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    #16
    ronlord wrote:
    We just use a quarter inch line through the chain then tied off on the port and starboard cleats to secure the anchor. Simple, but it works and won't cost you anything.
    I had my anchor break free - got REAL lucky it went straight down and I threw the boat into N at the same time it happened.

    Ever since then, I have a cleat right on the bow right next to the anchor line - I "figure 8 and invert" the chain on the cleat. That line ain't coming free for nothing!

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      #17
      I have the Lewmar 700 pro series windlass; I use a lock on the highways when trailering. I use a rubber bungee around the anchor and pulpit when on water; this keeps the anchor from bouncing around and an unwanted release. I have my windlass clutch tightened in as much as possible for my chain and my windlass doesn't seem to loosen ever.

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        #18
        +1 on some kind of security for the anchor. I use a carbineer attached to a ›" line and tie it off to the cleat on top on my winch.

        Before you go out and buy new chain you should check the gypsy to see what it calls for. It should be stamped on it.

        The 45's and 47's came with 5/16" chain. Mine has 3/8" put on by the PO.

        Is your winch installation is aftermarket?

        I think 3/8" is overkill for the weight of your boat.

        Attaching the rode to the chain isn't hard. I've done it a few times.

        I have instructions for doing it that are easy to follow.

        I'm about to get on a plane right now so I'll post it later.

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          #19
          There are plenty of instructional site to show you how to do the splice. Once you know how you can make your dock line eyes also.

          A short piece of line from the anchor to a cleat will make the anchor safe.

          I agree with tightening up the windlass clutch.

          If the chain was slipping it would be obvious.
          Jim McNeely
          New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
          Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
          Brighton, Michigan USA
          MMSI # 367393410

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            #20
            ronlord wrote:
            We just use a quarter inch line through the chain then tied off on the port and starboard cleats to secure the anchor. Simple, but it works and won't cost you anything.
            this is the same thing I do, I have a 25" of 1/4 braid tied to the chain and then have a small designated cleat for quick tie off/release in front of the windlass...works like a charm

            I have the same anchor with an above deck lewmar, found the windlass was slipping too easily, tightened clutch and all is good

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              #21
              Go to www.animatedknots.com We use this website alot for our safe boating class. There is a knot for every use and also shows you how to splice into the chain or for that matter make your own loops for your boat lines.
              2001 Maxum 3000 SCR
              Twin 5.0L w/ Bravo 2

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                #22
                Awesome. Lots of good info here. Thanks everyone for the tips, pics, links and advice! I appreciate it.

                -john
                2003 Bayliner 305 - SOLD!
                Twin 5.7L, Carb'd, 445 hours
                Bravo II drives
                Closed-cooling

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                  #23
                  I have never used an anchor pin or tie off to secure my anchor! Never been necessary. I wish it were. Even when I release the tension on the windlass I have to go up therre and kick it free. An inconvenience when you are by yourself.

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                    #24
                    Just a follow up. All I needed to do was to tighten up the friction clutch. I tightened it up maybe a quarter of a turn and now the anchor stays put. Simple fix. I also added a large caribeaner that I can attach to the chain and it can hook on to my center cleat on the bow. That way, if the windless ever does fail, the caribeaner will not allow it to fall.

                    Thanks again for all the help.
                    2003 Bayliner 305 - SOLD!
                    Twin 5.7L, Carb'd, 445 hours
                    Bravo II drives
                    Closed-cooling

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