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Main d.c board, charger center and instrument panel sub assemblies ready for install

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    Main d.c board, charger center and instrument panel sub assemblies ready for install

    Replacing/ upgrading the wiring/ components of the main higher amperage section of the D.C. power section in my '90 2655 Ciera S.B . What was there served her well but it was time after 26 years. Plus my goal throughout this restoration/ refirb is to upgrade to more modern technology as well as to get quality and craftsmanship several levels above "production line" standards. I don't want to be reworking any of this stuff any time soon....or down the road any sooner than possible for that matter... Started with the Combiner/ ACR system from BlueSea. The old Perko switch was mounted on a wood mount that attached with screws entering from the OUTSIDE of the hull! Accessed via a screw lid deck access panel in the port inner wall just before the transition to the stern. Made a wood panel for the D.C components as well as the battery charger but by the time I got them cut as small as I could and painted them enough to seal them they were quite heavy Being an acft tech, I pondered a composite panel for the switch setup, the ACR, a NEG buss bar and a resettable 30 amp breaker to feed one of the two new fuse blocks under the helm that are now fed by 8 ga. wire in instead of the original 10 ga. Although lightweight, it'd be expensive and labor intense, edge sealing, measuring holes potting in inserts, etc. Wood seems the norm but sealing, painting and mounting brackets to make it sturdy/ durable enough just didn't appeal either. I found the perfect remedy in the kitchen section of the local WallyMart. A synthetic 5/16" thick, 15"x20" cutting board for under 5 bucks! Light weight, very rigid, won't rot and already white! Not wanting to disturb the crude but dry original MBSS switch, I will mount the board right to the old MBSS mount block, needing no further structural reinforcement and have plenty of room for additions. I can shorten the main cable lengths, set the batteries more outboard and route wiring outbd of them to "clean up" the port Battery deck and allow room for feet when working on the engine and not smash, stretch and break the wiring as the P/O . This will also move some components and the batteries slightly forward, and the charger almost 3 ft forward. Should help in leveling her better in the water when at rest and help get on plane quicker It will move the switch a bit "shallower a reach I'll have to reach through the round access panel and I can access the rest from the eng room.

    I did a similar panel for the 3 bank charger assy securing the wiring to it; which will mount on the fwd eng. bulkhead/ aft berth wall in line with the battery deck.The charger assy. will mount vertically to the port battery deck just a few inches off the bulkhead/ wall dividing the eng room from the aft berth. with Stainless "L" brackets at bottom and wood 2x4" wood squares between the top edge and the wall screwed in from the berth area and shorter ones through the board into the squares. The BATT monitor panel's wiring will follow the "ceiling" of the eng. room across and route in with all other wiring running fwd to the helm.

    The instrument panel info/ warnings are still readable so it stays. Cleaned it best I could, removed and took apart the gaged to polish the lenses with a headlight restoration kit I'm now glad I didn't get rid of after doing my vehicles. I relocated the Standard Horizon GX 1700 to the l'h (inbd) side of the inst panel to better protect it and have better and safer controlling and viewing as the pervious radio was mounted below knee level to the inner wall below the throttle assy and it's padded board.. I had to make sure before ( per STD Horizon's instructions) committing to that spot though that the GPS would still acquire satellites so I set deeper into the cutout behind the panel and put up the Bimini. Good to go! The right side holds the BATT status monitor and the two silver buttons below that are back lit stainless switches. One for the red/ white 2.5" LED lights mounted in the top padded arch panel and the other for the blue LED underwater fishing swimming light/ drain plug I just couldn't live without. It will look cool at night... like it's being propelled by a mass of blue foam! Should have these sub assys installed soon. Will copy this to the Facebook page too.
    Dave


    Main D.C. Panel Completed charger panel. Instrument panel ready to install
    Dave
    N.C. Boater, fresh and salt water. New to boating in 2009
    1990 Sunbridge 2655 "One Particular Harbour"
    5.7 Mercruiser Alpha 1 Gen 1
    Past:
    1995 SeaPro 210 C/C "Hydro-Therapy"
    Mariner 150
    Towing with:
    2002 Ford F 350 7.3L Super Duty
    West of Hickory NC

    #2
    Found some "before" shots I took for the transformation album (IF I can get it all done before I die of old age LOL) Major, minor, visible or not, Every project's getting the same attention to detail and effort. Cheaper than buying new AND helps to maintain her original personality.
    Dave
    N.C. Boater, fresh and salt water. New to boating in 2009
    1990 Sunbridge 2655 "One Particular Harbour"
    5.7 Mercruiser Alpha 1 Gen 1
    Past:
    1995 SeaPro 210 C/C "Hydro-Therapy"
    Mariner 150
    Towing with:
    2002 Ford F 350 7.3L Super Duty
    West of Hickory NC

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