Our Bayliner Contessa Project-gctid358470

[Guest]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/661417=25440-contessa bossup.jpg[/img]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/661417=25427-bayliner contessa.jpg[/img]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/661417=25428-contessa2850.jpg[/img] This is our Contessa boat projecthttp://www.flickr.com/photos/7752827...in/photostream

[tonyiiiafl]

WELCOME!

You will see there are a lot of us here with the beloved Contessa. Mine is a Sunbridge. She looks great and I am sure with a little cleaning up will shine again and serve you well!

[Guest]

Thanks Tony..Were almost done with her .

[itsabowtime2]

Twin engine, very nice.

Enjoy the time with the kids on the boat...it is awesome!!!!

[2850Bounty]

Welcome to the BOC and to Boating.

I just now peeked in.

From what I understand, that is rare to find the Contessa SDN F/B boat with twin V-6 or V-8 engines. Looks like you have the 4.3L's

I own it's earlier and bigger brother, the 2850 Bounty with twin V-8 Volvos.

You will love the aspect of twins in this boat. It should scoot right along.

None of my business, but I could not help but notice a few things that you may want to be made aware of:

• If you end up towing often, you may want a third axle for this size/weight hull.
• In looking at your Holley carburetors, I'm suspect that these are Automotive.
  
  If these have the site holes in the float bowls on the Stbd side (which I think I see), you will not pass an inspection if the inspector is sharp.
• Red distributor caps would indicate automotive ignition systems as well.
  
  This too may get you a citation, and they will be incorrect for a Marine system curve and advance limits.
• NOTE: your bottom paint appears to be right up next to your transom shields and other metal components.
  
  You'll want a minimum of a 1" clear space around any metal components.
  
  If you do not clear this area from conductive bottom paint, it will accelerate corrosion at these areas.
• I may be wrong, but it looks like you have hull bottom paint on your drives.
  
  You will not want any conductive bottom paint applied to your out drives. There are special paints for drives.
  
  If this is hull paint, and if conductive, you'll want to remove this and apply the correct out drive anti-fouling paint!
  
  Otherwise, it can damage your out drives.

I'm just giving you a heads-up in hopes of saving you some hassles.

Have fun and enjoy the boat.

.

[yachtman]

You should fill out you signature so we know more about your boat and where you are from.

I can't wait to see more pics.

[Guest]

Thanks for the Info guys I will look into those things ..We did rebuild the crabs working on the drives now..

[2850Bounty]

mac0ne01 wrote:
Thanks for the Info guys I will look into those things ..

1.... We did rebuild the crabs

2.... working on the drives now

1.... I just mentioned that so that you were aware of the USCG regulations and that these could get you a citation.

2.... See the BOC Vault thread titled https://"http://www.baylinerownerscl... Q's & A's</b> for any V/P drive related help.

Keep up the good work!

.

[Guest]

Thanks again

[Fire Escape]

Great pictures of your kids. They are at great ages to start spending quality time on the water.

Rick offered some great advice: "In looking at your Holley carburetors, I'm suspect that these are Automotive.

If these have the site holes in the float bowls on the Stbd side (which I think I see), you will not pass an inspection if the inspector is sharp.

Red distributor caps would indicate automotive ignition systems as well.

This too may get you a citation, and they will be incorrect for a Marine system curve and advance limits."

Even more important than a potential ticket from the use of automotive parts (carb., alternator, distributor, starter etc.) is the fire/explosion hazard they present. Picture a small fuel leak from an automotive carb. leaking gas on a hot engine. The gas vapors (heavier than air) find an ignition source (automotive dist., starter, alternator etc.) and boom.

I would check your starter and alternators as well to ensure they are marinized versions (look for sealed units or a wire mesh screen covering any openings). Good luck and have fun on the water.

[2850Bounty]

Fire Escape wrote:
Even more important than a potential ticket from the use of automotive parts (carb., alternator, distributor, starter etc.) is the fire/explosion hazard they present. Picture a small fuel leak from an automotive carb. leaking gas on a hot engine. The gas vapors (heavier than air) find an ignition source (automotive dist., starter, alternator etc.) and boom.

I would check your starter and alternators as well to ensure they are marinized versions (look for sealed units or a wire mesh screen covering any openings). Good luck and have fun on the water.

Agreed... it's a fire/explosion safety issue.

Apparently some of the Holley site hole plugs have come loose over the years. When they do, fuel can spill onto the engine.

Not a big deal on a car or truck, but for Marine.... it is a potential safety/life hazard.

This is what Mr. Fire Escape is refering to.

Fuel metering may be incorrect also.

Likewise with our starter motors, alternators, and YOUR ignition distributors not being "ignition source protected".

Plus the automotive distributor advance curve/limit is likely incorrect for marine loads. It's not worth the risk of damaging your engines.

.