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New to BOC and boat mechanics but lookinhg for help-gctid366642

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    New to BOC and boat mechanics but lookinhg for help-gctid366642

    My brother recently got an 1991 Capri cuddy. I think its either 19 or 21 foot. One thing we are sure of is that it is a 120hp force I/O L-Drive. I have seen ALOT of discouraging words about this engine. But that is what we have to deal with.

    Couple of things;

    The engine starts and runs but must be put into gear immed. otherwise it will die??

    It grinds horribly bad when put into reverse and sometimes wont even engage??

    We want to pull the engine and strip it down and replace all the gaskets and take a look at the insides. Provided everything is in working order, our question is what gasket kit are we looking. We cant find anyone, anywhere. What kit should we be looking for?

    Please, If only one person answers then we are that much closer but I would like as much help as possible with this. We would like to spend the next month or so redoing the engine and be able to use it this summer if thats possible to accomplish.

    Thank you all so much in advance!

    #2
    1st off welcome to BOC, 2nd I dont know much about outboards but someone will chime in.

    Comment


      #3
      This won't be of much help but I would do a complete tune up on the engine. Including carb work. You must get it to idle. It may be someone has idled it up to try to get it to run and that is why you can't get it in gear. To shift it must idle properly and the right rpms.

      When shifting, you do it quick. Slow shifting will result in gear grinding and wear on the gears.

      But get it running correctly first.

      Do a compression test. If all is OK, I wouldn't disassemble the engine just to have a look. You don't do that to your car, do you?

      Doug
      Started boating 1955
      Number of boats owned 32
      Bayliners
      2655
      2755
      2850
      3870 presently owned
      Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

      Comment


        #4
        dmcb wrote:
        This won't be of much help but I would do a complete tune up on the engine. Including carb work. You must get it to idle. It may be someone has idled it up to try to get it to run and that is why you can't get it in gear. To shift it must idle properly and the right rpms.

        When shifting, you do it quick. Slow shifting will result in gear grinding and wear on the gears.

        But get it running correctly first.

        Do a compression test. If all is OK, I wouldn't disassemble the engine just to have a look. You don't do that to your car, do you?

        Doug
        +1

        Comment


          #5
          So to do the tune up, wouldnt I need to pull the engine and replace all the gaskets and the seals? If that is the case, what kits would I need for the Force 120 hp. Im am not sure if its an inboard or outboard? It looks as tho its a inboard, but all I keep seein is that this particular engine is an outboard housed like an inboard!

          I know I sound like a no nothing but this is something Im not used to doing.

          Thanks so much

          Comment


            #6
            for a tuneup I would be looking at cleaning carbs, replace plugs and wires, whatever ignition it uses if theres a cap or rotor (not sure again with outboards). Pulling the engine apart isnt needed for that, sure a few gaskets and whatnot but not tearing the engine down.

            Like doug said, key is to get it idling 1st, then move from there. Process of elimination.

            Comment


              #7
              The place I always start looking for outboard parts is Seaway Marine in Seattle, WA. These guys are mostly OMC outboard type of shop, but know where to get parts for other engines if they don't stock the parts themselves.

              Comment


                #8
                Try crowleymarine.com. Once you get some part numbers you may be able to do better just looking for those part numbers on the web. Recommend getting the model number on the motor though. Should be on a plate somewhere on the block. Agree with getting the idle speed under control though. Should cut down on the grinding. Also check your neutral position on the shift cable.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Welcome to the club! You will find anything and everything you would like to know... and a few things you dont. For example, me being new to inboards inquired about servicing my boat. Boy, did i get a list of things to look for and to do. Years of good advice and great tools here, dont hesistate- one big happy family!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks everybody. So to get a service manual I will need to get the engine Number?

                    And just cause I am curious, are these 120 hp force l drive considered inboard or outboard?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      okay, guys i just ordered a brand new manual for this 120 hp L-drive. I know I was told i wouldnt need to tear it down, but honestly I would feel better about redoing the whole motor. We are having the entire boat re upholstered and new glass put in. it might be more than what the boat is worth but its our first boat.

                      I am wanting to just get the gasket kits for the whole thing. How long, with all the right tools would it take to strip the motor down and to re assemble with all new gaskets and seals?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        So the manual I purchased was a brand new Clymers. It cover the L Drive. However I was reading that these are garbage... Did I just waste 35$???

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Even if you eventually take the engine apart if would be very important to try to get it running as well as possible first. After it's apart there isn't much testing and diagnosis that can be done. You might end up taking apart more than once if you don't know what problems it has. If you hear some bad noise, knocking etc. then stop and take it apart before there is any further damage. Unless there is something broken or leaking you might be better off with external reconditioning untill you get more expirence with what your are looking for. Go slow buying a bunch of parts that you don't really need, The cash might be better spent on something really broken. It may feel good to change a bunch of stuff but you would be better off if it ran better when you were finished.
                          Carl
                          2452

                          Comment


                            #14
                            gustoph0 wrote:
                            okay, guys i just ordered a brand new manual for this 120 hp L-drive. I know I was told i wouldnt need to tear it down, but honestly I would feel better about redoing the whole motor. We are having the entire boat re upholstered and new glass put in. it might be more than what the boat is worth but its our first boat.I am wanting to just get the gasket kits for the whole thing. How long, with all the right tools would it take to strip the motor down and to re assemble with all new gaskets and seals?
                            gustoph0 wrote:
                            My brother recently got an 1991 Capri cuddy. I think its either 19 or 21 foot. 1.... One thing we are sure of is that it is a 120hp force I/O L-Drive. I have seen ALOT of discouraging words about this engine.
                            1.... Those should be your key words right there.

                            IMO, you have placed the cart ahead of the horse, and not by a short distance either.

                            I'd cut your losses right now. Otherwise, you too will be among those who offer the discouraging words about this engine and drive system.... but only after spending your hard earned money!

                            Once an L drive boat, always an L drive boat, as this hull will not accept any other style stern drive.

                            My friend who owns and operates a marine salvage yard will not sell any L drive parts without the caveat that the buyer is on his own!

                            That in itself should speak loudly!

                            You may be upset at these words today, and if you move forward and learn the lesson the hard way, it will be a costly lesson.

                            Sorry.... but I'd much rather see you receive some facts here.

                            .
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              BLCarl wrote:
                              Even if you eventually take the engine apart if would be very important to try to get it running as well as possible first. After it's apart there isn't much testing and diagnosis that can be done. You might end up taking apart more than once if you don't know what problems it has. If you hear some bad noise, knocking etc. then stop and take it apart before there is any further damage. Unless there is something broken or leaking you might be better off with external reconditioning untill you get more expirence with what your are looking for. Go slow buying a bunch of parts that you don't really need, The cash might be better spent on something really broken. It may feel good to change a bunch of stuff but you would be better off if it ran better when you were finished.
                              I was looking around the motor housing and found the ID plate. It ends in a "B"120LD91B. Anybody know the major difference in this one and the 120LD91D? Did I atleast get the cleanest dirty shirt of the 2? I also turned it over a few times and it sounded clean and calm. Sounded perfect for that matter. I think I will take your advice and NOT tear it down. That being said, refering to your statement, external reconditioning, what all should I be looking for?

                              It has 2 small carbs. Should I atleast pull these and clean them inside and out? The gasket sets are around $4.00 each.

                              Replace the plugs and the wires.

                              Do a decarb treatment.

                              Do I need to do a compression test, just to be safe?

                              What else should I be planning to do before I take it out?

                              Like I said, I am not a captain by any means and really dont know what I should be lookinh to clean up and replace? I will be taking pictures before, during and after.

                              Thanks alot guys.

                              Comment

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