Water tank-gctid364915

[Guest]

Hi there guys.....I had a bad incident today, the lock on my circular saw broke and the level of the blade went down and pierced the plastic tank about 2 inches long ..... well the circular saw had to be replaced right after that the tool infortunally didnt survive my rage..... but that was a perfect reason to get a new one and a new vibrating saw.....

My question is .... there any marine cold weld for my plastic tank?

TKS guys....

[Guest]

glue? Resin? Silicone? Epoxi? Jb weld? The putty from tv? Lol

[Guest]

This was an issue a couple months ago - someone had a tank they were trying to repair.

I don't think he found anything that would work - you can try the P TEX sticks for ski repair. Slightly heat the surrounding area and melt the P Tex into the cut.

I think he even bought a plastic welder that didn't work.

Plastic is hard to fix and with all that water weight it tends to break any repair.

Good luck!

[Guest]

hmmm, how about Sea Cast? ok just kidding. If the cut is on top you probably don't have to worry too much about leakage, I would try an epoxy resin and see how that works, the only thing you really have to worry about is flexing. There are some plastic welding kits out there but they get kinda pricey....

maybe something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-34240-Sem...#ht_1056wt_827

[cwiert]

Alexirocz28 wrote:
The putty from tv? Lol

You mean this stuff?

www.getflexseal.com

Hey, it can keep a boat afloat, it MUST work. I haven't had much luck with JB weld in the past. It always cracks on me. I woudn't worry about water weight too much since it crack is up top. But you do need something that can flex a little. Flex Seal! Lol.:kidding

[Guest]

Ugh!! I'd be devistated. If there is any good news to this, it's that the cut is on the top. Good luck...let us know what works and don't go messing around with power saws in the cabin lol.

[captharv]

What I would do....

Sand the area around the wound, then clean with acetone.

I would pur an aluninum patch over it, but coat the tank and patch with 5200. (I use the fast set)

Then press the patch in place. Put a weight on it to provide pressure. Give it three days to set up and try it.

This worked on a plastic tank in my old boat.

[706jim]

Why not seal it "mechanically"?

Make up a plastic (or metal) patch large enough to comfortably cover the sawcut you made and use several stainless steel self tapping sheet metal screws to hold it in place. You can put some silicone under the patch to pretty much eliminate any leakage, but rely on the mechanical grip of the screws to actually hold it in place.

For sure this will work and at least you don't have to worry about any escaping fumes seeing that the tank is only holding water.

[boatworkfl]

captharv wrote:
What I would do....

Sand the area around the wound, then clean with acetone.

I would pur an aluninum patch over it, but coat the tank and patch with 5200. (I use the fast set)

Then press the patch in place. Put a weight on it to provide pressure. Give it three days to set up and try it.

This worked on a plastic tank in my old boat.

I would go with this method, as an alternitive you could sand the area then warm the cut with a heat gun slighty, then use hot glue with the aluminum patch, Ido think the the 5200 method may well be the best choice.

[Guest]

I being doing contraction work for over 10 years n car for even before I can remember I never had a screwup like that.... I never spected the screw for the level break and the saw drop specially in such a delicated work... At least was just the tank nothing serious. I am too much of perfectionist this gonna consume my thoughts for days.

Sorry for my ignorance but this 5200 I never heard about how does work or where can get some info and the actually product?

I thought about the mechanecly fast patch but I wonder if will not crack the tank when I tight the screw?

The flex seal infortunatly is only temporary and after I put my subfloor back I wont have acess to repatch

3m glue is it good??

Guys tks so much for all the ideas so far! If anybody has any ideas please let me know.

Once again thank you all

[jmcannonball]

3M 5200 is a boaters best friend! Use it as suggested in previous posts. It doesn't get "rock hard" and will flex enough for your purpose.

[LTCret]

Another alternative is to install a access port in the tank.

It is basically two pieces of either stainless or aluminum metal with rubber gaskets. The bolts tighten down the rubber gaskets and no leaks, plus you get a look at the gunk in the water tank.

I installed a SS one in the top of my plastic holding tank because of a odor coming from a old sending unit wire access. No more Odor!!

You can order them from Fisheries Supply in Seattle.

Good Luck

[Guest]

There is this stuff

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

Napa usually carries these kinds of things as well, just tell them you want something for plastic weld, im sure they can help you

[dmcb]

Do what Capt Harv says.

You can safely screw your patch to the tank also if you want a bit more holding power.

Just predrill a smaller hole. It will hold a screw just fine.

Take a look at this. These guys are drilling a hole in the SIDE of a holding tank and will screw this spray thingy to the side of the same kind of tank you just cut.

Just screws and a rubber gasket and it will hold. I have installed several of these over the years including my holding tank on out 3870.

If it works on these tanks you know you can screw in the patch on top of yours.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...nk-rinser/4969

You might think about adding one of these to your holding tank to clean it.

Doug

[Guest]

Great idea guys........

As soon as I start working on that I will post pictures....

Wile I am at the tank there is any "water level" gage for the tank to be installed?

Any other device I should/could install there? pre filter? hi pressure pump?

cant thank you guys enough