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1990 2556 Fuel Tank Replacement

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    1990 2556 Fuel Tank Replacement

    Hello,
    started my fuel tank replacement this weekend. Bought the boat about 2 months ago. Its in overall decent condition, only 600 hours on the 7.4 mercruiser.

    The fuel tank is not leaking but the bildge was a mess so i would like to start off with a fresh bildge, and a fresh fuel tank so i dont need to worry about it.

    Built the gantry saturday morning, and had the motor pulled by 5pm. This was my first engine removal. Had to take off both manifolds and barely squeeze it out.

    Last night i cut out the bulkhead, it was pretty wet. I measured 3" back on the engine stringers and cut them at an angle down. The tank is loose and i can move it, but im going to have to cut stringers further back to get it out.

    Stringers are wet but fairly solid. I was hoping not to have to deal with them.. but fear i may have to. I will see how they are the further back i cut. The engine mount lagbolts were in solid. So hoping it gets dryer the further back i go.

    Thats all for now. And advice is welcome. I will post updates as i go.


    #2
    Got the tank out this morning. If anyone is wondering. You have to cut the stringers back 12" from the bulkhead to get the tank out. Also I left the fishwell installed just to see if it could be done, and it can. Barely cleared.
    the area under the tank didnt look as bad as i thought it would.

    Tank is not leaking, for the most part looks really good. But has some pitting at the strap locations. Honestly not as bad as i thought it would be. Now I almost feel like maybe i should get it repaired in lieu of a new one? Possibly fix the pitted areas then paint.
    Any thoughs on this?

    Stringers are solid but moist. Whats the reccomendation? Cut off the top cap of the fiberglass stringers and replace the wood? Or splice back in the 1' i cut out?

    Attached Files

    Comment


      #3
      How do you feel about pulling the engines, cutting the bulkhead out, yanking it out then fixing the fiberglass two times? It's out, it's old, you will never have it be this easy to get a new tank in.
      Tally and Vicki
      "Wickus" Meridian 341
      MMSI 338014939

      Comment


        #4
        Nice work dude!
        Agree with Tally. Not sure you’ll find anyone that’ll repair the old tank, I vote go with a new one.
        where you located?
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556
        Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #5
          A new tank for speedy tanks shouldnt be more than 2k shipped.


          As for the wet stingers, no time to replace them is better than bow.

          i buy my epoxy and fiberglass from us epoxies. I go cheap on the plywood and go cdx via local builders supply.

          so do it once. Do it right. Power on another 30 plus years.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the advice. Im in Bellingham, so getting a tank from coastline is a pretty easy solution for me. It'll be about $1275 after tax. You guys are right. This is the best time to replace stringer (as ive already cut 1/3 of them out).

            My question is, should i just cut the top of the fiberglass stringer and leave the rest of the sides? Or should i cut the whole stringer shells off? Ive seen people recommend just cutting the top off.

            Builderdude, what type of paint and primer did you use on your tank? I like the look of a white tank.

            Any votes on removing or keeping my fishwell? I like the idea of the shelf over the fuel tank, but feel like more rain water would drip down from the hatch if the fishwell wasnt there.

            Comment


              #7
              Gaskets around the perimeter of the fish and engine hatch’s will keep water from getting in there. You may want to look into modifying the engine bay ventilator grills/collector boxes, OEM ventilators let tons of rain water in.
              I love the non existent fish well on my boat, I open that forward hatch and hop down in there often to check engine oil level, belt tension, timing etc. I also use that space to store two separate shrimp pot lines (400’ each) and marker floats in removable rubber made totes as well as my marine bbq.
              I’d recommend leaving as much of the stringer shells intact as possible and just hog out the rotten stuff, it’ll make glassing things back together substantially quicker.
              On my tank I prepped (sanded and cleaned) and primed with zinc chromate then top coated with rustolium rattle can enamel. If I had to do it again I’d use an epoxy topcoat for even more piece of mind.
              Id also suggest you update and/or replace anything you can get your hands on while your engine is out. I moved a lot of stuff around to improve my engine access as well as increasing bilge pump capacity and adding a secondary bilge pump. Additional batteries sit on custom “shelves” on both sides moving them further away from the engine improving engine access. Your engine bay will be much tighter with ya big block.
              One other thing to consider: concrete removal from the port side box, a simple drill test will reveal if yours has it or not.
              Dave
              Edmonds, WA
              "THE FIX"
              '93 2556
              Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
              Misc. projects thread
              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

              Comment


                #8
                I pulled almost a mile (exaggeration) of bundled wire out of the engine compartment. Bayliner used the same harness on a 25 as they did on the bigger boats. It was just cabled tied in. Custom crimps, a new buss bar, and new ties made it pretty and organized. You will never (hopefully) have the engine out again. New bolts on the starter. Have a good look at the coupler; mine looked new. How is the blower working. All the things that would be harder with an engine in the way.
                Tally and Vicki
                "Wickus" Meridian 341
                MMSI 338014939

                Comment


                  #9
                  Whenever possible I pull the top cap out of the stinger or motor mount for rebuilding, working from the top. This is easier when the wood has detached due to improper lay up adhesion or rot. Its imperative all old wood comes out if it's rotted as it will go to the new wood quickly.

                  if the wood is stuck to the sides of the stinger so bad it won't come loose I cut it out the stinger, if you damage the fiberglass removing it she's not worth reusing anyway.

                  Its itchy tedious work

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well you've convinced me. Fishwell was cutout tonight. I already like it better. Access to the bildge will be much better now.
                    This weekend I plan to get the fiberglass tops of the stringers cut off and prep for new stringers.

                    I may be able to get my hands on some coosa board for the stringers. Tbd. Otherwise ill be looking at some vertical grain fir.

                    I may be tempted to check for some concrete as well.
                    My batteries are already on the port side, and I dont have a list while sitting in the water. So wondering if I do have concrete or not.






                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The weekend came and went too fast but i got the stringers (mostly) out. I think i need to take of the exhaust Y-pipe to get to the rest of the stringers. I started cleaning the sidewalls and prepping for sanding and grinding. Didnt get as far as intended but progress is still progress!
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Brings back some memories looking at your pics, nice work!👍🏼
                        You’ve removed most of the engine stringer core material back to the drain tubes and that’s where BL decided they could just drop in some blocking between the drain tubes and the transom core. I’d say clean and abrade the area that you can access forward of and around the drain tubes then seal that up with epoxy, build your new stringer cores and wet set them in place. Looks like your removing the bilge pump pad also. I did the same, that’ll allow you to install a larger bilge pump which is a good thing imo.
                        Dave
                        Edmonds, WA
                        "THE FIX"
                        '93 2556
                        Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                        Misc. projects thread
                        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                        Comment

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