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Finished rails on 32xx-gctid466102

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    #16
    green650 wrote:
    After stripping with heat gun and scraper, I hit it with 40, 80, then 120 on the belt sander. Wood was rough, had deep cracks, and I wanted it to look smooth. Probably took off up to an 1/8".

    http://s532.photobucket.com/user/gre....jpg[/IMG]
    Tell ya wath, I will make you a deal, you come up here and make my wood look like yours, in return i will take you fishing and make you some canvas for your boat. Kevin
    1988 3270
    135 hinos
    Seldovia ALASKA
    KEVINS UPHOLSTERY
    KEVINSBOATTOPS.COM
    Marine canvas/Upholstery
    since 1975

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      #17
      A little tip for drilling out the holes. Use what's called a Forstner bit. They will not tear out as the crown of the bit is slightly larger than the rest of the rest of it. The only drawback is that they will not centre in an existing hole (similar to a spade bit). The trick is to drill a pilot hole through a piece of 1/2" plywood and then have a friend, or a clamp, hold the "template" directly over the hole to be drilled. There's no need to use a lot of pressure when starting the hole. Nice clean hole with no tear out.
      Bob Hawes.
      Kelowna, B.C.
      1998 Trophy 2052 WA
      4.3 Vortec, A1 G2

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        #18
        You pulled some great color out of that wood.

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          #19
          Since I had to take off the cleats to properly sand the rails, I secured the stern using the starboard stern eye. Other than being unconventional, is there anything wrong doing this after I put the cleats back on?

          The reason I ask is as you can see in the picture, I do not have to step over the rope now when I step onto the swim platform.

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            #20
            Very Nice

            I have the same boat and its time to redo the wood

            Gorgeous !

            Thanks for sharing

            Patrick
            '89- 3288......"Weather's Here ... Wish you were Fine"

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              #21
              "green650" post=466107 wrote:
              Another shot after 2 coats of cetol natural teak. I might just do one more coat and leave it. Not sure if Im going to also do the gloss coat.
              WARNING!!!

              You will regret not using the Cetol Clear it is required in order to preseve your work. The Cetol colors (Natural Teak for example) have NO UV protection, the UV will break it down in no time and will require you to redo everything (THE UV PROTECTION IS ONLY IN THE CLEAR). The coats you applied are FOR COLOR ONLY and are not finish coats, you will need another 4+ coats of the clear before it is time to rest. Also when/if you apply the clear Cetol thin the 1st and last coat, try not to sand between coats if possible, try scotchbrite instead. Cetol coats are very thin and every time you sand you will remove a coat.

              By the way your work looks great

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                #22
                Also note that the Cetol color coats should be limited to the amount the wood will absorb. when I did mine two coats was sufficient and any more would just create a build up on top of the wood which has no benefit as well as will diffuse the wood grain. That does not mean that third d coat is not possible. Keep in mind the color coat is just that it is to be used to achieve your designed color more will not add to the finish especially since that is the job of the clear coats

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                  #23
                  Your cap rails look good. I did the very same a few weeks ago to include the salon door, window frame, etc. The whole back end in short. Spent hours on-line and on telephone to get some reliable answers regarding the finish to use. Decided on three coats Cetol, no need to sand between. If there is a piece of dust or other, the rough side of a kitchen sponge seemed to do the job rather than sandpaper. Cheap throw-a-way sponge brushes work just fine. No bristles. If you use a brush, use a very good one to avoid bristles coming off. You can save having to clean the brush if you need to come back the next day by wrapping tight in a plastic baggie and tighten down with a rubber band.

                  Cetol folks told me that UV is not an issue and no need for Cetol Clear if a gloss not wanted. The Cetol products have been reformulated such that they all have UV inhibitors. Rep says to look at the label and note there is UV inhibitors. Multiple coats has diminishing return UV protection. They did say however that the conditions under which the boat is exposed will have an effect on finish longevity. Under cover in a boat house on fresh water versus exposed on the salt side of the locks for example. Since I am cockpit canvas covered and on the lake, three coats of Cetol Natural might be plenty 'nuff.

                  Will wait to see how the finish lasts. Just thought I'd share this. Thanks.
                  Ned Porges / Seattle

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