will start to open

http://www.stant.com/index.php/english/products/consumer-products/thermostats/abcs-thermostats/

[2850Bounty]

"bucluv" post=809380 wrote:
I have heard that logic before of using a 140 stat in salt ocean waters raw water cooling system. My book says to use a 160. And I'm pretty sure the engineers who went to school for x amount of years might be correct....just saying

[color]blue wrote:
No offense...... but are you apposed to questioning the engineers who wrote the book... or better yet, the staff who edited the writing prior to publication?

Ocean water (salt water) begins to crystalize against cast iron components at temps exceeding 140*.

Salt crystalization can become very problematic years down the road.

Your call! [/color]

[bucluv]

No offense taken. ; ) I also hear some people say in the summertime they run without a thermostat I don't think that is good practice at all. Maybe I'll try the 1:40 stats is it better for your engines to run cooler like that?

[2850Bounty]

"bucluv" post=809459 wrote:
No offense taken. ; ) I also hear some people say in the summertime they run without a thermostat I don't think that is good practice at all. Maybe I'll try the 1:40 stats is it better for your engines to run cooler like that?

[color]blue wrote:
Several years ago, we had one member who claimed that one of his engines (in a Sea Ray) came from the factory without a thermostat. Most of us thought that he had to have been mistaken.

Engineers have determined that our typical Marine engines operate more efficiently at/near the 160*/180* mark.

Even the salt water engines operate better if the temps are at/near 160*/180*.... BUT, in order to avoid the salt crystallization, they bring the temps back down to the 140* ish range!

[/color]