Bowsprit modification on 2001 3988

[Ahaua]

It took long enough but I finally completed the pulpit modification on my 2001 3988; pictures are attached, (only three pictures are allowed per post). The original bowsprit contributed to a LOA of 46' 3". Now, the LOA is about 43' 4". It appears that they used 5200 adhesive under the original pulpit so it took some elbow grease and patience to remove it. Unfortunately, it took some of the gelcoat with it so repairs were needed. Once I removed what was left of the 5200, I used a dremel tool to create a good, clean surface for the Marine Rx. Epoxy. I also used some Penetrating Epoxy on the large hole where the spot light wiring ran through. Once repairs were made, I had a 1/8" thick, polished stainless plate made to cover the area. I also had the stainless guy weld a section of bow rail to close the gap on the front of the boat. In regards to the anchor, I opted for a Bruce type, 44 lb. Lewmar Claw anchor, along with a BRM3 stainless bow roller. Instead of using 5200, with the advice from a buddy, I used copious amounts of 4200 adhesive under the stainless plate and bow roller to provide a water tight seal. If I ever have to remove anything, it will save me a lot of work. Of importance is to make sure you have enough clearance between the anchor claws and the bow of the boat. A dock buddy, with the same boat, made a similar modification but his anchor ended up too close to the bow of the boat. Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the results.

[SprinterX]

Looks good, nice work.

[Jeffw]

Great job Alex!

[Jim_Gandee]

Excellent work buddy!

[ksanders]

That really looks nice!

[ken51k]

OK, now that you have finally got it done and perfected you can start making mine.

Very nice job.

[Centerline2]

what you are going to find that is missing is the bail over the roller to keep the line from jumping out on a rough anchorage, or the anchor from bouncing out in a rough seaway... unless you are only a fair weather sailor, it WILL be a problem.

[Ahaua]

Great observation and I'm already planning on having my stainless guy weld one onto the roller. I'm also looking for either a heavy duty anchor shackle or swivel. The shackle I have on now is only temporary. I'm just having a hard time finding a shackle or swivel that fits both the anchor and the chain. Thanks for your comment!

[bal734]

Looks great, I’m taking notes.

[Ahaua]

Thanks! I like the saying in your signature....lol....words of wisdom

[Woodsea]

Alex,
you might want to consider bolting on the bale to restrain the anchor rather than welding. That way it can be removed if nessessry. Mine has gotten bent but can be straightened more easily by removing.

[Ahaua]

Thanks for the advice! Will definitely consider that.....

[boatworkfl]

I did not install a bail over my BRM3 and that was 8 years ago and have never had an issue with the anchor jumping out nor the line when anchored.

[Maravida]

Ahaua

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Have you been happy with this mod over the long haul? Any changes you have or would like to make. Are you happy the the anchor you chose?

Thanks for any update you can provide.

Marc

[Ahaua]

Marc, sorry for the late response. I have been extremely happy with this mod! I, honestly, wouldn't change anything. I chose the 44 lb bruce anchor and it worked out great. You may be able to get away with a 33 lb. bruce. Hope this information helps

[bal734]

I did this mod and have never looked back. Can’t count the number of times I’ve squeezed into a space that having the pulpit would not allow. The shorter LOA will pay for the mod with a hundred more stays at Roche Harbor.
Only change I made was to install the Wind Line URS-1 roller. It gave me a little more flexibility to adjust the roller forward or aft to fit the anchor, and it fits the Bruce anchor just fine.
Thanks to you and Guntar for photos and help.

[Ahaua]

That looks great and I agree with the advantages of losing the long nose! I also think that the boat looks much better.

[courtjester]

Was the shank of the replacement anchor significantly shorter than that of the original? One of the issues 'm wrestling with is that to do what I would like, I'll need a few inches shorter on the shank. I actually thought about shortening the existing one, but I'm sure someone out there will tell me that messing with anchor geometry is bad juju.
toni

[Ahaua]

In my case, I installed the new roller forward enough to prevent the anchor from hitting the bow and, although the anchor shank is close to the windlass, it worked just fine. I'm sure you've tried making these adjustments and are still having a problem so have you explored other anchor options? I don't know enough to comment on whether it's a good idea to shorten the existing anchor shank. Good luck and let us know what you come up with.

[guntar]

I and Bal734 have the 44lb bruce and have no issues with clearance or fit? Not sure why you need a shorter shank. You do have to measure exactly the placement of the bow roller. Done properly you should have no issue with clearance.

[jimbo88]

This is my setup with a 44 lb Lewmar Bruce as well. It fits fine with Bruce and very compact.




However, we are not really happy with the Bruce in all situations and are thinking of moving to different and larger anchor such as a Rocna or Vulcan, and to do that we would require a longer Anchor roller

The new Mantus bow rollers look great -- more money but very nice products and and have some nice features.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/bow-roller/

Ideally , on the 3988 , the windlass should be moved back as it was placed assuming a long bowsprit.

Jim