Remove Brightwork Snaps to Compound transom-gctid362098

[Guest]

I'm getting ready to remove pinstriping and buff above the rub rail on my 2655. It's heavily oxidized so I think it will be a 3 step process plus wax.

Is it worth it to remove the snaps & brightwork on the transom? Or would it be better to polish by hand around these things?

Thanks,

Greg

[Guest]

Leave the snaps. Hard to tell on the wood parts, depends on what they are exactly. Photo?

[Guest]

Greg, I have a 89 2655. How are you planning on removing the pinstripes? Mine seem to be baked on and not sure how to proceed with the removal? I would love it if you had a sure fire way? "Thanks"

[Guest]

I very carefully removed mine with a single-edge razor, then took the remaining adhesive off with acetone. I then wet sanded all the blue gelcoat with two progressively finer papers. I then went at it with buffing compound and then wax. It looked awesome for about a year. I just waxed it last year, and it started to show some oxidation again at the end of last season. Going to try some compound and then wax this year.

[Guest]

I used a heat gun, goof off, and a small pile of rags to soak up the glue / goof off. The heat gun took off the stripe itself, at times along with the glue. Other spots I left the glue, got the stripe off, then soaked with goof off. Let the goof off soak into the glue residue, then use a dry rag and wipe it off. Change rags as the glue will build up. Toss them away too.

Then prep the cleaned area and wet sand / buff as usual. It made my boat look soooo much better without the faded and cracked pin stripes.

I also used a plastic putty knife in some areas. The blue stripe came off easier than the grey, for whatever reason. Fingernails work fine to get the removal started, watch out for the heat gun. I'd stay away from razor blades if you can. Those scratches do not come out so easily. Better off with patience and letting the glue saturate with goof off..... IMO.