Daves misc. projects thread my 2556

[builderdude BOC Site Team Find all posts View Profile Close builderdude]

I decided to add these block drain valves (brass 1/4 turn compressor drain valves) to aid in the draining of the EG side of the cooling system. dont like the thought of EG in the bilge. I keep a threaded plug in them in the event engine vibration causes one or both of the valves to rotate to the open position.

When draining becomes necessary I ensure the valves or closed and remove the plug and install a 1/4" X 3/8" threaded hose barb and run the hose into an empty jug laying on its side next to the engine mount.

Did this a while ago so I could add my new temp switch for the engine alarm without spilling toxic EG into the bilge, worked out great.

[Ruffryder Guru Find all posts View Profile Close Ruffryder]

Nice clean work as usual Dave, would be even nicer on raw water Cooled engines winterizing.

Sup with that hose down below brother?

[builderdude BOC Site Team Find all posts View Profile Close builderdude]

"Ruffryder" post=789777 wrote:
Nice clean work as usual Dave, would be even nicer on raw water Cooled engines winterizing.

Sup with that hose down below brother?

Thanks Joon. Good eye dude.... yea the hose feeding the PS cooler is a bit rough, have a new one on the way.

[builderdude BOC Site Team Find all posts View Profile Close builderdude]

I'm very pleased with my new Vortec top end but during the chang over I lost the provision to mount the original choke helix to the intake manifold My Webber carburetor seems to be working great so I didn't feel the need to swap it out with a new one just to gain the advantage of the electric choke system. After some internet research I decided to try an aftermarket electric choke conversion kit. Couldn't find anything for the marine Webber however the Webber happens to be a mirror image of today's Edelbrock marine carb so I went with a choke kit from Edelbrock (#1478) from Summit.

The kit is a direct bolt on however my current Webber was lacking the vacuum port provision needed for the internal choke pull off to function properly. The vacuum port had not been drilled from the factory so I had to do it.

After I drilled the port a shot of compressed air ensured there were no aluminum shavings left behind. The kit installed without any problems and appears to function properly although some tweaking will likely be necessary.

[Ruffryder Guru Find all posts View Profile Close Ruffryder]

I see everything :P

Good preventive measure though, once my 4.3 FWs was overheating, found out to be the mani plug came loose EG all over so I had to choose either beer or saltwater to fill it you already know what I went with.

[Jeffw Guru Find all posts View Profile Close Jeffw]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is "EG?"

[HueyCrew Supporting Member Find all posts View Profile Close HueyCrew]

E G........ I think they're trying to be "Hoity Toity" like the world knows Ethylene Glycol........ or to the masses.....ANTIFREEZE But I'm no expert.....maybe it's a secret squirrel code.....

[Jeffw Guru Find all posts View Profile Close Jeffw]

OK, thanks Dave. I prefer "coolant." B)

[HueyCrew Supporting Member Find all posts View Profile Close HueyCrew]

Even better..... since coolant can be either chemical in a closed loop system or raw water flowing in, through and back overboard

[builderdude BOC Site Team Find all posts View Profile Close builderdude]

"Jeffw" post=789806 wrote:
OK, thanks Dave. I uprefer "coolant." B)

"HueyCrew" post=789808 wrote:
Even better..... since coolant can be either chemical in a closed loop system or raw water flowing in, through and back overboard

:lol: You guys so silly :silly: I mistakenly assumed most of the fellas knew what EG meant as it has been used quite often in the tech forum. Yes, coolant would refer to anything that keeps the engine from overheating, however my engine is fitted with a part closed cooled system. Raw water flows through the one side of the system to cool down the EG (ethylene glycol) side and the exhaust. The EG (ethylene glycol) circulates continuously within the closed portion of the engine. Two different types of coolant in my situation.

The reason for the drain valves was to contain any spillage. EG is very toxic, poisonous In fact. It does a great job cooling the engine and keeping corrosion at bay but I don't like the idea of any spilling into the bilge and out the garboard drain where my pup may mistakenly slurp it up.

That could end up very bad :sick:

[Guest Close Guest]

Very smart mod, do you by any chance have a link to where those plugs can be purchased online? or did you make them yourself?

[builderdude BOC Site Team Find all posts View Profile Close builderdude]

"Obi" post=790387 wrote:
Very smart mod, do you by any chance have a link to where those plugs can be purchased online? or did you make them yourself?

Obi, the drain valves I found at Home Depot. They are used for air compressor lines/drains etc. the threaded plugs and threaded hose barbs were also found at the Depot in the plumbing fittings area.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4...00AV/100039901

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chi...1001/202254918

[fritzman Supporting Member Find all posts View Profile Close fritzman]

Dave one more great project, I think you have more time on your hands, but good to copy.

[builderdude BOC Site Team Find all posts View Profile Close builderdude]

"fritzman" post=790780 wrote:
Dave one more great project, I think you have more time on your hands, but good to copy.

Not enough boat fixin time fritz, I've got several items/upgrades sitting in the shop waiting for me to find some time to install. I hope to get to one this weekend :whistle:

[builderdude BOC Site Team Find all posts View Profile Close builderdude]

thought I'd try out this electric head conversion by 5 Oceans.

http://www.five-oceans.com/articulo/...bowl-cover/728

Original pump style Jabsco

Removed the old stuff and mounted the new base, moved it more towards the center of the space. Had to make a run for some sanitation hose and related fittings along with a couple new holes drilled through the bulkhead. The new electric unit uses a 1" discharge hose from the macerator instead of the original 1 1/2" hose the manual head required. I also needed to bring the sea water intake in on the left and discharge to the right (opposite of the manual head) .

All finished and ready for testing, hope it works. Still need to fill the old holes in floor and bulkhead.

Ran the wiring up behind the padded panel and mounted the switch up top.