Modifying your trim anode to fit your lower pitch prop-gctid391517

[Guest]

I have a 2004 Bayliner 175xt. Recently I purchased a Solas Amita 14.5" diameter 17" pitch 4 blade prop. I'm going for a nice torquey hole shot for wakeboarding. Anyways, as some of us have probably found out, the factory trim anode sits too close to the prop blades, and if not addressed the first time you fire up your engine your brand new prop blades will bend on the trim anode. Anyways, just thought I would post my solution to the problem.

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695128=28733-IMAG0094.jpg[/img]This is a picture of the factory trim anode. When placing my new 4 blade prop on the spindle and rotating by hand I can see that the new prop will hit the anode by a good solid 1/8"

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695128=28734-IMAG0095.jpg[/img]First thing I did was take some whiteout and with the blade of the prop touching the anode, I marked off the area necessary to accommodate the prop.

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695128=28735-IMAG0100.jpg[/img]Using a standard dremel tool and cutting wheel I removed a nice chunk of the anode

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695128=28736-IMAG0101.jpg[/img]Using the dremel sanding discs, I evened and smoothed it out

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695128=28737-IMAG0104.jpg[/img]Using some phantom black mercury spray paint, I painted the entire anode gloss black. The standard anode is flat black but I decided to shiny her up a bit.

[Guest]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695130=28738-IMAG0105.jpg[/img]This is the factory image of correct prop installation. Torque calls for a minimum of 55 ft lbs.

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695130=28739-IMAG0106.jpg[/img]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/695130=28740-IMAG0107.jpg[/img]These are a couple pictures of the finished product. If doing this job yourself, make sure when your product is complete there is plenty of clearance between the anode and the blades of the prop. There is a small amount of the play in the spindle shaft the prop sits on, so when power is applied to the prop, it usually pushes backwards a 1/16" or so. Anyways, have fun with your new lower pitch prop.

[Fire Escape]

Your solution should work for the prop clearance. The anode shouldn't be painted. It is designed to be a sacrificial anode, that is, electrolysis should eat it before it eats your prop and/or outdrive. A factory anode is always bare metal.

[Guest]

+1 works for clearance but should NOT be painted

[Guest]

you learn something new every day. i just bought the boat recently and the existing anode was already painted. I guess I will have to get the dremel tool back out and take the paint off. thanks for the heads up.

[Guest]

whitey382 wrote:
you learn something new every day. i just bought the boat recently and the existing anode was already painted. I guess I will have to get the dremel tool back out and take the paint off. thanks for the heads up.

if you have a good mask with carbon filter you can also try M.E.K to wash it off but be careful that you don't strip the outdrive paint with it. I think (THINK!!) the drive is powder coated which means that MEK wouldn't remove it quickly. The spray paint will definitely go with it.

Check other areas of your outdrive for corrosion! If the PO painted it already and had the boat in the water for an extended period of time you may be up to something.

[Fire Escape]

I would suggest removing it from the outdrive when you strip it. It needs to have a good bond with the outdrive to be effective so you will need to strip the back side as well. Good luck, Rick.

[Guest]

I took a dremel tool and sand paper to the trim anode, so the majority of it is now free paint. I need to turn the trim tab to a more neutral position (i think the previous owner had it turned a little too far) so I will remove it and make sure the entire anode is properly clean and clear of paint and residue. Anything special I need to know before I rip the anode off there?

[Guest]

whitey382 wrote:
I took a dremel tool and sand paper to the trim anode, so the majority of it is now free paint. I need to turn the trim tab to a more neutral position (i think the previous owner had it turned a little too far) so I will remove it and make sure the entire anode is properly clean and clear of paint and residue. Anything special I need to know before I rip the anode off there?

Just get it cleaned up and set it up centered, drive boat on plane and see if you get torque steering awhile driving, if you do get a pull to one side point the direction of trim tab towards the pull in small incraments to offset the torque. Do this until you can release the wheel and boat drive stright forward.

[Guest]

I recently purchased a "new to me" Bayliner 175, and the PO had put a 4-blade SS on it. He said the blade clearance was an issue and the "Authorized Mercruiser" tech that installed the prop removed the anode and placed a flad disk (no tab) in it's place. Is this normal? Is this going to provide the protection required? And I am not savvy on the whole steering thing...could this be the reason for mid-throttle hard steering to port?

Thanks!

[Rocky_Road]

08175N8 wrote:
I recently purchased a "new to me" Bayliner 175, and the PO had put a 4-blade SS on it. He said the blade clearance was an issue and the "Authorized Mercruiser" tech that installed the prop removed the anode and placed a flad disk (no tab) in it's place. Is this normal? Is this going to provide the protection required? And I am not savvy on the whole steering thing...could this be the reason for mid-throttle hard steering to port?

Thanks!

The flat anodes are only used with engines that have power steering installed...that explains your port pulling.

There is a very nice Quicksilver performance prop offset anode, made just for your situation:



...get this, and go boating!

[Guest]

Thanks! And to the OP, sorry for the interruption. But looks like you got yours fixed up also

[Guest]

I made this mistake many years ago. I had a shifting propeller and at low speed it was fine, but once it shifted it hit the anode and made a real mess on an $800.00 prop.

[Guest]

Fire Escape wrote:
I would suggest removing it from the outdrive when you strip it. It needs to have a good bond with the outdrive to be effective so you will need to strip the back side as well. Good luck, Rick.

So when I pulled the trim anode, I cleaned both sides of it so it is nice and bare, ready for electrolysis;however, the underside of the outdrive that the trim anode mounts to has paint on it, it looks factory. anyone know whether or not the metal on the outdrive touching the backside of the anode should be bare?

[SomeSailor]

whitey382 wrote:
Anyone know whether or not the metal on the outdrive touching the backside of the anode should be bare?

Anodes work by current flow. That current flows through the bolt that holds it on. You want ALL of the paint on the outdrive intact to seal it from becoming an anode. Never strip for a connection.