Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Origo 2500e Stove Fixed-gctid385047

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Origo 2500e Stove Fixed-gctid385047

    My Origo 2500e Electric/Alcohol Stove started acting up last seasonand finally stopped working altogether. Origo US rep wants almost$300 for a replacement control board. I decided to try and fix itmyself.Here are the front and back pics of the control boards:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/688576=28084-photo 1.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/688576=28085-photo 4.jpg[/img]Apparently two of the four micro switches on the control board went bad.Four new switches was less than $5 including shipping. Below arethe before and after photos of the replaced switches:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/688576=28086-photo 2.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/688576=28087-photo 3.jpg[/img]For reference, here are the internals of one of the bad switches:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/688576=28088-photo 5.jpg[/img]Stove now works perfectly. The admiral is happy!CE

    #2
    What address do you want me to send my board to?

    Only kidding... We have issues about twice a season with ours.

    Nice repair... I'll have to give it a try... what is the source for the new switches?
    Doug ;}
    MMSI: 338068776
    "Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)


    sigpic

    Comment


      #3
      How did you figure out which switches were bad? My stove may have the same issues, it doesn't work either.

      Comment


        #4
        Go Aweigh2452 wrote:
        What address do you want me to send my board to?

        Only kidding... We have issues about twice a season with ours.

        Nice repair... I'll have to give it a try... what is the source for the new switches?
        I got the switches from digikey.com. There is a few suppliers out there. The exact replacement switch is a TL1100AF160Q. I instead got the TL1100F160Q, which was in stock, with the only difference being a 0.5 mm difference in size of the actuator top edge.

        CE

        Comment


          #5
          2859er wrote:
          How did you figure out which switches were bad? My stove may have the same issues, it doesn't work either.
          I took the boards out and tested the switch contacts with a meter. You need to test between the two closest pins on either side of the switch. They are supposed to give a short as soon as the switch clicks. The bad ones did not. You could, however, make them work if you wiggled the actuator quite a bit. This is of course not possible through the key label membrane during actual use. I also made sure that the board actually worked by wiggling the said switches.

          CE

          Comment

          Working...
          X