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**Guest** · 01-12-2012, 07:42 AM

That is one heck of a boat and it looks in nice shape.

All the amenities of a large boat.

If no rot you have scored.

**Guest** · 01-12-2012, 08:41 AM

Does the cat up on the bow come with the boat? Just kidding, what a great looking boat, looks to be well maintained. Hope you have many hours of enjoyment.

**2850Bounty** · 01-12-2012, 08:55 AM

For starters, we can't have an AQ series Volvo Penta drive painted Mercury or Mercruiser Black.

rod That is against BOC rules.

Actually, it looks pretty nice.

I'd suggest a back flow prevention flapper in the exhaust outlet..... unless the exhaust is now thru-transom.

Since you are replacing the anodes, the painted anode here is not an issue.... just don't paint the new ones.

There will be an anode on the shield also. Use caution removing the two screws... Heat!

If no history, I'd replace these:

Water neck fitting and special beaded gasket.

Drive shaft bellows.

Sea Water pump impeller.... regardless of what the PO said.... at least look at it.

Look very closely at the crimp sleeve where the shift cable sheathe connects to the shield.

These crimp sleeves can become rusted and cause the rubber sheathe to leak at this area.

The fix is to cut the sleeve off, shorten the hose by 1", replace and clamp with a SS Euro style clamp.

There will be six 1/2" hex nuts on the inside of the transom. These hold the shield in place.

Perhaps give each one a tighten up.

See if any of the large washers are sinking into the transom core.

See the BOC Vault V/P Q's and A's thread.

It won't touch on your diesel, but may give you some drive tips and pointers.

Perhaps group your batteries differently.

One cranking battery (#1 MBSS) and create one large House Load bank (#2 MBSS)

Your trailer axles are equipped with bearing buddies.

Find out if the PO used these thinking that they actually packed the bearings.

BB's do not pack, they simply provide pressure to keep water from within the hubs.

Just an FYI there.

Very clean boat...... looks to be in really nice condition. coo-

You'll enjoy this and the fuel economy.

.

**Guest** · 01-12-2012, 10:29 AM

the bottom paint isn't supposed to be touching the out drive either hey Rick?:worth

**Guest** · 01-12-2012, 02:08 PM

2850Bounty,

"flow prevention flapper in the exhaust outlet..... unless the exhaust is now thru-transom."

The exhaust is now thru-transom water cooled. He said the outdrive exhaust could be closed with "a cap", not sure if that needed or just cosmetic.

"Since you are replacing the anodes, the painted anode here is not an issue"

I want to replace all of the zincs the only problem I have is I am unsure where they are located?

I will check on everything that you listed here, Thank you for the advise.

How many bilge pumps at what rating should this boat have, I only recall seeing one?

I hate to ask after the fact, but how can I check for rot? I tried polking at the cavities and pushing/hitting on the hull inside and out looking for soft spots. It was dry and felt solid, the floor was strong I stompped on it in every spot. Is there anyway to know for sure?

Thanks to everyone I look forward to using it soon, and I am sure I will have more questions until I get my sea legs.

**Guest** · 01-12-2012, 10:31 PM

Congrats, she looks great. And a hard top

Please upgrade those trailer straps with something more suited for holding your boat onto the trailer. Those look small and I would guess the breaking load is way below what it needs to be.

If you have never operated a larger boat, try having someone with you that has operated a cruiser. Wind, docking, trailering takes practice with this size of boat. Keep your trips short the first few times on the water.

**2850Bounty** · 01-13-2012, 05:16 AM

seattleit wrote:
2850Bounty,

1 wrote:
The exhaust is now thru-transom water cooled. He said the outdrive exhaust could be closed with "a cap", not sure if that needed or just cosmetic.
I want to replace all of the zincs the only problem I have is I am unsure where they are located?
I will check on everything that you listed here, Thank you for the advise.
How many bilge pumps at what rating should this boat have, I only recall seeing one?
I hate to ask after the fact, but how can I check for rot? I tried polking at the cavities and pushing/hitting on the hull inside and out looking for soft spots. It was dry and felt solid, the floor was strong I stompped on it in every spot. Is there anyway to know for sure?

1 wrote:
The OEM in-line Engine down pipe is Stbd side, of which may have been an issue... not sure.

If so, he probably went thru-transom for ease of routing the exhaust... He may also have done this for less restriction.

Yes.... the existing down pipe and/or opening at the interior side of the shield would be somehow blocked off.
One ring-anode just ahead of the propeller (250/270/275 style ONLY), and one bar anode fastened to the lower-most area of the shield.

This is the one that you'll use caution on when removing the two screws. Heat the aluminum shield some before you try to remove these.
Possibly a mid ship pump, and definitely a main engine bay bilge pump that would be operated by a "Un-Interruptibel" power supply to a float switch since you plan to moore this boat.
Do as you did, but also look to see if any of the six plate washers are settling into the transom core.... especially the four lower ones, and in particular the two lowest.

You can also hammer (steel ball peen) on the interior of the transom core and listen for a dead area. You'll know the sound when/if you were to reach a solft or punky area.

Ofishal wrote:
the bottom paint isn't supposed to be touching the out drive either hey Rick?

I'd normally have caught this one, but Ofishal's eyes were sharper than mine. oop-

Good point!

If the anti-fouling paint is conductive, you'll want a 1" to 1-1/2" clear area around the shield and any other metal fixtures. I.E., NO Anti-Fouling paint contact with these metal components...... especially if you moore it. (transom shield, garboard drain fitting, swim platform strut mounts, etc.)

Contact by conductive A/F Paint will accellerate corrosion.

Edit:

BTW, you have a 275 drive, and a 275/280 style transom shield.

.

**Guest** · 01-13-2012, 02:17 PM

seattleit wrote:
Hello,

I just bought a Bayliner Explorer 2670 it has a small isuzu diesel moter and volvo outdrive.

Ah so you're the one that bought that. I hope you got a good deal on it. I remember seeing that boat on CL for past month or so. I was wondering how well the diesel retrofit looked. I've thought of retrofitting a diesel into mine if I ever blow the volvo up or wear it out. It would be interesting to see how he mated up the isuzu with the VP drive. There aren't many of these old explorers left and I always end up talking to the owners even before I bought one. Good luck and maybe we will see you out on the sound.

**Guest** · 01-13-2012, 04:01 PM

2850Bounty/ofishal,

"If the anti-fouling paint is conductive, you'll want a 1" to 1-1/2" clear area around the shield and any other metal fixtures. I.E., NO Anti-Fouling paint contact with these metal components...... especially if you moore it. (transom shield, garboard drain fitting, swim platform strut mounts, etc.)

Contact by conductive A/F Paint will accellerate corrosion. "

How do I clear an 1" to 1 1/2" around the metal? Should I remove the metal bits and use a non-conductive paint under them? How do I know if the bottom paint is conductive Votlmeter?

Rodger on the anodes, seems easy enough...except for the careful and heat part.

"Yes.... the existing down pipe and/or opening at the interior side of the shield would be somehow blocked off." - I dont think its blocked off on the outdrive, but it may be inside Ill look at both, though not sure how I will block it.

"BTW, you have a 275 drive, and a 275/280 style transom shield" - This info will be helpful to know when looking for parts, no manual included.

onthelake,

Good point Ill get some bigger straps tonight.

"If you have never operated a larger boat, try having someone with you that has operated a cruiser. Wind, docking, trailering takes practice with this size of boat. Keep your trips short the first few times on the water. " - Most of my friends have smaller boats or sailboats. I may take my sailboat frined with me even if he keeps calling it a stinkpot. Trust me I will keep close to the dock until I figure this boat out, its a lot bigger than the 17' I gave up, looks like I have a lot to learn.

pugetsounder,

I am going to make an attemp to get it ready to go to the Seattle Boat Show. If I make it, you can pop by and see how its setup. Maybe give me a few tips.

As for a "good deal" that remains to be seen, Ill let you know how the hammer and sunk washer inspections go.

Thanks agian for all of your input, looks like I have a lot of work to do.

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New (Old) boat Bayliner Explorer 2670-gctid342938

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