Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Little air conditioner-gctid380712

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Little air conditioner-gctid380712

    I'm go into purchase my first Bayliner (yay!) 2355 im looking for a small airconditioner that I can Put in the cuddy for my 9 month old son. I saw some bigger marnine units for $1500 but I can afford that. The boat doesn't currently have a generator but I plan on getting a portable one.

    Are there any 12v units out there? What are your suggestions?

    Thanks for your time.

    #2
    No such thing as a little one however if you are on a tight budget then one of those hatch mounted units may be the right move for you. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marine-Air-C...#ht_500wt_1413
    Cheers, Hans
    2007 Carver 41 CMY
    Twin Volvo D6-370
    Montreal, Canada
    Midnight Sun I Photos

    Comment


      #3
      I went with this system for my boat, cleaner looking than some big bulky device sticking out of the cuddy hatch.

      http://www.amazon.com/WA-1140DE-Dual...933438&sr=8-11

      I had a cruise air 5000btu.......it really kinda sucked for anything with a big cabin, not enough blow.

      Comment


        #4
        a/c is fairly expensive either way you go. The original ac for a 2355 is in the little compartment int he bathroom. THere was someone here who installed one before in there. Otherwise you can go cheaper with a hatch a/c but its still bulky. No a/c will run on 12v I am aware of, the power requirements for the compressor are a bit demanding.

        I would say the hatch one is the way to go, you can get a decent deal on those used too.

        Comment


          #5
          I have a marine air, portable 5K air conditioner and heater, the one that fits in the front hatch, I am not going to be using it this summer. It works great, but it is missing the two knobs on the bottom that adjust the fan speed and air temp, might be able to find new ones or use pliers. Not sure where your located but I can have it shipped from Texas to where ever you are. Think it weighs about 40 pounds. It has the skirt and deflector still. I would take $125 plus shipping, if you're interested let me know.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the suggestions. Eric I'll pm you whe I talk it over with my wife.

            Thanks guys!

            Comment


              #7
              biohazard wrote:
              a/c is fairly expensive either way you go. The original ac for a 2355 is in the little compartment int he bathroom. THere was someone here who installed one before in there. Otherwise you can go cheaper with a hatch a/c but its still bulky. No a/c will run on 12v I am aware of, the power requirements for the compressor are a bit demanding.

              I would say the hatch one is the way to go, you can get a decent deal on those used too.
              Dometic makes a "12v" system, I think one at 3.5k btu. But, it's basically a built-in inverter setup. Recommended to use with AGM or Gel type batteries, and would run them down.

              http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas...ctdataid=80972

              Not great or anything, but it exists.

              Comment


                #8
                Home Depot currently has a portable Royal Sovereign 9,000 BTU air conditioner listed for $279.00. I looked at a lot of portable air conditioners and this particular portable had the smallest dimensions to install in the forward cabin area of my 2755. It is 25" high, 16.5" wide and 12" deep.

                http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202709950&storeId=10051&l angId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202709950&ci_kw={keyword} &kwd={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202709950&ci_gpa=pla

                I wanted to make the top profile as low as possible and I was able to hold the footprint and still cut 8" down below the carpeted horizontal area between the lounge seat and anchor rope locker and build a platform for it to rest upon. This platform is about 6" above the bilge and 8" below the above carpeted horizontal area.

                The air conditioner unit has a 5" discharge pipe which puts out a lot of hot discharge air and so I cut out a slot for the discharge pipe to attach to the AC unit and routed the pipe, easily bendable and supplied with the unit, through the anchor rope locker and then into a stovepipe reducer from 5" to 4" and straight out the top deck between the bow cleat and as close to the side hull as the pipe would allow. I then installed a 4" screw top access hatch onto the bow deck and screwed the reducer to that. Siliconed and sealed everywhere possible. I considered just venting into the anchor rope locker, but it would have just been too much heat in that small area.

                I had two remaining unused circuit breaker slots in the main panel on the aft side of the sink cabinet and I installed a 10 amp. circuit breaker, ran the marine grade 110 12/3 (probably could have used 14/3) through the sink cabinet, behind the lounge seats and to the AC opening in order to plug in the AC unit with a dedicated circuit breaker.

                This unit only works on 110vac and draws too many amps to invert it to 12vdc. The only solution that I have come up with for that is to install a patio mister system around the Bimini top in the cockpit, fed by a 12v demand pump drawing water from a 5 gallon potable water plastic tank placed behind the helm seat.

                Below are pictures. I'll be placing the unit in the boat in about two weeks. I'm still doing a lot of finish sanding and polishing work on the top deck and I want to minimize getting dust in the unit until I'm ready to launch.

                I'm probably into this thing about $350.00 and a couple days labor. The output from the unit is very strong so I believe that if I open the escape hatch in the aft cabin, the air will flow right through the entire boat.

                1) Forward area prior to modification, 2) Hole cut for AC & vent tube into anchor locker, 3) Same as 2, 4) Ready for AC placement into hole onto platform.

                Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/684412=27585-ACHole.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/684412=27587-ACReady.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/684412=27586-AfterCut.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/684412=27584-BeforeCutting.jpg[/img]

                Comment


                  #9
                  The PO's of my boat had a small 5,000 BTU air conditioner mounted in the mid-birth hatch. It looked a bit silly, but works so well and for so cheap (you can buy them new for $99) I've kept it... actually built a panel which mounts in the hatch (instead of a bunch of towels wrapped around it, which I got rid of immediately), and then replaced the AC with a new one for appearance reasons (the old one never died even after getting banged around). You need either 16" or 16.5" inside dimensions of the back hatch for this to work.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    tank1023 wrote:
                    I'm go into purchase my first Bayliner (yay!) 2355 im looking for a small airconditioner that I can Put in the cuddy for my 9 month old son. I saw some bigger marnine units for $1500 but I can afford that. The boat doesn't currently have a generator but I plan on getting a portable one.

                    Are there any 12v units out there? What are your suggestions?

                    Thanks for your time.
                    I have a one year old Dometic 6500 BTU heat and air unit. Make me a offer call 843-248-2567 JIM

                    Comment


                      #11
                      MikeRoss wrote:
                      Home Depot currently has a portable Royal Sovereign 9,000 BTU air conditioner listed for $279.00. I looked at a lot of portable air conditioners and this particular portable had the smallest dimensions to install in the forward cabin area of my 2755. It is 25" high, 16.5" wide and 12" deep.

                      http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202709950&storeId=10051&l angId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202709950&ci_kw={keyword} &kwd={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202709950&ci_gpa=pla

                      I wanted to make the top profile as low as possible and I was able to hold the footprint and still cut 8" down below the carpeted horizontal area between the lounge seat and anchor rope locker and build a platform for it to rest upon. This platform is about 6" above the bilge and 8" below the above carpeted horizontal area.

                      The air conditioner unit has a 5" discharge pipe which puts out a lot of hot discharge air and so I cut out a slot for the discharge pipe to attach to the AC unit and routed the pipe, easily bendable and supplied with the unit, through the anchor rope locker and then into a stovepipe reducer from 5" to 4" and straight out the top deck between the bow cleat and as close to the side hull as the pipe would allow. I then installed a 4" screw top access hatch onto the bow deck and screwed the reducer to that. Siliconed and sealed everywhere possible. I considered just venting into the anchor rope locker, but it would have just been too much heat in that small area.

                      I had two remaining unused circuit breaker slots in the main panel on the aft side of the sink cabinet and I installed a 10 amp. circuit breaker, ran the marine grade 110 12/3 (probably could have used 14/3) through the sink cabinet, behind the lounge seats and to the AC opening in order to plug in the AC unit with a dedicated circuit breaker.

                      This unit only works on 110vac and draws too many amps to invert it to 12vdc. The only solution that I have come up with for that is to install a patio mister system around the Bimini top in the cockpit, fed by a 12v demand pump drawing water from a 5 gallon potable water plastic tank placed behind the helm seat.

                      Below are pictures. I'll be placing the unit in the boat in about two weeks. I'm still doing a lot of finish sanding and polishing work on the top deck and I want to minimize getting dust in the unit until I'm ready to launch.

                      I'm probably into this thing about $350.00 and a couple days labor. The output from the unit is very strong so I believe that if I open the escape hatch in the aft cabin, the air will flow right through the entire boat.

                      1) Forward area prior to modification, 2) Hole cut for AC & vent tube into anchor locker, 3) Same as 2, ) Ready for AC placement into hole onto platform.
                      Mike... Love your idea with routing the discharge line out to the top deck. I actually thought about a similar situation, where I would route it out on the port side. Just one question. How do you plan on terminating the connection at the deck? I'm mainly concerned about water coming into the vent from rain, spray, etc. Can you post a pic of the deck portion when you're finished?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Astral Blue wrote:
                        Mike... Love your idea with routing the discharge line out to the top deck. I actually thought about a similar situation, where I would route it out on the port side. Just one question. How do you plan on terminating the connection at the deck? I'm mainly concerned about water coming into the vent from rain, spray, etc. Can you post a pic of the deck portion when you're finished?
                        Glad to post pictures Ed, should be within a week to ten days. I'll also post a picture to illustrate what the AC looks like sitting in place inside the cabin.

                        The topmost discharge termination vent outlet on the forward deck is one of these 4" threaded vent hatches from West Marine, which, when screwed on, is water tight. Attached inside the anchor rope locker and immediately below the pictured 4" deck mounted vent hatch is the 4" end of a 4" to 5" stovepipe reducer from Home Depot. All of this is hidden inside the anchor rope locker.

                        The 5" diameter AC vent tube then attaches to the 5" end of the reducer, giving a straight hot air discharge shot out the top and about a 5' total run from the AC unit to the topside deck discharge.

                        I didn't want anything to appear "un-nautical" on the outside of the boat so I chose the standard 4" threaded deck hatch instead of an automatic flapper. I also didn't want anything sticking up that would get in the way of dockside lines, hoses or power cords. It will require that I stick my head out the front hatch to unscrew the top, however I'm toying with the idea of putting a removable flapper on whenever there is a prolonged stay onboard dockside and the AC will be run daily.

                        I truly don't feel proud about the usage of a stovepipe reducer on a boat even if it is hidden behind the mirror opening cover inside the anchor rope locker, however for the present season, the setup will keep the cabin very cool, which is the main thing.

                        Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img] http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

                        Comment


                          #13
                          So, I'm my quest looking for AC I know I have to have a generator which my boat does not have.

                          I thought about getting a portable generator but after thinking about it I'm worried about the CO it will produce.

                          So I guess I need to figure the generator issue first, then worrie about AC. I have a 10 month old so I don't want him to get too hot in the berth.

                          Thanks

                          jerry

                          Comment


                            #14
                            tank1023 wrote:
                            So, I'm my quest looking for AC I know I have to have a generator which my boat does not have.

                            I thought about getting a portable generator but after thinking about it I'm worried about the CO it will produce.

                            So I guess I need to figure the generator issue first, then worrie about AC. I have a 10 month old so I don't want him to get too hot in the berth.

                            Thanks

                            jerry
                            As long as you run a portable generator from the engine compartment, you won't have any CO issues. I promise! :kidding:kidding

                            One thought would be to increase the size of your house battery bank and connect an inverter. I know a lot of people here will poo poo this idea, but it has been done successfully by Jamestown Distributors and endorsed by manufacturers. You just need to make sure the power usage calculations are performed correctly and properly rated equipment is used.


                            Comment


                              #15
                              tank1023 wrote:
                              So, I'm my quest looking for AC I know I have to have a generator which my boat does not have.

                              I thought about getting a portable generator but after thinking about it I'm worried about the CO it will produce.

                              So I guess I need to figure the generator issue first, then worrie about AC. I have a 10 month old so I don't want him to get too hot in the berth.

                              Thanks

                              jerry
                              Kids are pretty robust, so I hear.

                              On the water, boats seem to stay relatively cool with good ventilation even in the mid/upper 90s. The Endless Breeze fans are very good. I only really have the desire to run my AC at the marinas where there is less of a breeze.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X