Fresh water tank fill 3055-gctid366291

[Guest]

one of the members once posted that they switched the plumbing around so they could fill the water tank off the stern intake hose connection? i cant seem to find that post anyone remember how it was done ?

[JimMc]

On our 2004 305 I tee'd into the existing fill hose and installed a Port side water inlet just below the side window forward of the power inlets.

Others have connected into the pressurized side of the water system to be on dockside water when in a well.

Connecting to both fill the tank and supply city water when moored in a marina is possible but would require at least one three way or two 2way valves. You would need to close the valve for filling the tank once the tank is full.

Be sure your tank vent is open so it can vent off pressure.

Also install a regulated inlet as city water pressure is higher than I would want to run to my boats plastic plumbing.

MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL. Turn off the city water when you leave the boat. This is a proven way to sink a boat.

[Guest]

MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL. Turn off the city water when you leave the boat. This is a proven way to sink a boat.

+1 Saved a boat 4 slips from mine an Older carver Mariner from sinking last May. His hot water tank rusted out and he had his garden hose continually running. Boat had about 1 1/2" of water on his floor looking through his sliding door. Shut the water off and jumped on his mid-fly bridge and activated the Bilges.

Called him and sent an email, he was so grateful and pretty much saved his boating season. Anyone else would do it it was just fortunate I noticed itand was on the dock at 11:00 p.m. on a Tuesday.

Good news is he is a certified dive instructor so if I ever drop anything in the water I'll know who to call :-).

Steve

[Guest]

I like the idea of a secondary port side fill ! But isn't that a 1-1/2 " line ? how did you route it ? and did you also vent that line ?

[JimMc]

Port side water inlet

(Remove cabin steps.)

I tee'd into the existing 1-1/2" fill hose under the steps.

(I had to drill a 2" hole with a hole saw at floor level into the cabin wall of the bathroom. The hole is at floor level of the bathroom wall. Aft near the corner where the bathroom wall meets the cabin door bulkhead.)

(Another hole was needed low on the forward mechanical space wall to retrieve the hose from under the head. You will see other hose and pipe at the proper level.)

I then ran the new 1-1/2" hose up from the tee, under the cabin steps toward the bathroom, under the bathroom, under the bathroom floor and back to the mechanical space.

Once in the mechanical space I ran the hose vertically up to the port side location of the new inlet. This is essentially at the same level as the electrical power inlets and a few feet forward.

I then slid my arse over the water heater so I could stand outboard of the water heater in the mechanical space and install the hose to the new inlet. Really

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There was no need to install any new venting. The tank is vented and that's all you need. As you fill the tank with water the air vents out.