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Why are my trailer Bearings failing-gctid395462

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    Why are my trailer Bearings failing-gctid395462

    My trailer is an Ezloader dual axle with torsion suspension, a few weeks ago I had a wheel come off while launching and found the bearing on that wheel had disintegrated, lucky it came off on the ramp and not while driving down the Hwy. I replaced the bearings and seal, packed the bearing and installed a bearing buddy and I thought that was the end of the problem. I was driving to the launch ramp today and a nice guy on a motor cycle waved me down and said there was smoke coming from the trailer. I checked it out and found the same wheel had the bearing fail the same way. I was very surprised to have this happen so soon, as I only had about 40 miles on the trailer since the initial repair.

    Does anyone have any idea why this happened, one thing I was thinking is the nut may not have been tight enough. I am worried it will happen again. One thing I notice is there is a lot of sideway pressure on the wheels when turning sharp while lunching and parking and I wonder if this pressure is causing the bearing to come apart.
    1997 2355
    5.7 liter Alpha 1 Gen 2

    Ladysmith Vancouver Island

    #2
    first of all a bearing buddy on an EZ-lube axle is the worst you can do to your bearings. These EZ-lube axles work a lot better than the bearing buddy which should be called rear-seal-killer.

    Did you check your spindle before you installed the new bearings? If it has grooves or flat spots the new bearings are killed in no time.

    Did you seat the bearings correctly? You have to tighten the castle nut pretty tight while rotating the wheel You shouldn't b e able to turn the wheel with one hand!) and then back it off 1/4 turn (max 1/2 turn!) and insert the cotter pin into next hole.

    Did you pack the new bearing correctly? Really work the grease into the rollers!. After the hub is mounted push grease into the center zerk fitting until it comes out at the front while rotating the wheel all the time.

    In my opinion you have the best possible setup with such a trailer! The only thing I dislike are the torsion arms sold in North America: far to short. The funny thing is that there's a German manufacturer Al-Ko which sells the right ones (200mm) in Europe and the crappy ones (5-6") in NA......

    Comment


      #3
      I grease my bearings twice a season and I use an Infrared temperature gun to check the bearing temps whenever I stop, be it at the ramp, home or someplace in between.

      When you have a bad bearing that is as bad as you stated, you need to also change out the race as that has a set based on the old bearings. Lots of youtube vids on how to do. Also never use different color grease as most are not compatible. They will quickly break down and you end up with no lube at all and failed bearings. Using different color bearing grease is not like adding a different weight oil to your car...

      I put together a quick how to change bearings and races:

      http://www.doug-cook.com/goaweightotrailer.htm
      Doug ;}
      MMSI: 338068776
      "Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)


      sigpic

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        #4
        I also have a double axle EZ Loader under my other boat [Glasply]. Try phoning EZ Loader in Spokane. Give them your trailer registration number and they will tell you which bearings, races and seals you should be using. I was told that I should not be using the generic brand seal but instead the factory recommended one which is a slightly different size. You can get them at Sherwood Marine in Victoria.
        1989 Bayliner 2950
        twin 5.7 OMC's with cobra legs

        Comment


          #5
          One thing that can help is that after replacing the bearings go for a couple mile drive with the trailer. Recheck the bearings for heat and for seating properly. Readjust as necessary.

          One problem could be you torsion axles. If its failing or loaded improprely it could be weighting one bearing more than another and stressing it
          1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
          twin 454's
          MV Mar-Y-Sol
          1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
          Twin chevy 350's inboard
          Ben- Jamin
          spokane Washington

          Comment


            #6
            Mike said that his trailer is an EZ Loader, but did not mention which spindles. Since it's torsion axles, I'd bet that they are some form of EZ Lube, Sure Lube, Super Lube, etc.

            Why there would be Bearing Buddies on this style spindle, I'm not sure.

            I'd pull that hub and look to see if it has cracked at one time.

            Other than perhaps incorrect initial pre-load, incorrect race installation, lack of lubrication, or water intrusion, that's about the only thing that may cause tapered roller bearing failure.

            Ditto changing both the outer race and roller cage assembly at the same time. We do not want to run a new roller cage against a pre-run outer race.

            FYI: Turning tight radius' with a multiple axle trailer on a hard surface, is not good for our axles/spindles/hubs.

            Try to avoid doing this, if you can. Instead, make large radius turns if possible.

            BTW, most of these tapered roller bearings are industry standard, so there is no need to purchase via the trailer manufacturer.

            Any good major bearing supplier should have them in stock.

            Just match the industry standard number that will be etched into the bearing.

            Always verify the seal fit onto the spindle seal surface before installing them.

            There should be approximately .030" difference between the spindle OD and seal ID... iow, a .030" squeeze onto the seal surface.

            yachtman wrote:
            One problem could be you torsion axles. If its failing or loaded improprely it could be weighting one bearing more than another and stressing it.
            Yep, multiple torsion axles are pretty lousy at load sharing, since they lack the rocker arm geometry.

            This means that the trailer frame must be pretty darn level with the road surface, or we end up loading one axle greater than the other.

            .
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks guys for the help! Great response as ususal!

              Mike
              1997 2355
              5.7 liter Alpha 1 Gen 2

              Ladysmith Vancouver Island

              Comment


                #8
                It is also worth checking the brand of bearing that you are fitting.

                Stay away from any Chinese bearings.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Danny wrote:
                  Stay away from any Chinese bearings.
                  you mean the "rubber steel stuff" where stainless steal also rusts? VERY difficult in the US! Most stuff with a US brand name on it is.....

                  you guessed it: Made in China

                  The sad thing is that a lot of companies don't even design their product any more and only manufacture there with some level of quality control. They just buy from a Chinese supplier and as others shop there too you get the same "unique" product from a dozen of "Brand Name Companies" or for a fraction of the price on ebay.

                  I agree, if you can get an SKF bearing you are fine but only if it's made in Europe. They also sell junk in the US which they wouldn't risk to sell in their home area.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I spent some time today pulling the whole thing apart and I feel the problem was cause by a seized brake on the one wheel, when it happened this second time the wheel was smoking hot and that is what probably led to the bearing failing. I am replacing all 4 brake assys and rebuilding the actuator so other than lines I will have new brakes.

                    FWIW I talked to the part supplier today and he told me all they can get are Chinnese bearings.
                    1997 2355
                    5.7 liter Alpha 1 Gen 2

                    Ladysmith Vancouver Island

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You can get good bearings from your local NAPA dealer or other auto supply store. Nothing Marine about them and they carry good ones if you ask...
                      Doug ;}
                      MMSI: 338068776
                      "Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)


                      sigpic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I purchase industry standard bearings quite often and I routinely avoid any and all Chineese bearings.

                        If I can avoid them, the rest of you can also.

                        Go directly to a major bearing supplier, not the auto parts stores!
                        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Mike A wrote:
                          I spent some time today pulling the whole thing apart and I feel the problem was cause by a seized brake on the one wheel, when it happened this second time the wheel was smoking hot and that is what probably led to the bearing failing. I am replacing all 4 brake assys and rebuilding the actuator so other than lines I will have new brakes.

                          FWIW I talked to the part supplier today and he told me all they can get are Chinese bearings.
                          If you change anyhow consider disk brakes! Much easier to service, no alignment needed and a lot better braking power. They run a bit hotter to start with but only a bit and they don't just seize up and burn the rest. You most likely have to replace your tire soon too as they don't like heat either.

                          If your supplier can only source Chinese bearings change the supplier. The non-Chinese are more expensive but in this case it's really true: you get what you pay for. If it has a brand name on the box, check the "Made in ...." as there are some major brands reselling Chinese crap.

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