Quick Makita buffer question-gctid372462

[Guest]

All these posts about polishing and waxing has shamed me into starting my own torture session....thanks a lot!:livid:

The Makita came with 2 pads, the lighter wooly one and the yellow one. I'm going to use 3m Restorer polish/wax, which pad would I use?

I'm thinking to apply and buff with the white one and go back over with the yellow??

[MidnightSun]

Neither of the 2. You want to use a foam pad for application. http://www.autogeek.net/makita-9227c-pad-kit.html

[Guest]

Nice pads! I was wondering about switching pads since they say not to let this stuff dry, just keep buffing it out. Been so long since I've waxed I forgot my process!

[Guest]

From 3M http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...tFinishEng.pdf

[Go Aweigh2452]

The one pad looks like it is synthetic. Throw it away or use it for applying wax but buff out with the foam pad afterward. Use the real wool for the cutting only...

Another good thing to do is to use a magic marker on the back side of the pads with the product you used it for. You may not recall next time you use them. Also, put them in a plastic garbage bag to store them and keep them clean.

Oh and wash the boat after each type of product you use before using the next product...

[yachtman]

Ok this comes from journeyman autbody repairman and I have polished way more than I care to admit.

The white one is a coarse compound pad. The yellow one.is a polish pad for lighter compound or polishing. (it not applying wax)

If you have lots of oxidation use the white and a coarse compound. Maybe 3mI superduty or a fast cut compound. After that use a finish coat compound with the yellow.pad After hat use a sponge wheel with finish compound then wax. If you don't have alot of dirt and oxidization you can go with the.yellow.one. don't let any dirt get in it or it may scratch. If you have a dark color boat you may want to go with a sponge wheel after but.if its.white.you most likely wont see any scratches if you use the right compound. None of of those wheels are junk. Happy polishing.

[Guest]

Thanks mates-- Off to the dungeon I go!

[Guest]

What Dave said. Also, if you are going to do a lot of compounding and a boat requires a lot of work, it's best to get a tool to break up the grit on the pad. I've used this little tool a lot. The compound and some oxide gets stuck in the pad and this wheel takes it out, and makes the pad ready for more work.

http://www.rightlook.com/images/supplies/md-wool-buffing-pad-cleaning-tool.jpg

[yachtman]

[QUOTE]docmirror wrote:
What Dave said. Also, if you are going to do a lot of compounding and a boat requires a lot of work, it's best to get a tool to break up the grit on the pad. I've used this little tool a lot. The compound and some oxide gets stuck in the pad and this wheel takes it out, and makes the pad ready for more work.

http://www.rightlook.com/images/supplies/md-wool-buffing-pad-cleaning-tool.jpg

[Guest]

I use a piece of dead wood about 3/4 to 1" Thick with no bark on it to clean the buffer wheel. Still cheaper than a screwdriver, or the cleaner tool.....

[Guest]

foam pads the way To go!

[kwb]

fetzers wrote:
foam pads the way To go!

only for the last stages.

[Guest]

yachtman wrote:
I use a flat screwdriver and let.it drag over the pad and run it back and forth over the pad to clean it. Yeah hitec I know. They actually have a cleaning wheel but a screwdriver works better.

+1. I tried the tool and it just turned my wool pad black.

[Guest]

I ordered a bonnet kit that included a free spurring tool, I swear all it is is a glorified wire brush.

[Guest]

I use the real wool one too. It does a great job and if used in a three step process of compound, light compound and then polish on a random orbital it can yield fantastic results.