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Any idea what the factory engine, outdrive and all associated bracketing weigh in my '83 2850 Contessa Sunbridge with a single 260 Vovlo Penta I/O setup ? Thnx.
Thnx for the quick reply. That number sure sounds legit. Maybe others have recent experience will weigh in. Just trying to get some idea of what I'm dealing with if I decide to pull the whole shooting match myself. Thnx again.
A fresh water cooled Merc 260 with alpha drive was 930lb years ago. Closed cooling would increase this weight somewhat. I'd bet your Volvo is similar in weight to the Merc.
2007 Discovery 246
300mpi BIII
Welcome island Lake Superior
Thnx for the quick reply. That number sure sounds legit. Maybe others have recent experience will weigh in. Just trying to get some idea of what I'm dealing with if I decide to pull the whole shooting match myself. Thnx again.
Wayne
You have to pull in pieces and it is much easier to pull with at least one manifold off (and reinstall with both off) if you don't have a hoist you can strip down to a shortblock and with a couple of well fed friends it isn't too bad to remove by brute strength method.
Drive again is in pieces (top gear set has to come off to get to the ring that holds the bellhousing/PDS to the transom)
I haven't removed the transom shield before but looks to be 6 bolts and it should come out if you need to replace the core in the transom.
Wayne, part of this will depend on how you plan to pull the engine. As you may know, I work on the AQ series V/P's.
If I were pulling this engine, I'd remove the exhaust risers, I'd disconnect the engine from the flywheel cover, leaving it in place for right now.
I'd pull the four lag screws, and let the engine mounts be removed along with the engine.
The Volvo Penta drive can remain in place, unlike a Gimbal system drive.
What is it that you're doing? Engine only replacement, or other?
Great time to also do drive shaft bellows, and to replace the PDS bearings and seals.
.
Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
Thnx loads for the weight and removal info. Appears drive train is in the neighborhood of 900# +/- 100# which as they say in the music biz close enough for jazz. Tells me it's gonna take a hoist to get that bad boy outta the engine bilge unless I strip it to a short block and lure Sasquatch and the Incredible Hulk over with a case of beer. 2850 Bounty asked where I'm headed with this, and I shoulda led with that, so here goes the long answer (you may wish to skip this next paragraph and go to the following one for the bottom line).
I have enough years in the hobby to know it's become readily apparent that on the boat-floater spectrum I clearly fall into the latter category and that' OK. I happier tied up in a wet (or dry) slip working on a boat than out cruising in one. Secondly, as a DIYer, I like to keep things simple to be able to do the work myself while reducing unnecessary potential points of failure. Thirdly, whenever the Admiral and I do go cruising, we're hull-speed (or less) rather than WOT kinda boaters. And lastly, I'm getting a bit long in the tooth for performing yoga in a cramped engine bilge.
Therefore, I've decided to repower with a TBD single OB, perhaps a 4-stroke kicker or even an electric. I know, I know, there are volumes written about the wisdom (or lack thereof) for going this direction, but for sentimental reasons I'm committed to keeping this 40year old Contessa until I croak and therefore don't care about resale value. She really serves mostly as a poor man's waterfront condo and quite well for our needs.
All this said, I'd sure like to hear your opinions about OB repowering and how to gitrdone. Thnx.
Sadly, I have to agree. Like the auto industry, the boating industry for similar reasons (battery technology, no economies of scale, etc.) hasn't quite succeeded in getting electric motors to successfully compete with gas/diesel. A small gas OB is probably my most reasonable alternative. I suspect I could get hull speed outta a 9.9HP 4-stroke, but that would mostly like take WOT, and that's just way too hard on an engine not to mention too noisy. I'm thinking I might be able to get a couple MPH outta an appropriately propped 9.9 or 15 at about 1000 RPM or maybe even a 24-volt trolling motor. I'm pretty much open to whatever will allow a couple geezers like the Admiral and me to leisurely cruise around the small 280 acre lake here in town.
I would suggest going with a larger OB; maybe 25-35hp and a 4 stroke. While 10hp will push your boat, it will need to b e cranked up pretty high and would have little or no reserve power for a strong headwind. With a 4-stroke OB of that size, you would get great gas mileage.
2007 Discovery 246
300mpi BIII
Welcome island Lake Superior
Wise words. I believe 4-stroke 25 HP is the break point where most if not all OB manufacturers build 3-cylinder blocks which should make it a bit smoother running with more torque at lower RPM. Thnx for the advice.
op
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