Cored Deck Repair-gctid386258

[Guest]

I'm a new guy to BOC posting my first request for the forum's collective wisdom. The deck hatch just aft of the helm station (see pic) on my '83 Contessa Sunbridge has been leaking for some time and is always under foot due to it's pesky location, so I have already removed it with intent to fill in and glass over the remaining hole. As suspected the 1'' thick deck has a foam core with top and bottom 'glass skins. While I do have experience repairing dings, gouges, screw holes and the like, I must admit 'glassing in a hole of this size and especially considering the foam core is plowing new ground for me. Would appreciate any steerage on how to proceed. Is epoxy resin compatible with Bayliner's proprietary Marine Core construction? Thnx in advance.

Wayne

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/689793=28210-Helm Station Hatch.jpg[/img]

[Guest]

Welcome aboard!!

I just went through my first major fiberglass repair and learned most of what I know from people on this forum. I will tell you that it won't be as hard as you think and there is a ton of info if you search the forum. My thread was called transom repair and there is a bit of info on it.

I also found some great info on youtube. One of my favorite videos was by videos was by Frisco Jarretts. He offers a ton of info on fiberglass and has many complete projects filmed step by step. I will caution that I would verify everything you plan to do. I did that and it served me well - so far.

I would find a good glass supply shop. West Marine charges a premium for everything. I found that other Marine shops had a better supply and prices.

I haven't done a project like this but know how I would do it. I will wait to see if someone more knowledgeable chimes in first.

Best of luck!!

Greg

[Guest]

wefivehodges wrote:
Welcome aboard!!

I just went through my first major fiberglass repair and learned most of what I know from people on this forum. I will tell you that it won't be as hard as you think and there is a ton of info if you search the forum. My thread was called transom repair and there is a bit of info on it.

I also found some great info on youtube. One of my favorite videos was by videos was by Frisco Jarretts. He offers a ton of info on fiberglass and has many complete projects filmed step by step. I will caution that I would verify everything you plan to do. I did that and it served me well - so far.

I would find a good glass supply shop. West Marine charges a premium for everything. I found that other Marine shops had a better supply and prices.

I haven't done a project like this but know how I would do it. I will wait to see if someone more knowledgeable chimes in first.

Best of luck!!

Greg

Greg...

Thnx for the steerage. Will look for the Frisco Jarretts videos. Some cursory invesitgation has revealed several decent tutorials, so it's getting close to time to just dive in. I'm actually looking forward to this effort.

Wayne

[Guest]

Yeah I find it best to do that too. Jump right in.

I'm guessing you'll need to grind away the glass around the hatch so you can build up your glass for strength. I'm guessing you'll prob need to go like 8" around the hole.

I'd plug the space with plywood. I'd support it from below with some strapping. Glass the top, then remove the strapping and glass the bottom.

I found matting very nice to work with but you'll need some sort of cloth for strength. You could probably go matting/roving/matting/roving. Roving is heavy 24oz. Matting is light 1.5oz - 30z. I read somewhere on a transom expect to use 30oz-40z of cloth. Not sure about on a floor.

Not sure what you are going to do to replicate the anti skid. I know there are methods to do that.

If you are using poly resin, please wear a mask. I wasn't careful about keeping my respirator all the time and got some pretty bad headaches. The MEKP hardener is nasty stuff.

Greg

[Guest]

I don't think the Contessa ever had foam coring in the decks, it's probably balsa... but perhaps plywood.

[Guest]

i will do the same on my boat and few members ( Prairie Puffin )

on this forum did it.He can give good advice

i will do with 3/4" plywood.

My advice:

if going to use polyester resin make sure that You drill holes in the plywood (about 6-8" a part ) this will help to absorb the resin and go wet to wet application

[Guest]

ishiboo wrote:
I don't think the Contessa ever had foam coring in the decks, it's probably balsa... but perhaps plywood.

that`s what i thought to

BTW You can`t make a propper foam core without vacum bagging (1/4" plywood + foam + 1/4" plywood)

[Iproff]

To cut down on the mess inside the boat I would fix the inside from outside. I would remove the hatch and the headliner in the area that you plan on filling in. If the hatch area is flat I would measure the size of the area, if it is 19X19 then I would make a patch 20X20. I would use wax paper put it on a piece of plywood and make a patch about 20X20 you build it up with layers of mat until you have it thicker than the inner hull thickness. I would test fit by sliding the finished piece in from the outside so it is sitting on the inside opening. You might have to do some cutting on the outside so you can get the new piece on the inside. Now you want to put a weight on it or have someone push on it and you trace around the opening inside the boat. Take the patch out and grind the edge till the patch is sitting close to flush all the way around. Now you are ready to secure the patch to the inside, all you need to do is brush some resin on the edge put the patch back in, tape with 2" masking tape all the way around and then cut some fiberglass strips mix some resin and finish securing the patch to the inside by working outside. Once dry pull the masking tape off and use some 4200 on the 19X19 seam that shows the opening. The headliner can now be installed to hide the repair. By doing it this way you did not grind in the boat and did not create a mess inside the boat. It's not that difficult you just need to be creative. Now you just need to fill the hole and glass the top then gelcote.

Ken

[Guest]

Iproff wrote:
To cut down on the mess inside the boat I would fix the inside from outside. I would remove the hatch and the headliner in the area that you plan on filling in. If the hatch area is flat I would measure the size of the area, if it is 19X19 then I would make a patch 20X20. I would use wax paper put it on a piece of plywood and make a patch about 20X20 you build it up with layers of mat until you have it thicker than the inner hull thickness. I would test fit by sliding the finished piece in from the outside so it is sitting on the inside opening. You might have to do some cutting on the outside so you can get the new piece on the inside. Now you want to put a weight on it or have someone push on it and you trace around the opening inside the boat. Take the patch out and grind the edge till the patch is sitting close to flush all the way around. Now you are ready to secure the patch to the inside, all you need to do is brush some resin on the edge put the patch back in, tape with 2" masking tape all the way around and then cut some fiberglass strips mix some resin and finish securing the patch to the inside by working outside. Once dry pull the masking tape off and use some 4200 on the 19X19 seam that shows the opening. The headliner can now be installed to hide the repair. By doing it this way you did not grind in the boat and did not create a mess inside the boat. It's not that difficult you just need to be creative. Now you just need to fill the hole and glass the top then gelcote.

Ken

im sorry but i don`t think that this is a good idea to repair a hatch on the deck

[Iproff]

andrew 1 wrote:
im sorry but i don`t think that this is a good idea to repair a hatch on the deck

I guess you did not read the original post he wants to remove the hatch and fill the hole in.

I guess you did not read my responce I told him how to close in the inside of the boat side without making a mess inside.

Ken

[2850Bounty]

I'd have to agree...., it would not be a good idea to patch only if a patch was to compromise the integrity of the underside structure.

This core needs to create a box beam affair, since the area must support people.

Here's a thread that you may want to read if your deck hatch is dipping or convex in the center.

If so, you may as well remove the entire core from it, and replace it.

When done correctly, this will give the hatch the integrity it requires, and a new fresh convex shape to the top side.

The hole patching can become secondary to the structural repair.

Again..... this is if the structure were to require this work. If not..... repair the hole only.

Food for thought!

.

[2850Bounty]

Wayne, does this hatch offer any escape value or a valueable way out should there be an emgergency?

I'd sure consider that before completely removing it.

.

[Guest]

Iproff wrote:
I guess you did not read the original post he wants to remove the hatch and fill the hole in.

I guess you did not read my responce I told him how to close in the inside of the boat side without making a mess inside.

Ken

Sorry my bad

i was thinking about the the other hatch not the black one.

[Guest]

Iproff wrote:
To cut down on the mess inside the boat I would fix the inside from outside. I would remove the hatch and the headliner in the area that you plan on filling in. If the hatch area is flat I would measure the size of the area, if it is 19X19 then I would make a patch 20X20. I would use wax paper put it on a piece of plywood and make a patch about 20X20 you build it up with layers of mat until you have it thicker than the inner hull thickness. I would test fit by sliding the finished piece in from the outside so it is sitting on the inside opening. You might have to do some cutting on the outside so you can get the new piece on the inside. Now you want to put a weight on it or have someone push on it and you trace around the opening inside the boat. Take the patch out and grind the edge till the patch is sitting close to flush all the way around. Now you are ready to secure the patch to the inside, all you need to do is brush some resin on the edge put the patch back in, tape with 2" masking tape all the way around and then cut some fiberglass strips mix some resin and finish securing the patch to the inside by working outside. Once dry pull the masking tape off and use some 4200 on the 19X19 seam that shows the opening. The headliner can now be installed to hide the repair. By doing it this way you did not grind in the boat and did not create a mess inside the boat. It's not that difficult you just need to be creative. Now you just need to fill the hole and glass the top then gelcote.

Ken

I like this idea a lot. Very creative.

Greg

[Guest]

All...

Can't thank you all enough for the wisdom and advice. You've actually inspired me to be excited about jumping right in. This 13"X18" hatch could be used as an emergency exit, but we've decided eliminating it is not an unreasonable risk to assume, since the cabin door and foredeck hatch are so much larger. Failed to mention up from I've already stripped the old hull liner under this deck and will replace it once the hatch hole is filled in, so making an interior mess is not a terribly critical concern, although I do prefer to keep any jobsite clean and tidy. I'll dig out my best reading glasses to take a closer look at the core material. First glance made me think it is foam (dang this geezer eyesight), but as ishiboo pointed out it's most likely balsa. Will insure I choose the appropriate repair plug substrate to accommodate whatever it is. The good news is the core material is bone dry. As one who favors function over form, I'm not at all concerned about replicating the original antiskid pattern. Hey, she's 40 years old and entitled to show a few "battle scars." I know I have my share. Thnx again for your help. I am truly fired up to gitrdone.

Wayne