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    #16
    Thanks guys, everstart it is!

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      #17
      Not to hijack the thread, but what about the so-called "Dual purpose" batteries? Are those useful as either start or house batteries, or in the case of a smaller boat, as both?

      Thanks,

      -Jorden

      Comment


        #18
        Read this before buying batteries

        http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=35340

        I wrote this for exactly the questions asked above.

        That said, some batteries are made with better materials than others, however, there are only very few ways to actually "fabricate" a battery. They all have lead plates, a separator, terminals, etc.

        Look for the ones with the best non-pro-rated warranty.

        After reading the above artiicle, then select the proper type for you application.

        I don't want this to get into "my battery is better thn yours"; I want the OP to get the correct batteries (and charger) for his application.
        Captharv 2001 2452
        "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

        Comment


          #19
          captharv wrote:
          Read this before buying batteries

          http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=35340

          I wrote this for exactly the questions asked above.

          That said, some batteries are made with better materials than others, however, there are only very few ways to actually "fabricate" a battery. They all have lead plates, a separator, terminals, etc.
          CaptHarv, any thoughts on Dual Purpose batteries? Supossedly the best/better of both worlds.

          -Jorden

          Comment


            #20
            IMO, a dual purpose battery is similar to an Enduro motorcycle..... it ain't really an off road bike, and it ain't really a street bike.

            If you want the best for each purpose, install a cranking/starting battery on #1, and a true Deep Cycle(s) on #2.

            .
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #21
              The DC27 at Walmart is a dual purpose deep/starting. 850 Cranking Amps, 120Ah. They do a good job, I've been using them now to 2 seasons and happy with the performance.

              For example my house banks is 480Ah and we run a number of devices for several days on the hook.

              VHF Radio,

              Raymarine Chart Plotter(anchor alarm)

              Fridge

              laptops

              Coffee brewer twice per day

              charging other devices like iPads, iPhones, DVD player

              water pumps, shower pumps, etc

              And maintain 50% min charge.

              Also installed a LinkLite battery monitor. This is very valuable to understand your usage and it tells you what's left.

              The group here showed me the way, and it has been a huge difference to our on the hook experience.

              Here is the fridge running:



              Coffee brewing:


              Comment


                #22
                I am also a strong believer of using a true deep cycle for house and a crank/starting batt reserved only for cranking engine. deep cycles and dual purpose tend to loose that initial strong fast crank a starting battery provides.

                I personally run this set up with great success (1 starting, 1 house)

                as for brand i am a fan of interstate, pricey but with my experience a very good product, but I am intrested in the praise of the walmart brand, when it comes time i will definitly look into them...im new to this site and have already learned lots, its great to hear everyone's experiences.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I need to change the oil in my batteries. What kind of oil is best?

                  op

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Here is a website that I have used as reference and a way to explain DC systems to others. It is a great source for information and to keep as a reference. I hope that you read it. The link is to "The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)" at the bottom of the article is the link to Part 2.

                    http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
                    Patrick and Patti
                    4588 Pilothouse 1991
                    12ft Endeavor RIB 2013
                    M/V "Paloma"
                    MMSI # 338142921

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Papa Charlie wrote:
                      Here is a website that I have used as reference and a way to explain DC systems to others. It is a great source for information and to keep as a reference. I hope that you read it. The link is to "The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)" at the bottom of the article is the link to Part 2.

                      http://"http://www.marxrv.com/12volt...olt/12volt.htm
                      Papa Charlie....., I've read Mark's write up before and just now skimmed through it again. I'd have to give him a pretty good score for a non-engineering type person.

                      His section titled "It's important to understand the differences in battery types" pretty much sums up what a few of us have said regarding the proper type of battery for the usage.

                      These RV guys rely on 12 VDC as we do and I can see that Mark knows the difference.

                      For those of you not quite sure about the 6 volt G/C batteries, look at Mark's amp hour table and compare several of the 12 volt batteries to the T 105's or the L-16's.

                      .
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Flash Jorden wrote:
                        CaptHarv, any thoughts on Dual Purpose batteries? Supossedly the best/better of both worlds.

                        -Jorden
                        read the article
                        Captharv 2001 2452
                        "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

                        Comment


                          #27
                          trophyboat wrote:
                          I need to change the oil in my batteries. What kind of oil is best?

                          op
                          Fish oil, of course, for a marine environment
                          Captharv 2001 2452
                          "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Hate to break into this thread but I'm new to the two battery system. If on the hook # 2 battery goes dead, Switch to #1 , start the boat. How do you charge #2 if your not suppost to turn the switch when the engine is running?

                            Comment


                              #29
                              seasam wrote:
                              Hate to break into this thread but I'm new to the two battery system. If on the hook # 2 battery goes dead, Switch to #1 , start the boat. How do you charge #2 if your not suppost to turn the switch when the engine is running?
                              You may have been misinformed.

                              Most all, if not all of these MBSS's today are what's called "Make-before-Break" style contacts, meaning that the contacts do not let go of #1 until #2 has been initially contacted (and visa-versa).

                              With "Make-before-Break", the system will not undergo a 12 vdc interruption while switching.

                              I think that you'd have a very old MBSS if it was NOT using "Make-before-Break" style contacts.

                              What you may be confusing this with, would be swithing through the "OFF" position while the engine is running.

                              With an MBSS that does not have alternator "field protection", switching through "OFF" interrupts the 12 vdc power and can damage an alternator.

                              .
                              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Well if we are going for the popcorn let me throw this out.

                                I never use my starting battery although I do have a dedicated "Starting Battery" Difference is I call this my "emergency battery" as oppose to starting. My house bank consists of 4x 6v 200ah AGM combined for a 12v 400ah system. My selector switch is always on the house bank which means I also start from it. If ever the house bank were to fail or be too weak to start then I can switch to my "emergency battery" (never happened yet) IMHO this make more sense than fiddling with switches to start and then switch when at destination or under way. The potential for forgetting to switch is asking for more trouble than anything else.

                                Keeping in mind I have two motors/alternators where each is connected to each bank and therefor while underway everything is being charged regardless of battery switch position. This is easily overcome on a single engine with the addition of a good ACR which is exactly what I did/had on my previous 2855.

                                A 350/383cid like mine needs what? 400cca will let it crank with ease? There is absolutely no reason why the house bank deep cycles can't deliver this without being affected detrimentally even in the long run. I never understood why a house bank on an inverter is asked to deliver 300+ amps to power a toaster for 5+ mins continuos yet to power a starter with similar power draw for a 5-6 second startup is going to hurt your deep cycle bank. Makes no sense whatsoever does it?

                                op
                                Cheers, Hans
                                2007 Carver 41 CMY
                                Twin Volvo D6-370
                                Montreal, Canada
                                Midnight Sun I Photos

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