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i(39)m looking to buy a 1980 bayliner-gctid388839

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    i(39)m looking to buy a 1980 bayliner-gctid388839

    I am wondering if there is anything I should know about the boat before I purchase,I have never owned a bayliner. This boat is a 1980 Bayliner 2670 Explorer, Volvo cyl. gas engine. thanks for any help.

    A lot of people here will just give you the knee jerk response to get the boat surveyed, but with a 1980 boat that does not really seem to be a very economical decision. ya ya I can hear it now, no survey equals buyer beware. Yep that is correct, but if you can live with that premise, and are able to give it a critical once over with an unemotional eye, then you will be fine.

    You did not say if you have ever had a boat before (just that you have never had a Bayliner) There is nothing special about 1980 Bayliners good or bad (I happen to have one) They age just like any other boat. Just make sure that you have your eyes open and realize that this is a 32 year old boat, and unless it's been well maintained by it's current owner it's going to have some problems.

    I would pay particular attention to the fuel tank, and transom, because they are a P.I.T.A. to fix.


      The 2670 is the larger version of my boat. I shopped for a long time to find a rot free boat.

      There is alot to watch for that can be wrong. I've seen these go for over $10k and given away for free so things can vary greatly.

      The hardtop(if equipped), glass, side windows, and hatch can leak.

      Rot can take place in the structure of the boat, mainly in the transom and stringers in the stern. You can tap on area's with the butt of a screwdriver and should get a solid tap, if an area changes to a dull thud it is probably waterlogged and rotten. You can drill small holes and see if the wood shavings are dry or come out wet and mushy to confirm if the seller allows. Time to walk away unless you want a big project and the price is cheap.

      Check the drive oil to see if the oil is clean or milky. By removing the drain plug with a large flatblade and probably an impact driver you'll get a sample of the oil. Only if you pull the fill plug/dipstick the vacuum is released and then the oil will gush out the drain. If it's milky you can figure on a drive reseal and look over of the bearings. If there is separated oil and alot of water it's likely the drive bearings are rusted and the drive is toast.

      If it's a good operable boat, ask for a sea trial. The cooling system can have numerous issues requiring alot of money to be spent but still look fine on the outside.

      Make sure the previous owner knows about greasing the primary drive shaft bearing and has done it often. There is a grease fitting on top of the "bellhousing" (marine jargon is flywheel housing) behind the engine that greases that bearing.

      If possible, loosen the hose clamp on the UPPER ribbed rubber boot "bellows" and see if any water comes out. It should be nice and dry possibly greasy in there. If rusty with water inside this could mean a fair amount of $$$ and repairs needed to the drive and primary shaft bearing.

      There are two posts in our "vault" here regarding the volvo engine and drive you should read.

      You've done a great thing by posting this up BEFORE you bought, take a couple evenings to educate yourself and read up/tool up, before you go into battle with the seller.

      These boats are slow but efficent, figure 8-10 knots. While I feel the 4-cylinder is adequate for my 2270, the 2670 really benefits from a V-6 swap in any waters with tides and currents. With the hull type any more motor than that is not recommended nor is it safe/stable.

      I'm not trying to scare you away, lack of maintenance and care can leave these problems in any boat. The tips above will help tell you if the seller actualy cared for the boat or has used it up and is selling a money pit.