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Bow Rail leak discovered-gctid807884

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    Bow Rail leak discovered-gctid807884

    Need some assistance - was down at boat this weekend and after a week of heavy rain we discovered we have a leak from what I believe is the bow rail - not a lot of water but enough to get headliner a little wet and stain it . I think I have figured out which one is leaking but need advice on how to seal it. the bolts are behind the headliner. how do I get the decorative piece off so I can get behind the headliner? Also found a leak in rub rail near the window which I will also seal.


    Attached files

    Harry
    Living for the Weekend
    2000 Bayliner 3055
    Cleveland, Ohio

    #2
    I had to cut the monkey fir to access my through bolts. A long time ago the wind caught my bow and push her into the bow of another boat, so my bow rail took a little hit. Not bad, but years later the fittings on the deck started to leak. So I replaced the fittings, caulked the heck out of the holes and fittings but still have a slight leak in one of them... good luck.

    Comment


      #3
      I'm having the same problem and question. It was suggested that the panel is attached with screws under the rub rail insert strip (what a PITA if it's true). I've looked over my panel and can find nothing that appears to be the fastening system on the inside of the boat. I'll be watching your post for definitive answer before I remove the rub rail insert strip.

      Mike
      2004 Bayliner 285 350 MPI Bravo III
      2007 Bayliner 192 Discovery 3.0 135HP (sold)
      2000 Ciera 2455 sold
      Redmond, Washington
      The one on the Left (Wet) Coast

      Comment


        #4
        CAPTAIN TOLLEY'S Crack Cure Sealant
        Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
        Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
        93 3058 sold
        92 2855 (day boat)
        91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
        Longbranch WA
        Life is Good

        Comment


          #5
          I actually bought a bottle of this over the winter - how and where do I apply in the screw holes or around the base ?
          Harry
          Living for the Weekend
          2000 Bayliner 3055
          Cleveland, Ohio

          Comment


            #6
            anyone know how to get that trim piece off ?
            Harry
            Living for the Weekend
            2000 Bayliner 3055
            Cleveland, Ohio

            Comment


              #7
              "expmg" post=808141 wrote:
              anyone know how to get that trim piece off ?
              I know exactly how to remove this trim piece as I just did mine to run a water line under there for my anchor wash project.

              The rub rail on the outside that covers the edge of the bottom and top halves houses the trim attach screws. You'll need to pry out the rubber from the rail along the section where the trim is. You'll find a bunch of philips head fasteners there. Three of them are actually long screws that extend thru the hull into the wood trim backing. The others are machine screws with nuts on the inside. You'll know which are which b/c the trim screws will back out, where the machine hull screws will just rotate. I resealed and tightened the hull screws and then the trim screws when reattaching the trim.

              [attachment]36124 wrote:
              IMAG1293.jpg[/attachment]


              Attached files

              Sea Venture
              2000 3055, 5.7/B2, 18x23" props
              Cruising the PNW and beyond.
              DIYC, Riverhouse Marina
              MMSI 316029971

              Kirk
              Drinks well with others.

              Comment


                #8
                Yup yup I've been trying to preach...
                Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                93 3058 sold
                92 2855 (day boat)
                91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                Longbranch WA
                Life is Good

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ok we are dealing with a recurring problem, the gunnel molding are held I place by rivets and screws the screws hold plywood strips wrapped with monkey fur, so in places where you can get to the rivets, seal around and the center of the rivet, on the outside seal the rivets, the screws back them out seal the threads 1/2 inch ore more then tighten them up . Reseal the top and bottom of the gunnel molding and re install the rubber strip. My preference is for 3M 4200 or 5200 as a sealer, just my thing. Good luck.
                  Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                  96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    so you think I should back the screw out a little and pour the Capt Tolleys on the thread of the screws - really don't want to have to take off the rub rail if it is not necessary
                    Harry
                    Living for the Weekend
                    2000 Bayliner 3055
                    Cleveland, Ohio

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "expmg" post=808208 wrote:
                      so you think I should back the screw out a little and pour the Capt Tolleys on the thread of the screws - really don't want to have to take off the rub rail if it is not necessary
                      Just the rubber portion gets removed to access the trim, not that big of a deal, really.
                      Sea Venture
                      2000 3055, 5.7/B2, 18x23" props
                      Cruising the PNW and beyond.
                      DIYC, Riverhouse Marina
                      MMSI 316029971

                      Kirk
                      Drinks well with others.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        OK to explain a bit more, first to make certain all the leaks have been stopped you will need to attack all of the gunnel at least on one side, I had leaks forward and in the aft bunk area so did all of the port side, so all of the rubber was pulled ( don't damage the rubber or aluminum), the crack sealer I think is too runny so that is why my recommendation is the 3M product Sikaflex has the 291 product there all in caulk gun format. You need a product that wraps its self around the threads and fills gaps as you screw things back together, you can protect the molding and FG. with masking tape prior to the seal step.
                        Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                        96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

                        Comment

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