Bow Rail leak discovered-gctid807884

[expmg]

Need some assistance - was down at boat this weekend and after a week of heavy rain we discovered we have a leak from what I believe is the bow rail - not a lot of water but enough to get headliner a little wet and stain it . I think I have figured out which one is leaking but need advice on how to seal it. the bolts are behind the headliner. how do I get the decorative piece off so I can get behind the headliner? Also found a leak in rub rail near the window which I will also seal.


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[Guest]

I had to cut the monkey fir to access my through bolts. A long time ago the wind caught my bow and push her into the bow of another boat, so my bow rail took a little hit. Not bad, but years later the fittings on the deck started to leak. So I replaced the fittings, caulked the heck out of the holes and fittings but still have a slight leak in one of them... good luck.

[flyman219]

I'm having the same problem and question. It was suggested that the panel is attached with screws under the rub rail insert strip (what a PITA if it's true). I've looked over my panel and can find nothing that appears to be the fastening system on the inside of the boat. I'll be watching your post for definitive answer before I remove the rub rail insert strip.

Mike

[Ruffryder]

CAPTAIN TOLLEY'S Crack Cure Sealant

[expmg]

I actually bought a bottle of this over the winter - how and where do I apply in the screw holes or around the base ?

[expmg]

anyone know how to get that trim piece off ?

[SprinterX]

"expmg" post=808141 wrote:
anyone know how to get that trim piece off ?

I know exactly how to remove this trim piece as I just did mine to run a water line under there for my anchor wash project.

The rub rail on the outside that covers the edge of the bottom and top halves houses the trim attach screws. You'll need to pry out the rubber from the rail along the section where the trim is. You'll find a bunch of philips head fasteners there. Three of them are actually long screws that extend thru the hull into the wood trim backing. The others are machine screws with nuts on the inside. You'll know which are which b/c the trim screws will back out, where the machine hull screws will just rotate. I resealed and tightened the hull screws and then the trim screws when reattaching the trim.

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[Ruffryder]

Yup yup I've been trying to preach...

[fritzman]

Ok we are dealing with a recurring problem, the gunnel molding are held I place by rivets and screws the screws hold plywood strips wrapped with monkey fur, so in places where you can get to the rivets, seal around and the center of the rivet, on the outside seal the rivets, the screws back them out seal the threads 1/2 inch ore more then tighten them up . Reseal the top and bottom of the gunnel molding and re install the rubber strip. My preference is for 3M 4200 or 5200 as a sealer, just my thing. Good luck.

[expmg]

so you think I should back the screw out a little and pour the Capt Tolleys on the thread of the screws - really don't want to have to take off the rub rail if it is not necessary

[SprinterX]

"expmg" post=808208 wrote:
so you think I should back the screw out a little and pour the Capt Tolleys on the thread of the screws - really don't want to have to take off the rub rail if it is not necessary

Just the rubber portion gets removed to access the trim, not that big of a deal, really.

[fritzman]

OK to explain a bit more, first to make certain all the leaks have been stopped you will need to attack all of the gunnel at least on one side, I had leaks forward and in the aft bunk area so did all of the port side, so all of the rubber was pulled ( don't damage the rubber or aluminum), the crack sealer I think is too runny so that is why my recommendation is the 3M product Sikaflex has the 291 product there all in caulk gun format. You need a product that wraps its self around the threads and fills gaps as you screw things back together, you can protect the molding and FG. with masking tape prior to the seal step.