Repair Work Cost?-gctid375501

[Guest]

I just got an estimate to replace the starboard exhaust manifold on my 2005, 205 Bayliner. The engine is a calibrated 5.0, is $736 for parts and labor a fair price in the DC area?

[dmcb]

I'll answer your question with a question. Why just one manifold. Usually they are like a pair of shoes. One gets a hole but the other has been subjected to the same use and will also soon get one.

Did something unusual happen to one?

You will get some prices from those who have done this soon.

Here is some prices to look at. http://compare.ebay.com/like/1708300...Types&var=sbar Not sure if its for yours or not.

The labor is just easy wrenching.

Doug

[Guest]

Parts are between $500 and $600 per engine (both sides). Don't know what labor would cost, but then they may mark up the parts some too. that would sound like a fair price for both sides, but for only one side seems steep to me. And like was alreaady said, why just one side? Seems like an odd strategy.

[Guest]

greg15626 wrote:
I just got an estimate to replace the starboard exhaust manifold on my 2005, 205 Bayliner. The engine is a calibrated 5.0, is $736 for parts and labor a fair price in the DC area?

$736 for one side...did the guy have an eye patch and a parrot?

[2850Bounty]

( Pssssst.... I think he posted on the BOC. Let's lower our price a bit, or he may walk!

We'll just figure out another way to fund our trip to the Bahamas! )

[Guest]

sounds about rite for a shop to do it.. i just looked on ebay, there was a nice used complete set, $80 for the pair. easy to change your self.. saw some single aftermarket manifolds new for $120 if you dont need the elbows

[Guest]

Right now only the starboard manifold is cracked. When I bought the boat it had about 90 hours on it and now it has about 180 hours on it. It may have been like this since I got the boat because I am fairly sure it has not froze with water in the manifold since I have owned it. I notice the crack last fall and ran the engine a few times on muffs and did not see any water leaking from the manifold.

How hard is it to change the starboard manifold, this is the side that has the throttle and the shift linkage on it?

Also, the shop just dropped the price 10% because I store my boat there, or maybe they saw my post on BOC, thanks 2850Bounty.

[dmcb]

Here is a tip if you do it yourself.

Remove one bolt and go to a hardware and get two with the same thread but longer. Cut the end off the longer bolt leaving the threaded end.

Be sure its long enough it sticks out the end on the manifold.

Replace two bolts with your headless bolt.

Now you can slide the manifold off without dropping it and breaking your spark plugs.

It now will be very easy to replace it. Slide the gasket over your headless bolts, then the manifold and its in perfect alignment and one person can do it.

Doug

[Guest]

Doug, that is a great tip, thanks for sharing it.

[Guest]

dmcb wrote:
Here is a tip if you do it yourself.

Remove one bolt and go to a hardware and get two with the same thread but longer. Cut the end off the longer bolt leaving the threaded end.

Be sure its long enough it sticks out the end on the manifold.

Replace two bolts with your headless bolt.

Now you can slide the manifold off without dropping it and breaking your spark plugs.

It now will be very easy to replace it. Slide the gasket over your headless bolts, then the manifold and its in perfect alignment and one person can do it.

Doug

I go one step more. Take a hack saw and cut slots in the cut off end. That way you have a way to get out the cut off bolts incase something binds them.

I had a 305 block that had the heads on four or five bolts on the exhaust manifold really rounded off. Took a deep throat hack saw and cut thru the manifold and the bolts. If the manifold is being replaced, I found out it was easier and took less time. Plus it's alot safer than trying to heat up the bolt heads. A Sawsall will be faster!

[Guest]

http://mercexhaust.com/

[Guest]

I would not pay that for one. If the riser is being replaced also that is a very quick and easy job. If it is not a rusty mess. On saltwater boats the oil filter mount can get rusted on the riser studs. Depends on the unit. If I had my air tools set up and one man holding the manifolds it could be done in a hour or so. But that is really moving.

[2850Bounty]

greg15626 wrote:


Also, the shop just dropped the price 10% because I store my boat there, or maybe they saw my post on BOC, thanks 2850Bounty.

It's possible!

Also, warm the engine up before you try to crack the bolts loose.

Better done than if not done should there be an issue with rust/corrosion within the threads.

You can always do the actual work after things cool back down.

.

[dmcb]

gmau wrote:
I go one step more. Take a hack saw and cut slots in the cut off end. That way you have a way to get out the cut off bolts incase something binds them.

I had a 305 block that had the heads on four or five bolts on the exhaust manifold really rounded off. Took a deep throat hack saw and cut thru the manifold and the bolts. If the manifold is being replaced, I found out it was easier and took less time. Plus it's alot safer than trying to heat up the bolt heads. A Sawsall will be faster!

Good idea. I just used vice grips.

[Guest]

Another tip when putting them on. Get two extra bolts or long studs. Cut the heads off the bolts if you cant find studs. It holds the exhaust gasket on and makes it really easy to set the heavy manifolds on. Install a couple of bolts and remove the studs and replace with the bolts. One man easy install.