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    marine water heater-gctid361574

    wondering if someone can look at this pic of my water heater hook up and tell me if i have it wrong. i just hooked it up today and after running the motor for a while i do not get any hot water.... at best maybe cool warm water. water heater is working because i get hot water if elc is turned on.

    thanks rusty

    Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664554=25503-volvo penta 007.JPG[/img]

    #2
    There should be a plug on the manifold just to the left of where you have it. Use that in stead of where you have it on the thermostat housing. That will give you water from the other side of the thermostat
    1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
    twin 454's
    MV Mar-Y-Sol
    1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
    Twin chevy 350's inboard
    Ben- Jamin
    spokane Washington

    Comment


      #3
      The input to the heater from the engine is wrong. Go to the manifold and find the fitting and then use a brass barbed fitting. the return should come from the heater to the water pump so it will circulate correctly
      David
      http://www.cambridgeadvertising.org
      http://www.davidladewig.com

      Comment


        #4
        Edit to my originally post.....

        The hose from the water pump. I think that one looks good. The one in the thermostat housing is wrong. Closer look looks like you have a pipe coming out of the the intake manifold where I was saying there is a plug. That is also where the other hose should be connected to. If you have a plug in the same place on the other side of the manifold you could use that.
        1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
        twin 454's
        MV Mar-Y-Sol
        1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
        Twin chevy 350's inboard
        Ben- Jamin
        spokane Washington

        Comment


          #5
          Rusty, as this is now, you are supplying the WH with "spent" sea water flow that is intended to go directly to and out the Stbd exhaust manifold. Most of this water has not entered the engine block, and is actually by-passing engine cooling demands.You may not only be restricting that exhaust manifold from cooling water, but the temperature at this point will not provide enough heat to the WH.The WH supply will be from the port that Dave mentions.This is "Up-Stream" of the thermostat where the Engine Circulating pump will be mildly pressurizing the engine block.We need the T-stat restriction in order to create supply pressure.You may have only one port here and may need to "T" into this for both temp sender and WH supply.The return will be the Stbd-most suction port in the Engine Circulating pump.Arrow points to the general area... but this port can't be seen in your photo.(see attached image)This is the only way that the WH supply/return will be balanced.You'll want to reinstall the OEM T-stat to Manifold hose.Don't forget that the heat exchanger loop in the WH now must also be drained during winter lay up.Exhaust: I made a note regarding the exhaust couplers (red arrows) and the aft-most riser clamps.Your couplers appear to be too far rearward, and the clamps may be squeezing the rubber into the riser scalloped areas where the sea water enters exhaust flow. If so, this will restrict water flow.Try to move these forward and up further onto the risers (green arrows) and allow the scalloped areas to be un-restricted.

          [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664590=25510-Rusty AQ570 raw water cooled WH plumbing.jpg[/img]

          [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664590=25511-SBC Circ Pump.jpg[/img]

          [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664590=25512-AQ260 riser.jpg[/img]
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            Here's an old one that I've posted before.

            This one is for a Closed Cooling system, but for WH or Cabin Heater.... same basic plumbing minus the closed loop.

            Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/664620=25514-SBC cooling-system.jpg[/img]
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              ok i took a closer look at what is there. from this picture ..... and from re- reading your post i will need a t for both water hose and temp gauge (what would this be called and where might i find this? the other plug that i saw was on the top of the water pump. this is very close to the belt pully, and also i would have to take off the thing-(?) dont know what that is called, but it is where the thermstat goes on a car motor- to put some kind of hose attchment elbow. does this make sense. if i need to post some pics i can.thanks to all!!! for this help!!!
              2850Bounty wrote:
              Rusty, as this is now, you are supplying the WH with "spent" sea water flow that is intended to go directly to and out the Stbd exhaust manifold. Most of this water has not entered the engine block, and is actually by-passing engine cooling demands.You may not only be restricting that exhaust manifold from cooling water, but the temperature at this point will not provide enough heat to the WH.The WH supply will be from the port that Dave mentions.This is "Up-Stream" of the thermostat where the Engine Circulating pump will be mildly pressurizing the engine block.We need the T-stat restriction in order to create supply pressure.You may have only one port here and may need to "T" into this for both temp sender and WH supply.The return will be the Stbd-most suction port in the Engine Circulating pump.Arrow points to the general area... but this port can't be seen in your photo.(see attached image)This is the only way that the WH supply/return will be balanced.You'll want to reinstall the OEM T-stat to Manifold hose.Don't forget that the heat exchanger loop in the WH now must also be drained during winter lay up.Exhaust: I made a note regarding the exhaust couplers (red arrows) and the aft-most riser clamps.Your couplers appear to be too far rearward, and the clamps may be squeezing the rubber into the riser scalloped areas where the sea water enters exhaust flow. If so, this will restrict water flow.Try to move these forward and up further onto the risers (green arrows) and allow the scalloped areas to be un-restricted.

              http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

              http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

              http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

              Comment


                #8
                once again re- read your post and will take a closer look couplers, speaking of restricting water flow, what is the temp this motor be running at?....... i think it was running about 150 to 160. again thanksrusty
                2850Bounty wrote:
                Rusty, as this is now, you are supplying the WH with "spent" sea water flow that is intended to go directly to and out the Stbd exhaust manifold. Most of this water has not entered the engine block, and is actually by-passing engine cooling demands.You may not only be restricting that exhaust manifold from cooling water, but the temperature at this point will not provide enough heat to the WH.The WH supply will be from the port that Dave mentions.This is "Up-Stream" of the thermostat where the Engine Circulating pump will be mildly pressurizing the engine block.We need the T-stat restriction in order to create supply pressure.You may have only one port here and may need to "T" into this for both temp sender and WH supply.The return will be the Stbd-most suction port in the Engine Circulating pump.Arrow points to the general area... but this port can't be seen in your photo.(see attached image)This is the only way that the WH supply/return will be balanced.You'll want to reinstall the OEM T-stat to Manifold hose.Don't forget that the heat exchanger loop in the WH now must also be drained during winter lay up.Exhaust: I made a note regarding the exhaust couplers (red arrows) and the aft-most riser clamps.Your couplers appear to be too far rearward, and the clamps may be squeezing the rubber into the riser scalloped areas where the sea water enters exhaust flow. If so, this will restrict water flow.Try to move these forward and up further onto the risers (green arrows) and allow the scalloped areas to be un-restricted.

                http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

                http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

                http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hot water heater colour cold blue and engine colour hot red - bad karma - talk nicely to them and they will change - well forget that but look at 2850 - he knows what he is doing

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Rusty, take another look at this image.

                    The black sea water hose in the image must be reconnected to be schematically mirroring the Port side.

                    T stat outlet fitting to front inlet on Exhaust Man... just like the Port side.



                    The WH "exchanger tube" doesn't care which end you supply. It's non-directional..... either will work.

                    What does matter, is where/how you tap into the engine coolant system and where/how you connect the return.

                    The WH supply must be Up-Stream from the thermostat. (meaning in the direction of flow)

                    Where the temp gauge sender is now, you will need to remove it.

                    Then fit a bronze 1/2" TP nipple into this port.

                    Now install a 1/2" TP bronze T onto the nipple.

                    Re-install the temp sender into the top (no teflon tape on any of these).

                    Now connect a 1/2" TP barbed fitting (correct for the hose ID) into the remaining open T port for your supply to the WH supply.

                    As for the return, the largest and best port for this is the port that I pointed out to you in the Circ Pump image.



                    Do this, and your system will work.

                    Edit:

                    I mentioned that the WH heat exchanger tube doesn't care which is supply or return.... and that is true. Doesn't matter which.

                    However, on the potable water side, this connection is Directional.

                    IOW, there will definitely be specific COLD and HOT connections.

                    .
                    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Comment


                      #11
                      got the tank hook up like you said, however the water still does not get hot or even warm. i have only let the engine idle a few times for maybe 15 20 minutes at a time??? wonder if it takes longer? or maybe at idle will not circulating enough? not sure. any suggestions.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I just read this entire thread, and this is how it ends?!

                        ...like the last episode of the Sopranos.

                        Comment

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