99 Capri questions in Colorado.-gctid805133

[Buffblazer]

Hello all, new to the forum and seeking some advice.

I am part of a few vehicle forums so I know the "should I buy it" question can get old, however I have a little different take on my situation.

Due to a passing in my family, I have the opportunity to purchase a 99 Capri 2050 with the 4.3 motor for $4000. The boat is in pretty dang good shape and is clean for being 18 years old.

The little bit of research I have done leads me to believe that this makes it a SS? Or am I mistaken? Would a 7.5/10 boat conditioning warrant $4000? Or is that a little steep? It's hard to judge looking online since you can find a million boats out east or west but here in Colorado boating it common but not everyone's thing.

Before I get into the technical part of my questions, I want to mention that I do not have any real boating experience (been on the water plenty of times but was only the operator after it was off the trailer on a few occasions.

) I live in northern Colorado and have horsetooth reservoir 20 mins from me. My goal is to use it as an all around tubing boat, fishing boat and just cruising boat. For sticking around local and for what I would be doing, how does this boat do for newbies and for reliability? I would like to be able to just take off on a Friday or Saturday and put it in the water for a few hours to over night.

Not really interested in a money pit. I read that bayliner quality has been questioned but I wanted to hear about it from people who actually own them and not just haters.

I have been tasked with preparing it to be sold if I do not decide to purchase it myself which I think is great because I will know the boat in and out before I make my decision.

My mechanical background is pretty good but boats are a lot different than corvettes and 4wd systems.

It is in pretty decent shape for how old it is. Had been in the family since new and is low on the hours . It was last in the water in 2015 and was winterized but the gas was left in without any knowledge if an addative was added. So I will be draining the fuel, and the battery was removed so I will be replacing it.

So my standout questions,

What are the problem areas to look for?

What is the service intervals on the drive gear lube? It's halfway full but not sure if it's ever been changed.

The clear coat is fading, recommendations?

Tips to changing the oil without it going everywhere? Hard to not be able to crawl under something and just drop a plug. Can't seem to figure out what kind of pan or bucket would fit to allow the oil out without it going everywhere.

Mechanical background but feel free to treat me like a newbie, I would rather be told something I already know than miss something because it was assumed I knew it.

Added the only photo I have right now. Taken today. She is a little dirty.

Appreciate all the help in advance.


Attached files

[Chief_Alen]

Welcome Aboard !

I will include a link below for a free d / l to the manual you need this !

First it's not alot of money for what it is, and i sense you want to keep it in the family.

Before starting the boat, know this you must have water going to the drive everytime you start the engine, EVERYTIME !

Ok first things first, the impeller should be changed out and the shift shaft bushing changed at the same time, the lower drive has to be removed, with the gear selector ( controller ) in forward.

The lower must be upside down level and cannot move. to change the shift shaft bushing, i use my shop vice.

Drain the drive, while still together, remove the lowest plug, and then remove the top most plug, the drive should be fully down. You may have to pull the trailer onto a few flat pieces of wood to achieve the drive fully down.

With the gear selector in forward remove the lower drive. You can crank down the bow as far as it will go and raise the drive to aide in removing the lower.

Look in the manual how to achieve all of what i post.

Change out the impeller with housing, and the bushing, use a drop of grease on the little o ring to keep in place and reinstall the lower.

Lower the drive fully and fill with the hi performance gear lube as per the manual, from the bottom plug. Let the drive burp i let sit for a couple hours with the bottom plug in.

Ok to the engine and fuel system.

Raise the bow, remove the battery or disconnect, remove the fuel pickup tube, and suck all the fuel out of the tank. follow the hose every turn, can be clogged and the sep can have the channels clogged, take the element off discard, and run a stiff wire thru the channels, you want a clean fuel system to the carb, there is a screen in the fitting that enters the carb.

Clean system, i would change the engine oil, and filter. Yea it's messy, you could install a remote change hose to the pan, your choice, but for now ill continue,

Engine oil changed new impeller in the drive, i would hook up a external tank of fuel to the hose that you remove from the tank, and pump the handle 3 times, in neutral, out of gear, with the throttle 1/3 of the way advanced crank her.

Se might not start so 3 seconds crank, let sit a minute, pump, and crank.

If you install the fuel filter element with fuel in it, will make this go faster.

I use starter fluid with oil in it, or you could use a few table spoons of gas down the throat of the carb to get her going.

Be safe.

I'm sure others with chime in.

You need this pull up the manual you need, you might need to use the arrows on your keyboard to navigate the site.

http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser17.html#/4

Hope i helped a little ... it's a fine boat i just looked at the exact model at a PA lake.

[Kiwi68]

The SS model has bucket seats with a bench seat along the back, just in front of the engine.

The LS has back to back seats with a seat each side of the engine.

The boat stringers / floor can rot if the floor remains wet for periods of time. As there is no finished fibre glassed surface beneath the carport.

These boats should be kept under cover.

I drop the engine oil out when it is hot, bow raised.

My boat is insured for $30K here in New Zealand (so much more expensive down under)

[w3bexec]

Hi there,

I'm in Greeley and just got my first boat, a 1996 Capri 1950 in very good condition. Same engine as you. I shopped around for a couple months and right now, in the condition you describe, $4000 sounds like a steal. Especially if they are including some gear with it (anchor, lines, jackets, etc.) although I would still probably buy it if they weren't. That boat could easily go for $6000 to $6900.

If it has nothing with it and you are starting from scratch you can expect to drop about $6-900 into gear if buying new.

[Buffblazer]

"Chief Alen" post=805150 wrote:
Welcome Aboard !

I will include a link below for a free d / l to the manual you need this !

Thank you! I appreciate that. Looks like it will be a lot of help.

Ok first things first, the impeller should be changed out and the shift shaft bushing changed at the same time.

I take it the impeller is a wear item? What happens if it breaks?

.

I also noticed it had a rack and pinion steering system. It has a little bit of play left to right, on these systems is that normal or should there be no play at all?

[Buffblazer]

"Kiwi68" post=805154 wrote:
The SS model has bucket seats with a bench seat along the back, just in front of the engine.

The LX has back to back seats with a seat each side of the engine.

The boat stringers / floor can rot if the floor remains wet for periods of time. As there is no finished fibre glassed surface beneath the carport.

These boats should be kept under cover.

I drop the engine oil out when it is hot, bow raised.

My boat is insured for $30K here in New Zealand (so much more expensive down under)

i have the buckets with the bench so I guess it is a SS. I believe it has been covered it's entire life but I will check out the floor. Thank you

[Buffblazer]

"w3bexec" post=805328 wrote:
Hi there,

I'm in Greeley and just got my first boat, a 1996 Capri 1950 in very good condition. Same engine as you. I shopped around for a couple months and right now, in the condition you describe, $4000 sounds like a steal. Especially if they are including some gear with it (anchor, lines, jackets, etc.) although I would still probably buy it if they weren't. That boat could easily go for $6000 to $6900.

If it has nothing with it and you are starting from scratch you can expect to drop about $6-900 into gear if buying new.

Hello in Greeley! Lived in Evans for a few years

I know it comes with plenty of life jackets, a tube, roe and fenders. Not sure about anything else. Where do you plan to put your boat? Looking at other options besides horsetooth.

[Chief_Alen]

Maybe the bolts / screws are loose holding the box.

The impeller is in the drive provides raw water to cool the engine, if the impeller breaks up the loose pieces can and will restrict cooling to the engine.

Every 2 years the impeller needs to be changed out.

I change out the entire housing, Few bucks more .

[Buffblazer]

Thank you again for the help, the manual was a great start for locating everything. I am not able to figure out which battery (Its missing) and where I should find filter numbers at.

[Chief_Alen]

oil filter ?

PH3387A

I paint them with black rustoleum spray professional, 2 coats maybe more.

Marine battery i like Interstate costco has them now....

375 cca/

475 mca/ 90 Ah

[Buffblazer]

whoops yes I meant Oil and fuel filter. I tried to cross reference it with the 4.3 truck filter but was not sure if it uses a different one. I will look that filter up and grab the battery.

Thanks for all the help, Like the support this site offers.

[Chief_Alen]

Depending on the fuel filter holder you may find everything you need at Wal-mart i do. Or did .

[Guest]

"Kiwi68" post=805154 wrote:
The SS model has bucket seats with a bench seat along the back, just in front of the engine.

The LX has back to back seats with a seat each side of the engine.

The boat stringers / floor can rot if the floor remains wet for periods of time. As there is no finished fibre glassed surface beneath the carport.

These boats should be kept under cover.

I drop the engine oil out when it is hot, bow raised.

My boat is insured for $30K here in New Zealand (so much more expensive down under)

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but, my boat is a 1999 2050 LS. It has back-to-back seating with a seat on each side of the engine cover. What's the difference in the SS, LS, LX?

[Kiwi68]

I have corrected my original post with reference to "LX" This should have been "LS". Sorry for any miss understanding.

Upon further research there are four models around the 1999 - 2000. they are:

2050CL (CY) 2050LS (CX) 2050SE (BX) These are all back to back seats with a single seat each side of the engine.

2050SS (CZ) This model has the bucket seat with the bench seat in front of the motor

[Guest]

"Kiwi68" post=806080 wrote:
I have corrected my original post with reference to "LX" This should have been "LS". Sorry for any miss understanding.

Upon further research there are four models around the 1999 - 2000. they are:

2050CL (CY) 2050LS (CX) 2050SE (BX) These are all back to back seats with a single seat each side of the engine.

2050SS (CZ) This model has the bucket seat with the bench seat in front of the motor

Interesting. Thank you much.