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    #1

    droopy anchor-gctid392689

    This season i have a new, heavier anchor on my boat. The Rocna 15 which is 33lbs. When I'm underway, if I'm in a chop, or hit the wake of another boat, the anchor seems to slip ever-so-slightly. THen I notice it starting to move around up there. So I use my windless to pull it back up...not alot, maybe an inch. But then the next time I hit a wave, it gets loose again. Every couple of minutes I need to hit my windless button to secure the anchor tightly. I never had this problem with my old smaller anchor, which was only 14 lbs. It remained tight all the time.

    I have 2 theories of what's going on here:

    1) Maybe there's some sort of bolt or adjustment screw on the windless that needs to be tightened. It's a stock Lewmar Horizontal windless. I have no idea if there really is one, but it seems plausible.

    2) Wrong size chain. I believe my windless calls for 3/8" chain, and I have 1/4" chain (thank you previous owner). The windless still pulls it up fine, but maybe that's why it slips when it gets jostled around. I had the same and chain rode last year with the smaller anchor, but maybe the heavier Rocna anchor is multiplying the effects of the wrong chain size.

    I'm guessing my problem is #2, but I wanted to see what you guys thought as well.
    2003 Bayliner 305 - SOLD!
    Twin 5.7L, Carb'd, 445 hours
    Bravo II drives
    Closed-cooling
    Tags: None
    #2
    I would vote #2, i get the impression correct sizing is critical. Also, you should consider some type of safety line to hold the anchor in case it really lets loose. That would not be any fun at all.

    Comment

      #3
      "Droopy Anchor" would make a great name for an adult flick! But on the serious side, it is your chain that attributes to the droop. The PO tried to save a few bucks by using a thinner chain; and when a chain is too thin, there exist opportunities for it to unravel from its layers in the presence of motion. You also risk tangling the chain -- and if you haven't experienced a chain tangle on a windlass, it's definitely not something to look forward to! Get some properly sized chain and you'll be fine.

      Comment

        #4
        Have you tried snugging up the drive clutch?

        What model windlass is it? I would have thought it would be a vertical unit, not horizontal.

        a friend of mine with a Prowler express had the windlass go free while running about 20KN. The anchor dropped free and both props got wrapped in chain and nylon rode. The damage was significant. Serious enough to make the insurance broker cry. ;-)

        Comment

          #5
          whiskywizard wrote:
          a friend of mine with a Prowler express had the windlass go free while running about 20KN. The anchor dropped free and both props got wrapped in chain and nylon rode. The damage was significant. Serious enough to make the insurance broker cry. ;-)
          I wonder how often that happens...? I am generally opposed to the idea of installing a windlass on my boat (personal preference) because it is another "luxury" item that is subject to malfunctioning. I always though about windlass malfunctions related to an inability to retrieve the anchor; but the thought of a free-fall while under way makes the hair on my back rise.

          Comment

            #6
            You shouldnt be running with the anchor just be holding by the windlass. If you had a anchor lock pin or a chain tightner you wouldnt be having this problem as the weight if the anchor would be on the lock. If your anchor let down while underway you would have serious problems
            1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
            twin 454's
            MV Mar-Y-Sol
            1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
            Twin chevy 350's inboard
            Ben- Jamin
            spokane Washington

            Comment

              #7
              yachtman wrote:
              You shouldnt be running with the anchor just be holding by the windlass. If you had a anchor lock pin or a chain tightner you wouldnt be having this problem as the weight if the anchor would be on the lock. If your anchor let down while underway you would have serious problems
              I agree - everyone should be using a locking device on their anchor system, whatever it may be.

              Mine is a manual haul on the pulpit and it is locked by a pin device that keeps it secure.

              Comment

                #8
                Astral Blue wrote:
                Get some properly sized chain and you'll be fine.
                Getting the chain is no big deal, but the problem is braiding it to my existing rode. I'd have to remove everything from the boat and bring it to a place so they can braid the line to the new chain. Maybe, this is something that would be good to do in the off-season.

                whiskywizard wrote:
                Have you tried snugging up the drive clutch?
                No. How do you do that?

                whiskywizard wrote:
                What model windlass is it? I would have thought it would be a vertical unit, not horizontal.
                It's a Lewmar Concept 1 with Gypsey # 002.

                yachtman wrote:
                You shouldnt be running with the anchor just be holding by the windlass. If you had a anchor lock pin or a chain tightner you wouldnt be having this problem as the weight if the anchor would be on the lock. If your anchor let down while underway you would have serious problems
                Good point. Do they sell such a product designed for this? Or do people just take a bungee and strap it on?
                2003 Bayliner 305 - SOLD!
                Twin 5.7L, Carb'd, 445 hours
                Bravo II drives
                Closed-cooling

                Comment

                  #9
                  I got my chain and rode at WM, they have a mobile guy (non wm) that comes in and braids it once a week. Took about 15 minutes, beautiful work. $20. We have the same windlass, I went with 5/8. That anchor is fantastic!

                  Comment

                    #10
                    cwiert wrote:
                    No. How do you do that?
                    Looking through Lewmar's site, it seems the Concept line is vertical.

                    http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...6028.jpg[/img] Are you sure yours is horizontal? I might have the wrong unit.If I'm right, there's a bi-square hole on top of the gypsy drum. It is the drive hole for a winch handle that allows you to manually retrieve the rode if the windlass were to fail. If you give that a part-turn clockwise, you'll snug up the friction clutch. Conversely, you'd turn that top nut counter-clockwise to manually lower the anchor. When you do this, you're not cranking the anchor down; you're releasing the drive clutch and allowing the unit to free-wheel.As for anchor security devices, there's a number of ways. Factory units are usually either a pin throught the anchor and roller/guide plates, or a short length of aircraft cable with a snap-lock carabiner on it. An easy way is to splice a short length of nylon rope to a chain hook, and run that nylon back to a deck cleat.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      An anchor lock looks like this and costs about $30

                      [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/696369=28935-9397134.jpg[/img]
                      1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
                      twin 454's
                      MV Mar-Y-Sol
                      1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
                      Twin chevy 350's inboard
                      Ben- Jamin
                      spokane Washington

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Brad 3055 wrote:
                        I got my chain and rode at WM, they have a mobile guy (non wm) that comes in and braids it once a week. Took about 15 minutes, beautiful work. $20. We have the same windlass, I went with 5/8. That anchor is fantastic!
                        Good to know. I will have to get new chain and do that.
                        whiskywizard wrote:
                        Looking through Lewmar's site, it seems the Concept line is vertical.

                        http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...6028.jpg[/img] Are you sure yours is horizontal? I might have the wrong unit.If I'm right, there's a bi-square hole on top of the gypsy drum. It is the drive hole for a winch handle that allows you to manually retrieve the rode if the windlass were to fail. If you give that a part-turn clockwise, you'll snug up the friction clutch. Conversely, you'd turn that top nut counter-clockwise to manually lower the anchor. When you do this, you're not cranking the anchor down; you're releasing the drive clutch and allowing the unit to free-wheel.As for anchor security devices, there's a number of ways. Factory units are usually either a pin throught the anchor and roller/guide plates, or a short length of aircraft cable with a snap-lock carabiner on it. An easy way is to splice a short length of nylon rope to a chain hook, and run that nylon back to a deck cleat.
                        Yup... that's what it looks like. I will try tightening it up, but it's probably the chain.
                        yachtman wrote:
                        An anchor lock looks like this and costs about $30

                        http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...7134.jpg[/img]
                        Gotcha. Thanks.So it looks like I have a few things to add to my to do list.1. Get new chain.2. Have WM splice new chain to existing rode3. Snug up friction clutch4. Get an anchor lock.And until I get that done, I'm not going anywhere without securing that anchor one way or another...even as a temp fix. Those horror stories are SCARY!!!Thanks fellas.john
                        2003 Bayliner 305 - SOLD!
                        Twin 5.7L, Carb'd, 445 hours
                        Bravo II drives
                        Closed-cooling

                        Comment

                          #13
                          We just use a quarter inch line through the chain then tied off on the port and starboard cleats to secure the anchor. Simple, but it works and won't cost you anything.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            cwiert wrote:
                            Good to know. I will have to get new chain and do that.Yup... that's what it looks like. I will try tightening it up, but it's probably the chain.Gotcha. Thanks.So it looks like I have a few things to add to my to do list.1. Get new chain.2. Have WM splice new chain to existing rode3. Snug up friction clutch4. Get an anchor lock.And until I get that done, I'm not going anywhere without securing that anchor one way or another...even as a temp fix. Those horror stories are SCARY!!!Thanks fellas.john
                            Good choice. Here is a different type of lock. Neyter but more expensive. You will be able to find various styles.

                            http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/..._med.jpg[/img]Here is what the set up might look like.

                            http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...5374.jpg[/img]
                            1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
                            twin 454's
                            MV Mar-Y-Sol
                            1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
                            Twin chevy 350's inboard
                            Ben- Jamin
                            spokane Washington

                            Comment

                              #15
                              The best advice on this thread is securing the anchor with a lanyard. Short piece of line, carbine hook or similar device and viola! No more worries.

                              If the winch and anchor rode function correctly presently, why fix it if it ain't broke?

                              Comment

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