Just bought a 1983 Bayliner 2450 Ciera Command Bridge-gctid394445

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Hello Everyone.

I'm a newbie here, but I just wanted to say hello, and ask a few questions.

My wife was bugging me to find a "kid friendly" boat, so I went looking around and found a 1983 Bayliner Command Bridge.

The boat is great, we took it out for a sea test, and it ran awesome. The interior is like new, and it is beautiful outside. It has a 5.7l 350 220HP, with Volvo penta outdrive. It's just shy of 800 hours, and the person I bought it from told me that he was the 2nd owner, and it was meticulously maintained.

I noticed when I went out for the sea trial it had good pickup, and planed out quick, but, only if you had the trim tabs down. Otherwise it took while for it to get the nose down. Is this normal for this type of boat? Is that a sign of a tired engine? I'm not sure what size prop it has, but if you guys have any recommendation I can go check that out.

I'm just curious. I paid 3500.00, so I don't mind dropping a couple thousand on a crate engine and throwing it in there myself. But I thought I'd ask some other Bayliner owners if this is normal before I did that.

Thanks for any support you guys can offer!

[itsabowtime2 Moderator Emeritus Find all posts View Profile Close itsabowtime2]

Welcome to BOC.

As far as getting her up on plane, you want to use your tabs to push the bow down as quickly as possible, then adjust them once up to reduce the wetted surface (drag). It is very nornal for a boat that size to take longer to get up on plane when not using the tabs.

As far as prop size, if the engine is in tune, the hull clean and you are reaching max RPM's at WOT then the boat has the correct prop on it.

Enjoy the new boat.

And of this is your new boat, take a boaters ed. class.

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itsabowtime2 wrote:
Welcome to BOC.

As far as getting her up on plane, you want to use your tabs to push the bow down as quickly as possible, then adjust them once up to reduce the wetted surface (drag). It is very nornal for a boat that size to take longer to get up on plane when not using the tabs.

As far as prop size, if the engine is in tune, the hull clean and you are reaching max RPM's at WOT then the boat has the correct prop on it.

Enjoy the new boat.

And of this is your new boat, take a boaters ed. class.

Thanks for the reply. That's what I wanted to hear! I'll continue to use the trim tabs to get it on plane, and back off like you said.

This isn't my first boat, but my first cabin cruiser. I currently have a 19' with a 200merc, and recently sold my 31' with twin 250hp, but those are a whole different story as far as power, and weight.

Thanks again for the reply! I'll be hanging around here, so you will probably see a lot more posts from me.

[itsabowtime2 Moderator Emeritus Find all posts View Profile Close itsabowtime2]

eOrchestrato wrote:
Thanks for the reply. That's what I wanted to hear! I'll continue to use the trim tabs to get it on plane, and back off like you said.

This isn't my first boat, but my first cabin cruiser. I currently have a 19' with a 200merc, and recently sold my 31' with twin 250hp, but those are a whole different story as far as power, and weight.

Thanks again for the reply! I'll be hanging around here, so you will probably see a lot more posts from me.

Cool.

And I think you got that boat for a song!!

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Ditto, that sounds like a sweet deal if it is in as good a shape as you said. Pictures please when you get a chance. Good luck with it, and welcome here! Joe

[2850Bounty Supporting Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2850Bounty]

Yes, welcome to the BOC.

My son and daughter-in-law own the same boat (actually a 1985 I believe) 2450 SDN F/B boat.

Theirs has the 5.8L Ford, and was purchased with a single prop drive.

It too would struggle to get up on step.

We installed a Duo Prop lower unit, and the boat is now an entirely different performer.

As said, use the TT's and get used to them.

These are narrow TT Planes, so it may require more Tab IN than what you may think it needs.

Make sure that the tachometer is accurate, the engine is tuned correctly, and perform a WOT RPM test to make sure that you are propped correctly.

Since this is new-to-you, do not assume that the PO has done all maintenance. Many owners are not aware of, or pay close attention to, the Volvo Penta PDS bearings. They are seldom serviced, and if/when these were to let go, serious damage can occur.

Just an FYI on that.

See the BOC Vault for AQ series Volvo Penta related questions and answers.

.

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/698272=29087-Ryans 2450.jpg[/img]

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Not to barge in on this thread, but I love that 2850! Do you trailer it, or I should ask, does it require special permits?

Boyce

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rampeyboy wrote:
Not to barge in on this thread, but I love that 2850! Do you trailer it, or I should ask, does it require special permits?

Boyce

The boat pictured is my son's 2450.

Mine is the 2850, and yes, I do trailer it.

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2850Bounty wrote:
Yes, welcome to the BOC.

My son and daughter-in-law own the same boat (actually a 1985 I believe) 2450 SDN F/B boat.

Theirs has the 5.8L Ford, and was purchased with a single prop drive.

It too would struggle to get up on step.

We installed a Duo Prop lower unit, and the boat is now an entirely different performer.

As said, use the TT's and get used to them.

These are narrow TT Planes, so it may require more Tab IN than what you may think it needs.

Make sure that the tachometer is accurate, the engine is tuned correctly, and perform a WOT RPM test to make sure that you are propped correctly.

Since this is new-to-you, do not assume that the PO has done all maintenance. Many owners are not aware of, or pay close attention to, the Volvo Penta PDS bearings. They are seldom serviced, and if/when these were to let go, serious damage can occur.

Just an FYI on that.

http://"http://www.baylinerownersclu...d answers.</b>

.

Thanks everyone for the info.

I'll definitely look into tha PDS bearing.

This boat in particular has the single type prob, and it also has one of those "lock in" type outdrives. The guy told me I have to lock it in in order to get reverse to engage without the outdrive flopping out of the water. I thought that was a bit odd, but since the price was right (for me at least) I didn't nit pick too much.

I sold the 2nd aluminum trailer he gave me yesterday (for some reason he had two, and he gave them both to me) for 1000 bucks. I was surprised how quickly it sold. I found a West Marine "Carry On" a/c unit for 200 bucks on craigslist. I'm going to use it in the hatch by the fly bridge and route the wirre down into the engine compartment.

Someone mentioned to me I should change out my trim tabs to the self adjusting gas powered type. What do you guys think about that?

I'm also trying to figure out what type of generator setup I want. There are so much stuff to buy and play with when owning one of these boats.

[dktool Guru Find all posts View Profile Close dktool]

someone mentioned to me i should change out my trim tabs to the self adjusting gas powered type. What do you guys think about that?

[size]7 wrote:
no ![/size]

[2850Bounty Supporting Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2850Bounty]

eOrchestrato wrote:

• 1 wrote:
• I'll definitely look into tha PDS bearing.
• This boat in particular has the single type prob, and it also has one of those "lock in" type outdrives. The guy told me I have to lock it in in order to get reverse to engage without the outdrive flopping out of the water. I thought that was a bit odd, but since the price was right (for me at least) I didn't nit pick too much.
• I found a West Marine "Carry On" a/c unit for 200 bucks on craigslist. I'm going to use it in the hatch by the fly bridge and route the wirre down into the engine compartment.
• Someone mentioned to me I should change out my trim tabs to the self adjusting gas powered type. What do you guys think about that?
• I'm also trying to figure out what type of generator setup I want. There are so much stuff to buy and play with when owning one of these boats.

• 1 wrote:
• If you do this, you will never know just how much grief I will have saved you by talking you into doing it.
  
  1 #6206, 1 #6007 bearing, 2 35x62x7mm Timken or TCM seals, and a tube of good high pressure bearing grease.
• Stick around.... we can help you though any issues that you may have.
• Two suggestions:
  • Focus on getting the boat in operating condition before you begin to go in other directions.
  • Do not route any AC current into your engine bay until you learn more about how we handle AC current on our boats.
• As per Dean...... [SIZE]4 wrote:
  NO![/SIZE]
  
  Stay with the hydraulic style trim tabs for this size hull.
• See #3 above.
  
  There will be plenty of time for these other items.

And have fun with the project!

.

[dktool Guru Find all posts View Profile Close dktool]

Rick,

Are these numbers :

1 #6206, 1 #6007 bearing, 2 35x62x7mm Timken or TCM seals

the same ones I would use on my AQ170 / 270 ?

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2850Bounty wrote:

• 1 wrote:
• If you do this, you will never know just how much grief I will have saved you by talking you into doing it.
  
  1 #6206, 1 #6007 bearing, 2 35x62x7mm Timken or TCM seals, and a tube of good high pressure bearing grease.
• Stick around.... we can help you though any issues that you may have.
• Two suggestions:
  • Focus on getting the boat in operating condition before you begin to go in other directions.
  • Do not route any AC current into your engine bay until you learn more about how we handle AC current on our boats.
• As per Dean...... [SIZE]4 wrote:
  NO![/SIZE]
  
  Stay with the hydraulic style trim tabs for this size hull.
• See #3 above.
  
  There will be plenty of time for these other items.

And have fun with the project!

.

Hey, thanks for the info. I took it down and asked my father inlaw's neighbor if he could replace them, and he said he'd do it for me one day if I dropped the boat off in his front yard.

On the 2nd part I did buy the a/c unit, and I put it over the flybridge hatch. Someone must have had the same setup before because very conveniently there was an electrical outet on the roof! It was a perfect location!. I let it run all night and half the day and the thermometer read 71 degrees. Not bad for a 4000btu unit.

Remember before I was mentioning my boat doesn't want to plane out? Well someone brought it to my attention I have a 14.5 24P L prop on there. THey said I might want to find a 17P - 19P to replace it! ALSO.. They told me it was a 350 5.7, and my dad thinks it's a 305. It has 225HP, so that doesn't sound right for a 350ci. Who knows?

[2850Bounty Supporting Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2850Bounty]

dktool wrote:
Rick, Are these numbers : 1 #6206, 1 #6007 bearing, 2 35x62x7mm Timken or TCM seals

the same ones I would use on my AQ170 / 270 ?

Those numbers work for any OEM V-8 double bearing PDS.

The AQ170, I believe, uses a single bearing PDS, in which case the 6206 is used, and if there is grease port, it will be the std 6206 "open" bearing.

Yes, the Timken or TCM are rubber encapsulated.

The fwd seal is not the 62mm......, I'd have to look that one up for you.

Aft seal is the 62mm.

eOrchestrato wrote:

• 1 wrote:
• I took it down and asked my father inlaw's neighbor if he could replace them, and he said he'd do it for me one day if I dropped the boat off in his front yard.
• Remember before I was mentioning my boat doesn't want to plane out? Well someone brought it to my attention I have a 14.5 24P L prop on there. THey said I might want to find a 17P - 19P to replace it! ALSO..
• They told me it was a 350 5.7, and my dad thinks it's a 305. It has 225HP, so that doesn't sound right for a 350ci. Who knows?

• 1 wrote:
• With this flywheel cover and double bearing PDS, the engine needs to come out, or at least forward and sideways.
  
  You need access to the fwd side of the PDS.
  
  Look in the BOC Vault at my http://"http://www.baylinerownersclu...&#39;s thread.
  
  There should be a link to threads explaining this.
  
  Good news is..... you'll do this once ONLY....., and if you keep these serviced, you won't be doing it again for 15 years or so.
• There is no way that this boat will be able to spin a 24" pitch prop. It is grossly over-propped.
  
  You'll have the option for 15" and 16" diameter propellers if you have the 275 or 280 lower unit.
  
  I'm suspect of the 24" pitch prop and final drive ratio. People make the mistake of installing the 1.89:1 lower unit on these.
  
  I'd pull the prop, remove the ring anode, brush off the aft-most face of the prop shaft bearing carrier, and look for the factory stamped ratio.
  
  It will generally be a 3 digit number, omitting the ":1" ... I OW, if it's the correct ratio, it will read "1.61", instead of "1.61:1".
  
  If it reads 1.89 or 2.15, you have an incorrect ratio, which may explain the 24" pitch prop.
  
  Your engine determines the final drive ratio, of which for you means the 1.61:1 (single prop), and the 1.95:1 (duo prop).
• Any of the Pre-1987 engines are a bit more difficult to determine the displacement.
  
  Take down the engine block casting number, and do a Google search "SBC engine block casting numbers".
  
  Post-1986, the displacement is cast into the block..... port side/rear. Should read "5.0" or "5.7".
  
  The 225HP was typically the 5.0L with a Quadrajet carburetor, and was the AQ225.
  
  The 260HP was typically the 5.7L (also Quadrajet carburetor), and was the AQ260.
  
  If this is the 225HP, you'll eventually need the DP lower unit to get it to perform.

As mentioned, my son and his family have the 2450 SDN F/B just like yours. It's a great boat, and they have enjoyed it.

It is slightly different from yours in that theirs has the 5.8L Ford and the Duo Prop lower unit.

.

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2850Bounty wrote:
Those numbers work for any OEM V-8 double bearing PDS.

The AQ170, I believe, uses a single bearing PDS, in which case the 6206 is used, and if there is grease port, it will be the std 6206 "open" bearing.

Yes, the Timken or TCM are rubber encapsulated.

The fwd seal is not the 62mm......, I'd have to look that one up for you.

Aft seal is the 62mm.

• 1 wrote:
• With this flywheel cover and double bearing PDS, the engine needs to come out, or at least forward and sideways.
  
  You need access to the fwd side of the PDS.
  
  Look in the BOC Vault at my http://"http://www.baylinerownersclu...&#39;s thread.
  
  There should be a link to threads explaining this.
  
  Good news is..... you'll do this once ONLY....., and if you keep these serviced, you won't be doing it again for 15 years or so.
• There is no way that this boat will be able to spin a 24" pitch prop. It is grossly over-propped.
  
  You'll have the option for 15" and 16" diameter propellers if you have the 275 or 280 lower unit.
  
  I'm suspect of the 24" pitch prop and final drive ratio. People make the mistake of installing the 1.89:1 lower unit on these.
  
  I'd pull the prop, remove the ring anode, brush off the aft-most face of the prop shaft bearing carrier, and look for the factory stamped ratio.
  
  It will generally be a 3 digit number, omitting the ":1" ... I OW, if it's the correct ratio, it will read "1.61", instead of "1.61:1".
  
  If it reads 1.89 or 2.15, you have an incorrect ratio, which may explain the 24" pitch prop.
  
  Your engine determines the final drive ratio, of which for you means the 1.61:1 (single prop), and the 1.95:1 (duo prop).
• Any of the Pre-1987 engines are a bit more difficult to determine the displacement.
  
  Take down the engine block casting number, and do a Google search "SBC engine block casting numbers".
  
  Post-1986, the displacement is cast into the block..... port side/rear. Should read "5.0" or "5.7".
  
  The 225HP was typically the 5.0L with a Quadrajet carburetor, and was the AQ225.
  
  The 260HP was typically the 5.7L (also Quadrajet carburetor), and was the AQ260.
  
  If this is the 225HP, you'll eventually need the DP lower unit to get it to perform.

As mentioned, my son and his family have the 2450 SDN F/B just like yours. It's a great boat, and they have enjoyed it.

It is slightly different from yours in that theirs has the 5.8L Ford and the Duo Prop lower unit.

.

Thanks for the info. I told our neighbor yesterday and he seemed to know what you were talking about. He actually owned the exact same boat a while ago, and he said he's replaced them before. I'm going over there tonight to start the project with him, check that prop ratio, and fix a tire that went flat. lol. Man, the problems continue to pile up!

It's fine though - I will be happy when we're all said and done.

I really appreciate yours and everyone else's response to my questions!