Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Dave's transom repair my 2556

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Have to do some searching for that stripper when I'm at that point. Just checked aircraft spruce's website and they don't have it.
    Dave and Cindy Johnson
    Claremont, CA
    1986 Bayliner Trophy 2560, 5.7 Volvo Penta
    1988 Four Winns Horizon 200, 5.7 OMC Cobra

    Comment


      "Indenial" post=565960 wrote:
      Have to do some searching for that stripper when I'm at that point. Just checked aircraft spruce's website and they don't have it.
      From google:

      http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/klea...FQaBfgodVlwA5Q
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        Thank you Dave, adding to the knowledge base here on BOC.

        Not that i personally need to stirp my bottom.


        Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

        1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        Manalapan N.J

        Comment


          Ah Chief, if only my bottom was as clean as yours, I'm jealous! :lol:
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            Finally got a chance to add my extra spacers to the bottom of the fuel tank. I marked the tank so the additional spacer would set directly on top of the outboard fuel tank runners.




            Slid the tank into place and put a Dob of 5200 under the rear set of spacers.




            Mixed up some thickened epoxy and used it to set the fuel tank bulkhead in place.




            Then a coat of epoxy on the engine side of the bulkhead followed by some filleting.




            I hope to get the bulkhead glassed in tomorrow, we'll see.....

            Edit: I guess all my pics won't load :evil: GREMLINS
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              Looks good Dave!

              Comment


                Been cleaning up the corrosion on the gimbal housing and priming with zinc chromate.
                Anyone know what the inside diameter is supposed to be where the raw water hose slips into on the gimbal housing? I had to get fairly aggressive with the Dremel tool and mini wire wheel in there to remove all the corrosion.
                Got the welded repair area all ground out for the transom seal
                Also drilled and sealed with epoxy the 4 holes for the transom scuppers.
                New scuppers dry fit
                Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	297.2 KB
ID:	392547Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	322.9 KB
ID:	392549Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	228.1 KB
ID:	392548


                Couldn't bring myself to purchase the stainless scuppers for the transom. Their not really visible under the swim platform.
                Last edited by builderdude; 11-11-2017, 08:24 PM.
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  Coming along nicely Dave, sorry I can't help with the water inlet ID.
                  1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                  Mike

                  Comment


                    Dave.... a gentle FYI for you.

                    Zinc Chromate primer is intended to be used on bare aluminum (and/or on other non-ferrous materials), and should be a very light coating only.

                    .
                    [CENTER] Rick E. Portland, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Comment


                      "2850Bounty" post=571693 wrote:
                      Dave.... a gentle FYI for you.

                      Zinc Chromate primer is intended to be used on bare aluminum (and/or on other non-ferrous materials), and should be a very light coating only.

                      .
                      Copy that Rick. I guess I was half asleep when I posted :lol: the areas that have the the zinc chromate primer were areas where I had sanded and removed corrosion on the gimbal assembly down to bare aluminum. Yea it does overlap just a touch onto the existing surrounding paint.
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        "Nauti Mike" post=571676 wrote:
                        Coming along nicely Dave, sorry I can't help with the water inlet ID.
                        I guess I'll find out soon enough if the raw water hose will expand enough to make a good seal there. Might use some urethane if I think it's questionable.

                        EDIT: don't use urethane around the hose!! It acts like grease and make tightening the insert impossible without spinning the hose. I ended up cleaning it all off and put it together with bellows adhesive, works much better.
                        Last edited by builderdude; 11-12-2017, 11:27 AM.
                        Dave
                        Edmonds, WA
                        "THE FIX"
                        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                        Misc. projects thread
                        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                        Comment


                          Been working on the engine stringers and the plywood cover over the fuel tank. I don't think Im going to glass PVC drain tubes through the engine stringers. I've made 1 1/4+ half holes at the bottom of the engine stringers and sealed with epoxy and glass before I set them into position. What you guys think?

                          Ive also sealed and set the 2x3 Doug fir structure above the fuel tank. This will support the plywood that covers the tank and I plan to urethane between these and the tank to help hold it in place.

                          Also pre glassed the bottom of the plywood cover.
                          Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	2
Size:	389.2 KB
ID:	392550Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	340.2 KB
ID:	392551Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	314.1 KB
ID:	392552Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	2
Size:	335.3 KB
ID:	392553
                          Last edited by builderdude; 11-11-2017, 08:28 PM.
                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                          Comment


                            I used 1" PVC tubes only as a form for the epoxy putty that I laid them in and then pressed into the voids.

                            I then filled the stringer void with thickened epoxy so it completely encapsulated the pipes.(you can check out the finished product on my post)

                            Your layup is how I would have done them if I was a manufacture trying to do it right from scratch.

                            I did not have to rebuild the stringers, just where the old tubes went through.

                            Comment


                              When I tore the old engine stringers out most of the rot was right at the back few inches of them. There were also several different pieces making up the area around the original drain tubes. It was like they had stuck the drain tubes to the bottom of the hull first and then stuck a small block between the drain tube and the transom flush with the top of the tube then the rear part of the stringer was notched to fit over that (hope that made sense). I decided to do it " my way" , I didn't see the point of multiple pieces of wood when I spent all this time fabricating new stuff.
                              Dave
                              Edmonds, WA
                              "THE FIX"
                              '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                              (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                              Misc. projects thread
                              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                              Comment


                                Mine were done the same way, in pieces. I have decided to forgo limber holes. In my case they were the reason the damage was so pervasive The shower drain was allowed to flow everywhere. Instead I'm sealing each compartment in epoxy and glass. I was going to do foam, but several builders and NA's said that foam and wood together are problematic, any water absorbed by the foam rots the wood faster.
                                1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
                                In over my head for sure!!
                                M/V SKUA refit
                                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...ak-gctid499442

                                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...contessa-refit

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X